roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Mar 6, 2020 6:31:26 GMT -8
No blood, sweat and tears.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 11, 2020 21:32:30 GMT -8
Probably marmolium is nicer than the vinyl sheet I used ...I don’t know. This stuff seems durable, super easy to take care of. It seems to resist stain so well I couldn’t even mark the cut lines with a sharpie. Cost was a little under 3$ sf including glue. After floor prep it took 10 hours , including going to town to get it, making a pattern, cut and glue down. I have one seam only and it’s at the door to the lav bath area. There are quite a few corners with the cabinets and all but careful work making and following the paper pattern worked well. I’ll try and get a picture soon. Been awhile. May have to start over with flicker.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 11, 2020 16:48:28 GMT -8
Today I put new flooring down. Was gonna use vct but decided on sheet vinyl. Very happy with results. And this is the last thing! Any thing else and I have to start over. In my finish carpentry business I talk to floor installers occasionally that have done this for decades. I don’t know how they still walk.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 11, 2020 12:45:11 GMT -8
Classy. That was a lot of bucks in those days. I bought a new off the lot Chevy pick up in 1970 for 3k.
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 26, 2020 11:13:02 GMT -8
My old traveleze is super wide, but I have a first generation (04/05) T@B that is 6’6”. Narrow is handy out in the sticks.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 1, 2020 7:13:04 GMT -8
Back in my younger concrete days we used mdo for formwork on walls often. With the smooth surface it could be oiled after use an re used many times leaving a smooth concrete wall surface and was easy to strip. I don’t see any real advantage to using it on your floor. My opinion is use quality plywood and coat the bottom and all the cut edges before assembly. That black stuff from tractor supply is good and inexpensive. I used a floor paint made for exterior floors on the bottom of mine. But maybe mdo coated would be extra nice and worth the few extra bucks.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 30, 2019 10:10:01 GMT -8
Thanks for the fun story
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 22, 2019 8:00:06 GMT -8
NC, my daughter said she gets the tint on Amazon and it comes in small envelopes or larger quantities.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 22, 2019 7:51:53 GMT -8
Yes it was a ton of work. Probably good I didn’t realize how much at the start or it might not have been done. But i did finish it a couple days ago and I’m real happy with it. I have pics on my phone, but haven’t posted in awhile and my flicker stuff all vanished, so I don’t know. couple things if anyone tries this. I used lath screws. They have a very large flat head. Get “sharp point” not “ self drill”. Also. At joints I put the screw between the sheets with a large fender washer. Leave a fat 1/8” at least between so expansion doesn’t make them buckle. And I replaced a few more bolts. You know those floor bolts with the flat top that vts sells. They are called elevator bolts and any hardware store should have them in various sizes.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 21, 2019 18:28:13 GMT -8
My daughter builds and sells cutting boards and polished hardwood table top slabs with engravings or cracks filled with tinted epoxy. Many colors are available in a powder form. Sure you can find something on line. I’d practice on some scrap first. And mask around the edges.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 17, 2019 7:59:05 GMT -8
NC, there is a small bolt to keep the jack from pulling out of the part that is bolted to the tongue. It is easily removed, and not really needed. Then that pin with the handle pulls and the entire shaft can lift out for travel and slips right back in when you want to disconnect. When we are on the road and stop for one night now I can drop the tailgate and not worry about unhooking. If they have a TS out there near you go check it out. You’ll see what I mean.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 17, 2019 7:18:32 GMT -8
Good topic. I’m just finishing the new springs to the new axel, new tires etc. and have gone as stock as possible which seems best to me. Taller would be handy sometimes on back roads, but I’ll just camp in a reasonable spot and explore further not towing. And of course as far as engineering, would it be for perfect conditions or times like driving across southern Wyoming in 50 mph winds or down CA 99 with bumper to bumper semi trucks? And stock height mine tows level with a straight hitch on my Colorado. I found a great jack to eliminate the annoying drag and no tail gate down. Tractor Supply has a jack called “the ultimate jack” that has a post that raises and lowers and with an easy modification (removing a small nylon keeper bolt) the shaft easily pulls out and you toss it in the bed of the truck so the tail gate will lower without a long hitch, and nothing hanging down to bend on the dips. It’s about $70 and built very nicely.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 1, 2019 8:28:04 GMT -8
Yesterday I painted the Masonite that will go on the belly. Not a one day job, but that’s what’s goin on here. Couple years ago when I started the 62 traveleze restore, I did a total skin off rebuild, but not frame off. Some may remember pictures. I was able to do some floor framing repair and replace some of the bolts, thinking I’d do more under later. Since I’m changing springs and tires now, I’m up on blocks and decided to clean the rest up. I tore off all the old 1/2 black fiber, and old Fiberglas insulation. I was surprised at how clean and new most of the exposed wood was. I put up 1” rigid insulation—-the “direct burial” type. Where the old belly board was smashed between the wood and steel, I found I was able to remove all that scrap with a little gentle prying or a nudge from a bottle jack, and a small battery operated sawsall. In order to not have to cut the new board with joints at all steel frame members I can now slide larger pieces between and screw to the wood 2x2 framing. I’ll then take up any slack with some 1/4” hard rubber pads I made and replace most of the rest of the bolts. I painted the rough side down on the Masonite as it seemed it would adhere better. I used exterior primer and then 2 coats of exterior floor paint. I’ve used the black post paint, but using this because it goes on nice and will be easier to mark and cut full painted sheets. Seems to be going well. All but the lying on the cold wet gravel with all the crap falling in my face. Winter repairs are such fun.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 17, 2019 6:53:09 GMT -8
Thanks, and your right. Not too much difference. I’m gonna go with them. In the meantime, since I’m up on blocks I’m doing some new insulation work under there .
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 11, 2019 20:12:09 GMT -8
Thanks Bill for the input. The springs I got are a little shorter than original however the original have undoubtedly flattened or grown a bit in the last 60 years. I spoke with 2 more mechanics in town I know today and they both think I should go with the new ones I got, so that’s what I’m going to do. The arch on the new is close to he old, but hopefully the new will give the axel to frame clearance I need as they are fresh and will settle in as you say to the length of the original, but still stand taller. I hope to get it all back together next weekend, including the new tires I got today.....205/75 8 ply rated radial by Carlisle. Also doing some new belly insulation and board. Hopefully a test run in the next couple weeks.
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