jukebox
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Post by jukebox on May 16, 2020 11:40:10 GMT -8
Also at this junction box and plug you mention, do not be concerned with wire color as much as correct wire and terminal location. The current doesn't know color anyway it just turns red real fast when it is shorted.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 9, 2019 18:04:16 GMT -8
Christine, I just noticed that you ended your post with a positive comment even after your negative experience. Great attitude and I wish I was closer to be able to help. I hope my advice and others is useful to you and the rest of your trip goes super smooth and creates many good memories.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 9, 2019 18:00:56 GMT -8
This is a late reply. You may be back allready.
I pulled the trailer from the front. Naturally the front of the hitch is center and lots to hook onto.
If you are going to tow it then bring a jack and lift one wheel off the ground and spin by hand. If it growls then don't do it. If it growls and had movement top to bottom then really don't do it. Check both sides. It can be 4 hours of hell.
Just read the recent post and the story they had. I also noticed that they had all that trouble with the trailer axle, towing, the stress of added cost and probably hotel cost and she ended her post with a positive camping note to all of us. Great attitude. Really nice to see. I wish I was closer to offer help.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 9, 2019 17:52:47 GMT -8
Unfortunately a wheel bearing failure to that extreme will most likely require an axle assembly. The threaded dust cap system has not been used for many years. I have seen that on old tractors and front of old cars. Old cars being older than 1940's. I even wonder if that axle is original to your trailer. Not totally sure on that.
If the spindle is very damaged then that also means the hub is damaged. Most viable repair is to replace the axle. Attention will also be needed with the leaf springs. At minimum it will need new U bolts and hardware. For the U bolts to hit the ground like you describe then the wheel must have come off or folded right up in the wheel well. The brake drums should have hit the ground first. If that is the case then and axle assembly complete with hubs and brake drums would be the way to go. Then you will have all modern parts for easy future service.
Do you have wheel well or trailer damage? Here our insurance would cover all damage except for the failed part. My friend had a trailer tire blow out and took out his trailer wheel well. Also his fridge and some of the trailer body. Insurance covered all damage except for the tire. it was explained to him that it was insurance and not warranty. makes sense.
Brakes are required by laws and by trailer GVW. Each state may have different laws and sound like you are travelling through many states. Here is Canada, trailer brakes are required when the trailer GVW is over 2000 lbs. If this trailer has brakes then install new brakes without a doubt. You can never go wrong with having a trailer with brakes. A reputable shop should never talk a person out of this.
One tip here. The new axle assemble or new hubs whichever way you choose will not come with much grease in the bearings. I don't know why but they don't. Have the repair shop repack the bearings. I have bought 2 axle assemblies and many sets of hubs and all needed a proper bearing pack.
Sounds like you may have tire and rim damage as well?
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 4, 2019 15:40:14 GMT -8
I would just rent the car trailer from where the Shasta is. Saves you gas dragging an empty trailer all the way there. You can rent car hauler trailers from U-Haul one way. You will need a winch. Maybe the car hauler trailer has one? Also, a tow strap to connect to the winch cable if you can't back up the trailer close to the Shasta. You may also need some 2x6 boards to extend the ramps to get the Shasta up onto the trailer. Straps on all 4 corners. Ratchet straps from both rear corners of the bumper and also 2 in the front. All 4 are required. I would also put 2 more from the axle of the Shasta to the car hauler frame.
I did this about 2 years ago and worked well. Also, make a cardboard wrapped in plastic protector for the front windows of the Shasta. You don't want a stone from the tow vehicle taking out a window.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Aug 20, 2019 15:32:09 GMT -8
Are you planning to repaint this trailer? If not then maybe try to feed a paint stir stick into the hole and position so that you can just put screws in the sheeting holes. You will see the screw heads but with a piece a butyl under each screw head before screwing in will secure and seal the screws into the sheeting and into the wood stir stick. Then use a suggested vent for the hole. If you don't mid seeing screw heads this will be easy to do.
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Post by jukebox on May 26, 2019 12:09:49 GMT -8
Tire pressures seems to be more of a personal preference than actual fact. The max pressure rating on the tire is for the max load rating of the tire. If you are not at max load of the tire then why inflate to the max rating? The trailer will ride super rough for no reason. Example. If you have a single axle trailer like most of us with canned ham trailers that weigh around 2000 lbs you don't need to fill the tires to max psi. If the tires are rated at 1700 lbs at max air pressure cold then the combined carrying weight of the tires is 3400 lbs. Obviously way more than required even if you load your trailer heavy.
Overloaded tires and hub bearings will get hot and fail if not maintained/adjusted correctly. Fill your tires to 30 percent lower than max psi. Load your trailer and tow it with your new tires for about 10 minutes or so in warm weather then stop and put your hand on the sidewall of the tire. Should feel moderately warm. Also touch the bearing cap. The cap should feel slightly warm almost as if it is a few degrees warmer than ambient. See how the trailer feels and sits on the tires. Adjust up or down from there. If it is good then leave it. The temperature of the rolling tire will tell you when it is inflated correctly.
Balancing of the trailer wheel assemblies was a good idea. I wouldn't get too hung up on the valve stems. Metal ones generally need a flat surface to be mounted to. Your rims may not accommodate that. Standard rubber valve stems will work fine just as long as they are not too long. I have never heard of a pressure rating for valve stems. Keep the stems short or as short as possible and still be able to adjust the pressure without too much trouble or removing hubcaps etc.
