kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Jan 10, 2019 9:56:28 GMT -8
Oakback, one last opinion if I may. My Scotty has 1/2" plywood walls period. No 1X or 2X on the vertical sides. I had the same problem as you and solved it with 5/8 hex pan head wood screws. My plywood was new, as is all the other wood since Scotty was a frame up rebuild. I got the screws at McMaster, very reasonable, and I only use stainless so I will never again have to deal with thousands of rusty screw heads. On the windows, doors etc, the screws go in after painting the skins, and all perimeter screws will get replaced with fresh ones. I think all the previous messages are telling us that many different approaches have been used, just as original trailer mfgs used an assortment of fasteners. I did something similar to your idea of buying a few each of several styles to find what works best for your particular need.I also found that if I was done using power tool for the day A chilled bottle of Shiner Bock always put a smile back on this old face. Make it fun.
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Post by vikx on Jan 10, 2019 11:44:23 GMT -8
Different screws were used in different eras. I try to use what was there. Many early 60s and later trailers used hex head screws. Most were 1" because the flange w/putty takes up the extra in a 3/4 wall. The hex heads I've bought have been fine for wood, they seem to have a depth of thread that works well.
Early 50s trailers had slot head screws which I never try to duplicate. Too many blisters removing to try and replace. I suppose a true "restoration" would require them. Today's screws don't even have the same heads, slotted or not.
Most of my 50s trailers have #6 pan head screws, either 3/4 or 1". Any old holes are filled and glued before exterior goes on, so they are like new wood. If the screws spin, I use a longer one, so you are on the right track.
Please no more snarky comments...
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jan 10, 2019 11:58:04 GMT -8
Oakback, one last opinion if I may. My Scotty has 1/2" plywood walls period. No 1X or 2X on the vertical sides. I had the same problem as you and solved it with 5/8 hex pan head wood screws. My plywood was new, as is all the other wood since Scotty was a frame up rebuild. I got the screws at McMaster, very reasonable, and I only use stainless so I will never again have to deal with thousands of rusty screw heads. On the windows, doors etc, the screws go in after painting the skins, and all perimeter screws will get replaced with fresh ones. I think all the previous messages are telling us that many different approaches have been used, just as original trailer mfgs used an assortment of fasteners. I did something similar to your idea of buying a few each of several styles to find what works best for your particular need.I also found that if I was done using power tool for the day A chilled bottle of Shiner Bock always put a smile back on this old face. Make it fun. Thanks! Is "hex pan head screw" the same as " internal hex button-head cap screw "?
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Post by youngbloodhawk on Jan 10, 2019 13:12:42 GMT -8
FWIW
Still Your problem has nothing to do with what type head you are using. It’s obvious that the thread pitch and wood density are not compatible in your particular case. I read your previous thread and caught that you would be using sheet metal screws because they would self tap in aluminum. Wood screws will also at least in my new J rail. Strip torque with wood screws in Wood, any wood is universally greater.
Pick up a $6 100 piece package of round head philips 1” wood screws from Home Depot in maybe # 6 and 8s to experiment With. Again FWIW
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Jan 11, 2019 15:05:42 GMT -8
Simple answer is drive some in the some scrap and try to pull them out. See if the hold or not.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jan 16, 2019 5:45:17 GMT -8
Turns out I'm an idiot and the original screws were fine. I was using a 1/4" drive socket from an automotive tool set, with an adapter on my impact driver, and the socket itself had rounded out inside after just a few screws, but somehow could still drive the screws most of the way in, leading me to believe the screws were spinning. I got a proper 1/4" driver bit and the #6 screws are working great.
Something I noticed though while testing different screws (before I realized my error), the stainless steel #6 hex head sheet metal screws are working great, but the zinc-plated #8 phillips head wood screws strip real easily (the head, not the threads). It doesn't take much effort at all with my 20v impact driver to completely round out the head, before I could tighten a window frame enough to squeeze putty. Granted this driver is probably overkill, but maybe my observation could be helpful to someone in the future.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jan 16, 2019 6:26:36 GMT -8
I'm glad you found an answer to the problem. It's usually the simple things we think of last.
I like the stainless steel screws better but I'm told them don't hold the primer/paint as well as zinc.
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dragonwagons
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Polish
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Post by dragonwagons on Jan 19, 2019 12:04:57 GMT -8
If you go up to an #8 you can get them in a white painted head.
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ozmo
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Peeling a fresh 59 Airflyte today.
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Shasta airflyte
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Post by ozmo on Feb 6, 2019 21:20:10 GMT -8
OK so the new guy got a little beaten up. He is a nice guy and I am learning from his post/questions. Overall this is a very friendly/helpful/ informative website. We can have a little fun too. SO I am about to buy bulk screws somewhere. I like Torx head personally. Ten wrote these numbers..."I would (personally speaking) order about 1200- 1500 #8 X 3/4 stainless pan head Phillips, and about 100 #10 X 3/4 stainless pan Phillips." Are these quantities about right for a Shasta Airflyte off frame new skin restoration? I know, it REALLY is a screwy question Bwahahaha.
ALSO what screws are youins using for pocket screws for framing?
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 7, 2019 5:36:46 GMT -8
One more thing concerning screws.. when attaching windows and doors, if you are using a screwgun, stop driving the screw a little bit before it's all the way seated; if you shoot the screw in tight you'll leave a bend in the aluminum in the window or door frame. Do the final few turns with a regular screwdriver, and tighten just till you see the putty tape scooch out a bit. That's a mobiltec tip from years ago.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 7, 2019 7:00:57 GMT -8
For 3/4 inch thick framing I use one inch long number 8 pan head screws.
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