PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Mar 26, 2019 8:31:09 GMT -8
I'm finishing up the subfloor of the Holiday House and getting ready for Marmoleum.
My question is regarding fasteners. I'm using tons of number eight 2" coarse thread exterior screws countersunk to attach the plywood to the floor framing along with carriage bolts. I'll be filling screw/bolt tops with floor leveler and sanding.
Some of the screwheads are close to flush after countersinking and others are 1/8 below the top of the plywood.
Has anyone had issues using screws and having them backout to create problems under flooring?
I'm thinking it's fine but if I didn't have something to worry about with the trailer the day wouldn't be complete ;-)...
Thanks
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Mar 26, 2019 12:26:13 GMT -8
Put some Blue Loctite on the bolts, that will stop the vibration from loosening them and if needed you can still remove it.
Never mind, I totally misread what you are doing. For some reason I was thinking machine screws, not wood screws.
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Post by vikx on Mar 26, 2019 21:25:13 GMT -8
Any divots will show, even if it's only a slight bump over a screw head so be sure everything is level.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Mar 27, 2019 7:47:34 GMT -8
Slightly unrelated:
I like using these fasteners connecting subfloor to the frame. |
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Mar 27, 2019 8:17:55 GMT -8
Any divots will show, even if it's only a slight bump over a screw head so be sure everything is level. You can use filler over the screws and then sand it down smooth. I have tons of that to do my boat project before painting. Everyone recommends Famowood filler. It is supposed to be very similar to what was used on my Chris and I am pulling otu 50 year old filler that is as good as it was new. Supposed to dry very hard and sand down easy. if it will stand up to a boat it should work great on a camper. |
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Mar 27, 2019 12:04:24 GMT -8
Yep - the next couple days are dedicated to filling and sanding countersunk screws and other imperfections to get things level for flooring!
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Post by littlecamperchic on Jan 3, 2021 9:40:18 GMT -8
Any recommendations on what type of (or brand) of floor leveler is the best to use? I have just laid a section of new plywood flooring in the rear end of my ‘66 Aristocrat. I used 5/8” plywood but after putting in new carriage bolts and tightening them all down, there is a pretty significant height difference between the two sections of flooring.Everything appeared nice and level before tightening down those carriage bolts and I’m fairly sure that loosening those is NOT an option. Or is it?
Any recommendations would be helpful.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 3, 2021 10:40:23 GMT -8
Any recommendations on what type of (or brand) of floor leveler is the best to use? I have just laid a section of new plywood flooring in the rear end of my ‘66 Aristocrat Land Commander. I used 5/8” plywood but after putting in new carriage bolts and tightening them all down, there is a pretty significant height difference between the two sections of flooring. I’m thinking I will need also need to subfloor over the new plywood in order the help with the leveling. Everything appeared nice and level before tightening down those carriage bolts and i know that loosening those is NOT an option. Any recommendations would be helpful. Here's a couple of thoughts. Any difference in floor height will show through you flooring material. Does not matter, high, or low spots will show. You mentioned 5/8" plywood? Is this exactly the same thickness that was used on the rest of the trailer? Is it just a patched area that is different? I would recommend a "glued, and screwed" poplar cleat under any and all plywood floor seams. It will hold the flooring surface flat. After the glue dries, use a 36 grit belt sander to level the subfloor out. Make sure all of the screw heads are countersunk at least 1/16", then use auto body filler (Bondo is a cheap brand of filler, any brand will do) to fill all of the plywood seams, and all of the screw heads. Just mix a small amount at a time, and work your way across the floor. The filler kicks off very quickly, so work a small area until you gain experience on how much working time you have. One gallon (less than $20) is more than enough to do a 25 foot trailer. Sand the filler with the same 36 grit belt. Wear a respirator, the dust is very fine. John |
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Post by littlecamperchic on Jan 3, 2021 12:08:22 GMT -8
Thanks John! And yes, the new plywood is the same thickness as the old. That’s part of why I’m wondering if I did tighten those carriage bolts too tightly. It had been suggested to just “snug them down good” but I gave it a bit more after that. Lol. I know it’s vital to have good connection with the the chassis and the flooring. Thanks for the advice on the filler. I wasn’t sure what kind to use.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Jan 4, 2021 7:55:40 GMT -8
Anyone else on here ever used "Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty"? I've used it for years on various house repairs. It's a powdered polymer based product, you activate by adding water. The drying process can be slowed down by using a little bit of milk. Dries very hard, sands like bondo. It can be drilled etc. Much less messy than bondo. Water proof when fully cured.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Jan 4, 2021 19:28:16 GMT -8
Anyone else on here ever used "Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty"? I've used it for years on various house repairs. It's a powdered polymer based product, you activate by adding water. The drying process can be slowed down by using a little bit of milk. Dries very hard, sands like bondo. It can be drilled etc. Much less messy than bondo. Water proof when fully cured. Didn't recognize the name until I did an online search and saw a picture of it. Well heaven's yes I've seen that around, should be good for leveling out floor before covering. Whitney |
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 6, 2021 21:22:01 GMT -8
I would recommend a "glued, and screwed" poplar cleat under any and all plywood floor seams. It will hold the flooring surface flat. After the glue dries, use a 36 grit belt sander to level the subfloor out. Make sure all of the screw heads are countersunk at least 1/16", then use auto body filler (Bondo is a cheap brand of filler, any brand will do) to fill all of the plywood seams, and all of the screw heads. Just mix a small amount at a time, and work your way across the floor. The filler kicks off very quickly, so work a small area until you gain experience on how much working time you have. One gallon (less than $20) is more than enough to do a 25 foot trailer. Sand the filler with the same 36 grit belt. Wear a respirator, the dust is very fine. John Here is what John is talking about with the poplar cleat. I used his method to help support my floor. 
Here is another view
Cheers,
Rod
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Jan 16, 2021 5:27:31 GMT -8
Durhams is great for houses that don't move. I'd be hesitant to use it in a trailer due to vibration. It will likely crack and cause problems under the flooring.
I think Bondo might work better, at least over screws. Not so much for seams again due to flexing and vibration.
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adderall
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Post by adderall on Feb 23, 2021 12:48:35 GMT -8
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