oakback
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Post by oakback on May 6, 2019 13:27:42 GMT -8
My jalousie windows have a slant built into the frame, so that when they're upright, any water that gets past the glass can drain out. However, our rear wall is slanted, so rain that gets past the glass can pool and drip inside. I confirmed this with another person who has a trailer like ours, they have the same issue. I'm trying to decide what would be the best solution. I'm thinking an eyebrow over the window would only help with water running off the roof, or above the window. A fabric awning would be susceptible to wind, and we get some pretty crazy afternoon thunderstorms in the summer in Florida. Would fabricating a rear rock guard be a good solution? Wall slant: Window frame slant (in a vertical window, but it's the same in all):
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on May 6, 2019 14:15:53 GMT -8
Have you identified precisely where the water is entering your rear window? I'm assuming you're saying there is leakage when the windows are completely shut? I also have a curved/sloping rear with a 'straight' awning window like yours built into it. I've had no such problem with rain water runoff entering the trailer. What you may have noticed is that virtually all of the window styles for these old trailers, jalousie, awning, etc. were detailed as if they would be installed perfectly vertically... These details are not very effective when the windows are installed on a slope and when the trailer is moving with rain. My front jalousies (a bank of three squares) leak all the time when the rain is coming down and the trailer is hurtling down the road. This is due to the up draft from my tow vehicle, as well as the pressure difference between inside of the trailer and the air movement over the curved front end (think "airplane wing")... even though my jalousies are perfectly set into the frame and as sealed as possible (I installed the jalousie window pane seals from VTS), water gets sucked in through even the tinniest gaps or joints in the old frames. When traveling, I now cover the bank of three in the front with a sheet of clear poly, taped around the perimeter with non marring, duct-style tape. When I get to camp, I rip it all off, until next time I travel in the rain. Off topic, but FYI.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on May 6, 2019 17:12:22 GMT -8
They're completely shut, but I haven't replaced the seals. I'm not sure exactly where it's leaking, it rained overnight and I noticed droplets at the bottom edge inside in the morning.
I'm really glad I have the rock guard on the front, it was absolutely storming on the drive home. Inside was dry.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on May 6, 2019 17:54:39 GMT -8
They're completely shut, but I haven't replaced the seals. I'm not sure exactly where it's leaking, it rained overnight and I noticed droplets at the bottom edge inside in the morning. I'm really glad I have the rock guard on the front, it was absolutely storming on the drive home. Inside was dry. The frames on those awning windows are pretty flexible (read: flimsy)... so check that they are sitting perfectly flat with the frame opening. On my rear awnings, that was the case and one of the lower corners never sat tight even with the crank as tight as possible. Since the frames are that flimsy, the solution was to simply twist the frame very, very carefully until it sat nice and square in the frame. You may also want to inspect the seating seals as you suggest... and replace if necessary.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on May 6, 2019 20:05:12 GMT -8
Also... if you are in a humid climate, condensation on the inside of the window, due to temperature differences, inside and out, can cause droplet and dripping on the inside of a window... but it needs to be pretty extreme for that to happen. But if you park your trailer in shady spot, that can happen for sure.
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Post by vikx on May 6, 2019 20:36:16 GMT -8
Would a snap on marine cover work? Or maybe velcro on. I would think a soft cover would help, especially in windy situations. I doubt new seals will help a lot. Consider an eyebrow to prevent direct drips tho.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on May 7, 2019 2:36:53 GMT -8
Also... if you are in a humid climate, condensation on the inside of the window, due to temperature differences, inside and out, can cause droplet and dripping on the inside of a window... but it needs to be pretty extreme for that to happen. But if you park your trailer in shady spot, that can happen for sure. We are in a very humid climate. We had the a/c running all weekend, there was always condensation, on the outside though. When at home we run a dehumidifier 24/7 in the camper.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on May 7, 2019 2:41:01 GMT -8
Would a snap on marine cover work? Or maybe velcro on. I would think a soft cover would help, especially in windy situations. I doubt new seals will help a lot. Consider an eyebrow to prevent direct drips tho. Maybe I'll do both. Eyebrow, and snap on cover. I just ordered some silpoly to make our awning, if that sewing project goes well I'll likely order a bit more and make a window cover.
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Post by vikx on May 7, 2019 11:00:26 GMT -8
You might be able to remove a some of the window screws for the snaps so you don't have to poke holes in the camper. I would poke a little putty or gutter seal in each hole before re-screwing the snaps in... or those twisty boat keepers. Also, go for marine products, much longer lasting and sturdier.
The type and number of snaps depends on whether you will using the cover on the road or only when camped.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on May 8, 2019 4:51:52 GMT -8
What do you mean by "twisty boat keepers"?
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n2hcky
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Post by n2hcky on May 8, 2019 6:14:38 GMT -8
What do you mean by "twisty boat keepers"? Maybe something like this Twist lock
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 8, 2019 7:34:44 GMT -8
I've thought about this and had you thought about it before the skin went back on you might have been able to use a HEHR push out window which would solve the problem. I don't believe they made one that size though. So it would take quite a bit of remodeling and new skin to do it now. I feel your pain. The 66 Super Shasta had the same problem with a different type of window. A push out would have worked in that situation however I didn't think of it back then.
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