SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 7, 2013 13:39:22 GMT -8
Hard words for me to say. I'm trying to replace the boards on the frame that the floor sits on. They are bolted at each end. Are they nailed, screwed to the floor in between? I don't want to tear up my floor trying to get them out. I was going to just shore them up by adding one next to them, but I split one pulling screws out. Half of it is still attached to the floor, not the frame. Ughh! I know they needed to be replaced to start with. Hubby just wouldn't go for it. Now he's gone and I'm doing it!! image by susieqilvu, on Flickr
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 7, 2013 13:42:50 GMT -8
And Mobiltec, if there's a video, just point me in the right direction. I know how to put it back in, i just can't get the darn thing out!!!! I really wish I had torn the whole thing apart and put it back together. I would have to be easier!!!
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 7, 2013 13:53:12 GMT -8
And I apologize, but I didn't know what to call this thread. And here is what it actually looks like now. image by susieqilvu, on Flickr
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Dec 7, 2013 16:08:30 GMT -8
Does that run crosswise the width of the trailer, or is it lengthworthy? Not that it matters a lot...I am not certain as to your original question. I believe they were bolted in the frame with the long bolts at the ends, with no other attachment to the floor boards. I sure would not bet my last dollar on it, but I think they are just wedged in and the resistance you are getting is just years of gravity fighting against you.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 7, 2013 16:24:16 GMT -8
My only floor replacement videos are of the front and rear of the 57 Shasta. You might want to look there. They are listed on the website.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 7, 2013 19:08:52 GMT -8
10, that's what I was thinking, and yes they run lengthwise but these are just from the front to the fender. I'll explain my pic better in few minutes with a diagram. (Have to go get everything covered up before the snow gets here in a couple of hours.) I just didn't want to force them loose if they were screwed in because I don't want to replace my floor. My floor is in very good shape. I really don't want to damage it.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Dec 7, 2013 20:07:13 GMT -8
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 7, 2013 21:04:26 GMT -8
That's exactly what I needed to know! Now I can just pry it loose. I was going to do what you did, 61, until I busted it.
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Post by vikx on Dec 7, 2013 22:36:47 GMT -8
Thanks 61! You saved me from hunting thru my photos...
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 8, 2013 0:10:29 GMT -8
I thank you all for your help. I'm going to have to chronicle this adventure in a blog, I suppose. I think 61's framing boards on the curved part are beefier than mine. These framing boards were toe-nailed together and attached only to the birch plywood and the back framing slats were toe-nailed to them. It's not going back together like that, btw. Jiggety jig!! Mine image by susieqilvu, on Flickr 61's I have the back end torn out of mine, just not the floor and benches and my water tank has was removed by PO. I have all the wood cut to put the sides and backend back together. Just gotta' get the joists under the floor taken care of. Now stalled by the weather.
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TheShastaProject
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Post by TheShastaProject on Jan 5, 2014 13:13:52 GMT -8
Saved me from asking a question. I'm facing a similar situation. Floor is good but the joists under it are rotted at the corners. Trying to figure out what has to be replaced and what won't matter. Thanks for the photos everyone!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2014 14:33:57 GMT -8
Saved me from asking a question. I'm facing a similar situation. Floor is good but the joists under it are rotted at the corners. Trying to figure out what has to be replaced and what won't matter. Thanks for the photos everyone! A metal cutting sawzall blade will slip inbetween the rotted framing and the metal cross ties where the carriage bolts are. The floor will be tacked into the framing as well so run the same blade in between the floor and the joists.
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Post by vikx on Jan 5, 2014 21:19:29 GMT -8
I found some awesome blades for my Multimaster, by Imperial. They are hardened and actually cut nails and such. You know how little nails can be in the oddest places... (sawzall would be better on bolts of course)
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jan 5, 2014 21:49:26 GMT -8
Saved me from asking a question. I'm facing a similar situation. Floor is good but the joists under it are rotted at the corners. Trying to figure out what has to be replaced and what won't matter. Thanks for the photos everyone! A metal cutting sawzall blade will slip inbetween the rotted framing and the metal cross ties where the carriage bolts are. The floor will be tacked into the framing as well so run the same blade in between the floor and the joists. The sawzall will work just fine. We had the same issue with Hamlet and used a sawzall to get those pesky bolts out. Gave us a great opportunity to see the inside of the local Emergency Room, too!
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 6, 2014 4:45:55 GMT -8
Annnddd....if you have a sawzall from Harbor Freight, you do not need a table...........
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