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Post by jukebox on Apr 15, 2019 6:39:08 GMT -8
That's a good distance to see how it feels and how your vehicle will handle the tow. A trailer having brakes is determined by the Gross Vehicle Weight ( GVW) of the trailer in your area. Here in Canada, the Motor Vehicle Branch sets laws about brakes and GVW. Currently its 1999 lbs GVW and under with single axle does not require brakes. Remember this is basic safety and you will always be safer with brakes. I don't think there is a downside to having brakes but sometimes just not as necessary. Your vehicle has a low tow capacity as compared to other vehicles. Part of the tow capacity is the size of the brakes on the tow vehicle. Yours will have standard duty brakes. Lots of other factors too but we are talking brakes.
You need to check with your local authorities and see what the law is. Also remember that each State and Province may have different laws. If you travel out of your State or Province you should check with where you are travelling as well.
Vehicle manufacturers determine towing capacity of the tow vehicle but there are other factors that they don't include or tell you. Weight distribution and wind are the biggest factors. Ideally you want to be level as possible with the trailer and tow vehicle when loaded. Stand back and look at it side view. Also more then half of you load in the trailer should be forward of the axle. Unless you are packing tons of stuff in your trailer, this is generally not too much of a concern. A heavy cooler and such should go forward. You get the idea.
Wind and wind drag are HUGE factors in towing. Every trailer has wind drag that significantly contributes to towing. It essentially has the effect of adding weight while towing. This is not included in vehicle towing capacity. Head wind, side wind and tail wind all effect differently and also hills. I have been in a head wind for hours and it feels like you trailer has fattened up by twice the size. So is the gas bill.
Its all experience of towing. Ask questions so you don't learn the hard way. Hope this helps.
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Post by jukebox on Apr 15, 2019 6:25:39 GMT -8
Hi, I just purchase a restored from the frame up 1963 Shasta Compact. Super excited to have found this one! Was rebuilt by a gentleman in Boise ID from the frame up! I'm currently towing with my Honda Element which can handle 1500#s. Since I've been a tent camper for a long time .. I'm a pretty minimalist packer Is there a way to tell how much weight is distributed front to back and side to side? I don't want to carry water on board because of the weight. Is there a way to use my hand pump to access a water jug I'll carry in the car? Do I need trailer brakes and where should i have it done? thanks for your help!! Patty 1963 Shasta Compact Photos
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Post by jukebox on Apr 2, 2019 17:34:11 GMT -8
Maybe the seller meant to say there is $500 worth of parts that could be salvaged off of it ??
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Post by jukebox on Mar 31, 2019 6:34:14 GMT -8
Welcome and it is great to hear positive comments and positive outlook from a not so positive purchase. The seller hiding the ceiling area like that is not lipstick that is concealment. Done deliberate and on purpose to hide it. It looks wet on the edges in the photo.
You are getting alot of good advice here on the forum from people with alot of experience.
I like those muffins. Great.
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Post by jukebox on Mar 3, 2019 9:03:42 GMT -8
That brochure for the Shasta Deluxe is interesting. I thought the deluxe was just longer from the pictures I have seen in the past. I was going to ask about the front side dinette windows. It looks unusual to me because all the Airflytes I have seen have the slightly angled stationary window in those locations. Also the back window on yours is louvered. Most seem to be a flip out awning type in the back.
I also noticed the picture you posted of your floor plan says 16 on it and not Airflyte. I am learning now that there was model differences not just year by year but also model changes even in the same size trailer. Is there a documented list somewhere that lists out the models and differences? 1500 1600 16 Airflyte etc?
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Post by jukebox on Feb 26, 2019 14:47:10 GMT -8
I agree. Structurally a car/truck rim will perform the same as a trailer rim. I think the differences are in offset and the visual look. Current trailer rims I see are styled/designed to be used as is without hub caps. Car/truck rims have always been designed to be used with hubcaps and or trim rings. Looking at an old rim, i don't know how someone would know it is a specific car rim and not a trailer rim. I don't have any experience with old trailer rims except for some 70's style ones that look like on open 5 spoke style painted grey. Ugly too. Make sure that the rim is designed for tubeless tires. If you have tubeless radial tires on there now then i would buy new trailer tires of the same size. Replace the valve stem and have them balanced. People cheap out and don't feel they need to balance wheel assemblies on trailers.
A few points about swapping rims. Make sure the rim fits. As someone else mentioned, the wheel nuts/studs are only designed the hold the rim to the hub face and not carry the weight. The center flange of the hub carries the weight. The inner diameter of the center hole in the rim should fit snug on the center flange of the hub. Also, replace the wheel nuts if you buy new rims. The nut mating taper is designed to fit the rim. This mating face gets worn out from on and off or over torquing. If the sizing of the wheels and tires you have now seem to perform well then I would replace with the same sizes.
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Post by jukebox on Dec 16, 2018 12:31:20 GMT -8
Depending on the details I think alot of people would be interested including myself. I would be a drive for me but that area has a ton of interest.
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Post by jukebox on Dec 12, 2018 8:43:14 GMT -8
Where are your fuses? Are the 12v interior circuits fused at all? This should have caused a fuse to open. At bare minimum for testing this for a shorted circuit ( fixture or wiring ) go to a auto parts store and buy a 12 volt 10 amp reseting breaker and install in series from the positive where you are hooking up to the test battery. Also, don't hold the wires ever with bare hands on a circuit that is not protected properly. It would be the exact same as touching a red hot stove element. The copper in the wire shielding will get red hot instantly and keep heating untill something burns open. Usually the wire will burn all the way back to the source of the shorted circuit.
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