theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Sept 5, 2018 12:52:20 GMT -8
For those of you who replaced or added 110 electrical outlets or lights, what did you use?? I bought a bunch of the blue Carlon brand shallow wall boxes from Lowe's, but when I held them in place, the seem like they'll protrude out VERY far beyond my framing? So I compared it with the two originals I have and they're about 1/8" or more deeper than the originals. The depth of the INSIDE of the original box is exactly an inch. All of the others I have found online are 1 1/8" interior depth (1 1/4" over depth). Won't this interfere with the fitment of the skins? Am I overthinking this? This is the Lowe's Carlon Brand box: 2018-09-05_04-20-54 by t_in_maine, on Flickr Original Box: 2018-09-05_04-21-23 by t_in_maine, on Flickr Side-by-Side comparison: 2018-09-05_04-32-46 by t_in_maine, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Sept 5, 2018 21:41:36 GMT -8
The new boxes won't work and yes, they will interfere with the skins. Place all boxes in cabinets if at all possible. You can use the old box, but BE CAREFUL. It really is too shallow for today's wiring (14/2 only!).
If I were doing it, I would build out at the wall side to accommodate the new boxes. (they are low voltage boxes, so don't over-do the wiring) In other words, put a shim on the inside to make the boxes flush. Your outlet covers will also stick out a bit.
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theresa
1K Member
from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 347
Currently Offline
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Post by theresa on Sept 6, 2018 4:07:22 GMT -8
The new boxes won't work and yes, they will interfere with the skins. Place all boxes in cabinets if at all possible. You can use the old box, but BE CAREFUL. It really is too shallow for today's wiring (14/2 only!). If I were doing it, I would build out at the wall side to accommodate the new boxes. (they are low voltage boxes, so don't over-do the wiring) In other words, put a shim on the inside to make the boxes flush. Your outlet covers will also stick out a bit. Good info, thanks!
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Post by danrhodes on Sept 6, 2018 6:10:57 GMT -8
I was thinking if you absolutely had to have them in a wall, you could make a decorative frame out of 1/4" birch in a design that mirrors the cabinet cutouts or other feature. At least the plate would sit flush.
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
Posts: 1,055
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Post by theresa on Sept 6, 2018 6:16:02 GMT -8
In thinking this through this AM, I will place an original box on the front above the dinette table for a simple plug in. I will put a light in the cabinet above the dinette as was originally there, the depth of that won't matter as it's hidden in the cabinet. I will put the 2nd original box I have on the side wall above the bed for a reading light. I will put a box in the curb-side cabinet to plug in the fridge and a TV, and I will build out a box from the wall between the two cabinets to put a light over the sink, similar to the box that the gas lamp mounts to in the front. I'd also like to place another plug-in somewhere in my kitchen for coffee maker, etc., so I'll have to dig around and see if there's room anywhere in the kitchenette cabinet for that. Thanks again vikx
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Post by vikx on Sept 6, 2018 9:28:03 GMT -8
Put an "old work" box in the upper K cabinet, running off the light. You can do the same in the front.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/44516082851/in/dateposted-public/" title="040 m Canasta Cabinet Wiring (2)"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1849/44516082851_bce5943055.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="040 m Canasta Cabinet Wiring (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Note the box above doesn't show the wing/clamps. Today's old work boxes are blue as well.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/29578585497/in/dateposted-public/" title="040 m Canasta Cabinet Wiring (3)"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1876/29578585497_0a425f9a26.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="040 m Canasta Cabinet Wiring (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
These boxes can be placed almost anywhere as long as there are backers to support the 'wings' that anchor the box. You can also surface mount in unseen areas such as the dinette (maintainer) or closet.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/43798441224/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 g Electrical (5)"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1882/43798441224_6e34a087f7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="006 g Electrical (5)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Sept 8, 2018 16:14:24 GMT -8
For those of you who replaced or added 110 electrical outlets or lights, what did you use?? I bought a bunch of the blue Carlon brand shallow wall boxes from Lowe's, but when I held them in place, the seem like they'll protrude out VERY far beyond my framing? So I compared it with the two originals I have and they're about 1/8" or more deeper than the originals. The depth of the INSIDE of the original box is exactly an inch. All of the others I have found online are 1 1/8" interior depth (1 1/4" over depth). Won't this interfere with the fitment of the skins? Am I overthinking this? Teresa: I had the same dilemma. I did this to fix: made a frame for the boxes out of 1/4" birch left over from my build. It came out good- and I am happy! IMG_4426 by kathy, on Flickr IMG_4427 by kathy, on Flickr IMG_4428 by kathy, on Flickr
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