oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 19, 2018 5:46:35 GMT -8
Long story short, after installing brand new skins on our build and cutting out the hole for the door, and the electric sheet metal shears went where they weren't supposed to. These shears cut out about a 1/4" strip of metal.
I was outside, trying to follow the side of the door frame with the shears, and usually I ride the end of the wood with the bottom of the shears (worked great for trimming the outside edges, which were already stapled down), but lifted the metal off the surface and didn't realize it until it was too late (door frame edges weren't stapled down yet). I cut a long line upward just outside the edge of the door, and a bit too high above the door frame, before I realized what was happening.
Please spare me your hindsight lessons, I know where I went wrong, and I'm looking for the best method for repair.
Some of the gash will be covered by the door frame. But above the door the cut portion is exposed. I have some cut-off pieces I can use. Is the best option to simply patch it with a rectangular piece? If so, what's the best way to seal the edges? I'm thinking apply the patch with epoxy glue, and seal the edges with lap sealant.
Open to other suggestions. Except for "remove it all and buy new pieces", that's out of the question.
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jeremiah
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Post by jeremiah on Dec 19, 2018 6:37:58 GMT -8
Add a piece of trim or gutter or enlarged bracket so that it does not look like a mistake. Good luck
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 19, 2018 7:22:08 GMT -8
Thanks. I'll get a pic up later.
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n2hcky
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Post by n2hcky on Dec 19, 2018 7:28:26 GMT -8
Maybe if you add in a patch to cover the area then an "eyebrow" drip cap could hide the patch.
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Post by vikx on Dec 19, 2018 23:25:38 GMT -8
Use a patch but slip it up UNDER the metal where the cut is and fit to the door. That will improve the integrity above the door.
I would then cut an extra piece of metal to fit from the door to the roof and about 2 inches wider than the door width. (Try to place each end over wood framing) Carefully curl the metal at each end to make a finished edge. With pure butyl putty to seal the ends, place this patch over the mistake and patch. You may have to add extra putty in any dips or brakes in the metal. Once this metal is in place, you can staple at the top and above the door. Use very thin butyl at the top or bottom, if at all. The J rail will cover the top and the door the bottom.
Measure for the eyebrow above the doors and screws. Once you know where that will go, a single screw in each end with secure your camouflage ends. You must be absolutely sure the butyl will fill all gaps above the door. As a final seal, you can smooth a very thin layer of OSI gutter seal at the door edge. Smooth with a paint thinner dipped finger.
Note: Do not use lap sealant on anything but new roof projections. It will not re-seal, nor be tough enough to last. It can be touched up, as it sticks to itself but is not for permanent work.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 20, 2018 7:47:18 GMT -8
Here's the pic, you can see the edge of the door opening, and how far from the top it is (the top is already trimmed flush). There are no studs, this is all against plywood, so I've got that working for me. I don't have any scrap that's as wide as the door opening AND as tall as the gash (to create a uniform/symmetrical patch around/above the door). I have a piece that's wide enough to cover the area above the door and about 2" wider, and I have a piece that's long enough to cover the gash but only about 6" wide. I like the idea of folding the patch edges under to create that finished look. We don't have eyebrows. The original camper never did, and we weren't planing on purchasing any. Is there a practical reason for those, or is it just a style choice? Thanks for all your input so far! I'm sure you can imagine, this has been a bad blow to our progress. edit: wow eyebrows are a lot cheaper than I thought, I might have to at least get one for the door.
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Dec 20, 2018 9:56:38 GMT -8
Could you fabricate a flat piece of aluminum similar to the door frame a inch or so wider and make it in three pieces wide enough to recreate the door opening, then install the door channel to overlap the new opening.
Use heaver aluminum than the siding. Danny
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 20, 2018 11:09:57 GMT -8
Great idea! Depending on the width needed (I haven't taken exact measurements yet), I might even be able to find some appropriate flat stock off the shelf.
If I went this route, should the new wider trim go under the door flange, flush with the door opening cutout (and share mount holes with the door frame)?
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Dec 20, 2018 13:15:26 GMT -8
I would think it would depend on how it's done, I'm just thinking outside the box but my original thought was to install the strips first and then the door but having given it a little more thought it might have a cleaner appearance butted up to the door flange, ether way I think it would solve your problem. Danny
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Post by vikx on Dec 20, 2018 20:27:34 GMT -8
Wow, that's a tall gash... Hmmmm. If you don't have a big enough piece to cover the area over the door, there's a couple of things you might do: You could complete the gash. Some trailers use an H piece to seam an area like this. Another thought is a piece of trim over the gash after you seal it. I would put the 6" piece under the gash, making sure to match to the trailer pattern. Staple the skin around the door to hold everything in place.
At the door edge OSI gutter seal would work at the crooked cut. An eyebrow will cover part of the gash, so there will only be about 4" showing.
I've got some pictures of patches I've done. PM me for my email address.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 21, 2018 4:38:27 GMT -8
Thanks! To give some more perspective, this square is lines up with the corner of the door opening.
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debranch
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Post by debranch on Dec 21, 2018 5:55:56 GMT -8
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jeremiah
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Post by jeremiah on Dec 21, 2018 7:23:14 GMT -8
Buy a bigger door or a new piece of siding ?
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Dec 21, 2018 8:30:54 GMT -8
Buy a bigger door or a new piece of siding ? We have a cabinet immediately next to the door, so a wider door wouldn't be possible, even if I had access to one. It was hard enough finding a used door local to me in any size! A new 16' piece of siding and having it shipped California to Florida is more cost than we're able to bear any time soon. Purchasing this siding cost more than the rest of our camper build combined. Not being able to find a source for siding anywhere in the Southeast US for a better price put us way over budget already. The next best thing we could find was flat aluminum with no joints or auto edge, and no local shops that could roll patterns or joints.
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Dec 21, 2018 12:39:06 GMT -8
I completely understand you not wanting to lay out more cash having new siding shipped.
It really shouldn't be too difficult to make a suitable repair,heck you could 45 the joints around the top of your door with the flat aluminum, to add a nice visual look you could give it a polish and it just might look factory. Danny
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