coldham
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1954 Terry
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Post by coldham on Nov 26, 2013 20:13:45 GMT -8
I am curious what you all suggest for a belly replacement. My trailer originally had celotex but it was damaged in a few places and I tore most of it out. I wish I just replaced the damaged areas and left the undamaged stuff alone but it's too late for that.
From my reading it looks like a metal pan is likely to trap moisture. I have a source for large sheets of plastic like coroplast or ABS but I'm sure that will act just like the metal pan. What if it was vented?
The sound board at home depot looks like it would decentrigrate once water hits it but I've seen some trailer builders that I trust use it and recommend it. Is there a consensus that it holds up ok?
What about ACX with a coating of fence paint/undercoating/or ?.
I've also seen some fabrics like tyvek for sale at rv websites.
So what did you all use? What is holding up and what isn't?
Thanks!
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Post by vikx on Nov 26, 2013 22:05:53 GMT -8
I'm still in the experimenting stage...
No metal, the rot is unbelievable. That said, any totally sealed belly would tend to hold moisture. I think metal sweats and just makes things worse.
What I've found:
1. Plywood, either undercoated or with a layer of roof paper on the underside. This type of floor generally doesn't have the insulation cavity that framed floors do.
2. Celotex. When it's in good shape, I like it. If the trailer is in fair condition and the bolts tight, it adds some insulating qualities along with protecting the floor framing. It's always undercoated. The Home Depot sound board might work if properly sealed. The joists must be bolted tightly thru to the frame to give a good attachment because it tends to give.
3. Masonite. I recently tried this and really like it. I coated the rough side with black roof sealer (it's not the asphalt thick stuff, more liquid) I made sure to seam it at a joist and screwed it in place.The seam was sealed. Mine was 1/8 to keep the weight down, the trailer had 3/16 originally. Insulated with rigid foam, which provided support, the 1/8 is surprisingly sturdy. Time will tell.
4. Coroplast. This is a plastic "cardboard" like material used on modern big fivers. (5th wheels) I used it on my 53 Hanson. It worked well, but I'm concerned that it may be too well sealed.
5. Also used in modern trailers is a woven black weather resistant sheet. It seems to work but is cloth-like and will rip. RV stores sell special tape to patch it.
I think the main thing is to protect the trailer from the elements and still allow it to breathe. Metal is out but the rest are certainly worth a try.
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coldham
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1954 Terry
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Post by coldham on Dec 3, 2013 19:53:46 GMT -8
I am leaning toward acx with a waterproof coating. I even bought the acx but while I was the lumber yard I saw a product called newwood its a composite 50% plastic 50% wood. It's 3 times more water resistant than osb. Has anyone used this for anything? Should I volunteer to be the ginny pig? It's 50 bucks a sheet and kinda heavy but it might be worth it if it would hold up under the trailer. www.totalplastics.com/assets/NewWood_FAQ.pdf |
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Post by vikx on Dec 3, 2013 22:22:53 GMT -8
I would not go with anything too heavy... These trailers were designed to be a certain weight, so too much extra could cause poor towing behavior.
I've thought about plastic decking, but the weight is just too much...
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coldham
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Post by coldham on Dec 3, 2013 23:12:39 GMT -8
It looks like newwood would add approximately 40lbs to a 12ft trailer over the acx ply. I'm thinking in terms of how much fishing gear I would have to leave behind to make up for the 40lbs I gained in water resistant wood... Too much.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 3, 2013 23:16:09 GMT -8
Coldham, I've been following your thread and wasn't sure about the term "Belly Pan" and hope on the right track here but check out these products mobilehomedepotmi.com/mh_catalog1/underbellyvapor.htmlMy teardrop has a nylon woven-looking material for a vapor barrier underneath the plywood floor and between the walls. It works rather well. The Flex Mend roll stuff description in the link above sounds similar. |
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Post by bigbill on Dec 4, 2013 2:58:38 GMT -8
A bellypan usually refers to a metal skin installed under the bottom of something such as a car or trailer to protect it from stuff flying up from the bottom, such as water,salt,ect. They were also used to make things have less wind drag at speed.
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Post by bigbill on Dec 4, 2013 2:59:37 GMT -8
I am replacing most parts with materials much like what Shasta used. My thoughts are it lasted 45 years the first time and with modern coatings it should last longer. Buy the time it is 100 years old it will probably fall apart from metal deterioration or some other problem we aren't seeing now, and I won't be here to see it any how.  |
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Post by bigbill on Dec 4, 2013 3:06:52 GMT -8
I can see the board now, 50 years from now the topic will be I wonder why some parts where held together with staples while others used kreg screws. The reply: Yes I noticed that and my buddies Shasta has 2" x 3/4 Boards everywhere and mine has a mixture of 2", 4", 6", and 8" x 3/4 boards it just doesn't make any sense.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Dec 8, 2013 4:20:24 GMT -8
But the furnace still works!
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gonekayaking
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Post by gonekayaking on Dec 8, 2013 8:26:33 GMT -8
If you can get some insulation it will really help. I like the masonite and rigid foam sandwich idea. I used plywood subfloor and then the bottom homasote with flashing membrane under, then recoated the original that I left in place (middle of the trailer)with the asphalt paint.
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Post by bigbill on Dec 9, 2013 17:58:13 GMT -8
But the furnace still works! Yes and he found the owners manual in the drawer. |
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Dec 12, 2013 7:40:37 GMT -8
But the furnace still works! Yes and he found the owners manual in the drawer. Hehe, the owner's manual and all the appliance manuals were in a drawer in mine. |
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