oakback
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Post by oakback on Aug 3, 2018 10:51:36 GMT -8
I'm pretty much building a new camper (frame/windows/wheels are original, that's it). Very soon I'll be starting on my electrical.
If you could redo your whole electrical system from scratch, what would you do differently? Anything you wish you added, or regretted doing?
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Aug 3, 2018 11:15:37 GMT -8
All my lighting will be 12 volt and I’m going to control them with remote relays
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Aug 4, 2018 4:54:51 GMT -8
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 4, 2018 6:33:34 GMT -8
I don't see the advantage of the relay. Instead of 2 wires, now you need 3 unless you trust the skin as a ground return.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Aug 4, 2018 13:24:27 GMT -8
yep. That’s what I’m using |
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Aug 4, 2018 13:32:52 GMT -8
I don't see the advantage of the relay. Instead of 2 wires, now you need 3 unless you trust the skin as a ground return. The relay module is just a switch that goes inline of the switch leg. Same number of wires to the light. |
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Aug 5, 2018 9:23:47 GMT -8
In my last camper I had 1 1/2" walls so I ran both 12v and shore power. The light is different from an incandescent bulb than an LED. I like the look of the shore power lights better but we camp off the grid. a lot. As for only having 12v, you'll be committing to no a/c, toaster, microwave, etc.
With that said, on our Forester I wish we had gone with the largest marine battery (rather than a mid-size) and I wish I had positioned the front 12v ports someplace more convenient than under the bench.
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 5, 2018 12:08:42 GMT -8
I think the placing of your USB at 12 volt ports is often a regret. I placed mine above my daughter's bed and it was so bright I had to add a switch to turn it off at night. This is good because it turns out in that meter draws something like 30 milliamps all the time. putting all of my fuse box and circuit breakers under the dinette was also a bit of a hassle because you have to bend over it for long periods of time getting it wired up.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2018 20:41:58 GMT -8
On my first teardrop I had grand plans of an elaborate electric system, 110v, 12v, converter, the whole shebang. While I was in the final stages of building, I started camping in it and I realized that I only camped at parks. Why the heck was I doing all this boondock stuff? 12v wouldn't run a fridge for a week or power an AC or heater so is it just for lights and a water pump? I had a couple of battery powered lights and lamps and bottled water. 12v seemed like alot of work for a little convenience. I am in Texas and other than someone's private property there is no boondocking anyway.
Regarding 110v, my last three campers were the same as my teardrop, keep it simple. Hard wired the end of a high quality power strip to an RV outlet on the side of the camper which acted like a breaker box and circuit distribution panel. The power strip was stashed under the seat with everything plugged in and I never needed to access it. BOOM... done. I had a .99 household extension running up the wall behind a seat cushion with three outlets for my Percolator and various device chargers. Worked absolutely great for years.
I think alot of guys get a kick out of designing complex systems and I get that, I like to recognize my needs and design to those needs. Your needs may be different and your camping ability may be different from mine too.
The camper I am building now will not have 12v but I will have multiple 110v outlets and a correct breaker box simply for a cleaner look since the kitchen will be across from the power inlet.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Aug 7, 2018 5:43:00 GMT -8
I know what you mean. I wasn't going to have 12v at all, since we have only camped (tent camped my whole life) at state parks that have power at every site, and the main driver of getting a camper was to have a/c. However, we really want built-in LED lights in our ceiling, and with walls 1.5" thick, 12v is our only option. So we'll have a converter for lights and the vent fan. No on-board water tanks (all the sites have water, too).
We'll have the a/c window unit, small fridge (110v only), single-burner electric induction stove (plugs into outlet), probably a microwave, and various outlets for whatever. So the focus will mainly be on 110v, with the 12v as an afterthought.
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