SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 6, 2013 8:44:58 GMT -8
Hey Mobiltec, I've spent hours watching your other videos, so give me some credit here. I'm pretty much a learn by doing kind of person. But I have to admit, I've gotten some really good insight here as what to expect and how to address the common issues. I was going to put everything back exactly like it was, but I have come to realize that some of the original craftsmanship leaves something to be desired. Improvements are a good thing.
And about Sabrina, of course she's spunky, she's blonde, and we all know blondes have more fun.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 6, 2013 9:07:35 GMT -8
They do when they are with me. That's for sure!
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Post by kto17 on Dec 6, 2013 9:59:36 GMT -8
They do when they are with me. That's for sure! I'm going to have to remember that line!
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Post by bigbill on Dec 6, 2013 10:38:23 GMT -8
They do when they are with me. That's for sure! I don't know how you can prove that but my blonde has hung around for almost 50 years so she must not be too unhappy.
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Dec 6, 2013 11:12:14 GMT -8
Is shellac the same as poly urethane?
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 6, 2013 11:17:33 GMT -8
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newmexicogal
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Post by newmexicogal on Dec 6, 2013 15:59:21 GMT -8
Dumb question alert: I HAVE watched Mobiltec's videos about shellac but one question I have that I didn't understand by watching them or reading threads on this site was this. What do I use for the tack rag? Do I use a little shellac on a cloth to pick up the errant bits of sawdust? I googled tack cloths and it seems like that's what's happening but I want to make sure that the medium I'm supposed to use is shellac or denatured alcohol or ? Amazon Prime delivered shellac today. I'm going to try my first test piece tomorrow. . . TIA!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 6, 2013 16:15:55 GMT -8
Actually I never thought of that. It might work great! A tack rag is just to get the dust off before applying another coat. Especially if you sand.
Warning on sanding. Don't sand until your 3rd coat and ONLY if you think you need to. When you get the hang of applying shellac you will find you don't need to sand at all anymore. You should do one light sand job with 220 on bare wood before starting though. Then if you get the coats on smooth enough and just kind of lightly wipe it down with a rag and denatured alcohol you should be fine for the next coat.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 6, 2013 16:23:37 GMT -8
I sanded the bare wood with 220, brushed it off and then I wiped it down with a smooth damp cotton cloth. I did sand very lightly between my first and second coat as per directions on the can and wiped it down the same way. I had no problem with any residue, only a strand of long blonde hair, lol. My DNA will be permanently preserved.
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Post by bigbill on Dec 6, 2013 17:15:07 GMT -8
You can buy tack cloths at the paint store or about any place else. they are pretreated with I think beeswax to attract the dust. You just wipe very lightly.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 6, 2013 18:49:27 GMT -8
I used to sand the first coat and found it was too easy to go through. Then someone said I might as well wait till coat number three. I tried it and liked the outcome. Lot's of different ways of doing it though and that is part of the fun. Where I had problems with sanding was on the rounded surfaces. Front and rear radius and cabinets that have rounded corners.
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Dec 7, 2013 6:21:44 GMT -8
I am quite aways from working on my interior (as all I have now is the frame), however I've been doing a little reading and research. Has anyone used lauan and can you achieve the same type of glossy amber look as you do with birch? I bought a piece of this yesterday to experiment along with Zinnser amber shellac. The lauan is a third the price of birch.
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Post by vikx on Dec 7, 2013 22:34:23 GMT -8
Amber shellac gives most woods a shiny look. It will darken on the mahogany quite a bit but it's still quite pretty. (I sand the 2nd coat and the 3rd is usually the last-depends on how dark you want to go)
Luan is usually used for subfloor. The mahogany is really thin so don't sand it very much...
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gonekayaking
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Post by gonekayaking on Dec 8, 2013 8:19:25 GMT -8
That's the issue I have with Luan, the veneer is very thin, and the surface is fairly rough compared to birch. That's because it's meant to have a tooth for glue on top of it to use for the finish floor. There's a reason it's 1/3 the price. A hardwood panel meant for being a finished surface is going to be much much smoother to begin with and need just a light sanding before applying shellac or other finish. If you are replacing all of the interior wood, and you want a darker look, this may be fine, I might go with the clear shellac though as the luan will darken considerably.
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newmexicogal
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Post by newmexicogal on Dec 8, 2013 13:40:18 GMT -8
OK, I've been intimidated about starting the shellac, after watching all of Mobiltec's videos and reading the threads on this forum. I decided to try just wiping it on, like a stain. The first couple of coats look pretty good. So far there's been no runs or streaks. I read a description of "padding" here: woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/p/Shellac.htm but it just sounded too complicated so I'm just using a piece of muslin folded up and a pair of rubber gloves. SuzieQ, have you tried this technique? Mobiltec, your thoughts about wiping it on with a piece of cloth vs using a brush?
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