roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 30, 2020 5:47:24 GMT -8
Haze—-so thinking back on it, I kept the original fixtures throughout the camper and exchanged the sockets for led, except for the hood. There I kept the original porcelain socket and used a new small screw in 12v bulb...the size that usually goes in an oven or fridge. I can’t say for sure, but I don’t think high heat would be that much of an issue, especially with the fan on some. In my own house I built a custom hood and bought the interior unit——vent fan, filter, light, piping—-and the lights in there are led. In the trailer I first tried the 12v screw in but on those fixtures had trouble with lights flickering, so changed to the new sockets. The little one on the stove however has worked fine. I just looked at vts. They have a 15 watt 12v oven light bulb for $2.89. Not a lot of light, but only 1.25 amps.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 28, 2020 5:52:39 GMT -8
I did similar in mine for the same reasons. For the light you can get a 12v that screws in, or easily replace the existing socket with a 12v led one. That worked best for me. On the vent, 12 v fans are available and not expensive. I think I put in new toggle switches too. I don’t remember the amp usage, but not bad at all. Check vts for the lights and them or amazon for the fan motor.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 16, 2020 5:57:49 GMT -8
In housing, if wires need to run through conduit, say for example to lighting or a ceiling fan on a beam ceiling over a porch or deck, individual wires are supposed to be used instead of romex inside the conduit. Something about a heat issue. Also, I think there is romex rated for direct burial, though I think the conduit route would be safer. Conduit is kind of a hassle though if many changes in direction are needed.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 7, 2020 5:43:20 GMT -8
Those look neat, but we go with the method turbo said above. Ours go in a little plastic basket set in the sink. All part of the move out list.....vent down, door step up, table secure, propane off, water switch off, etc.———man I’m missing camping.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 4, 2020 5:34:50 GMT -8
I’d go heavy copper through the floor, bolted to frame like viks says. Use a squirt of silicone , though underneath holes really don’t get much water anyway. But if the battery is going inside make sure it’s compartment is well vented to the outside, or use a sealed (AGM) battery. Some even vent the sealed ones, but I’ve seen them work safely without extra vent.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 27, 2020 5:55:50 GMT -8
Thanks, that makes perfect sense.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 26, 2020 19:32:41 GMT -8
I have a 200 watt solar system that goes to the 12 v storage through the charge controller and then into a PD 4045. I like the PD as clean, compact, and organized for output to 12v and 120v ac. It also takes care of the battery when I have it plugged in at home. The system is all under the seat road side at the front table. The PD access is under the table just off the floor. I’m not sure how, but If I was doing this all from scratch again I’d try and make it a little more accessible. It’s kind of a pain to lie on the floor under the table to check a breaker or fuse. I also put a new PD in an older Tab I have. Works well there too.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 25, 2020 19:30:09 GMT -8
Thanks for the interest. Kirkadie, I haven’t tackled my table saw yet. It’s an old unisaw I’ve had about 35 years. Had bearings redone a couple times but still good machine. I read one opinion that said it’s wrong to box the lower cabinet in too tight because it needs plenty of draw, but I don’t know. Sometimes I just stuff the 4” hose under there. Doesn’t help too much so I need to work on that too. There are some DIY over arm collectors on u tube that look interesting. Surf around and see what you find. I just got my jet air filtration box hung from the ceiling today...very nice.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 25, 2020 7:11:18 GMT -8
One of the many projects I finally got to was upgrading my dust collection. My whole life I’ve worked around wood dust, but like many, never worried about it. A few months ago I had some breathing issues and my doctor told me to clean up my act in the shop. I’ve had an old delta collector for years, but all they really do, especially with old leaking bags is collect chips and shoot the bad dust right back at you. So far, this is what I’ve done. Put the delta out on the covered porch of the shop( great noise improvement too) with hose piped through wall. Got new bags, top and bottom. And here is the great help...got a cyclone separating unit. Oneida Dust Deputy Got a small 5 gallon bucket collector to go between palm sander and shop vac. Got a Jet brand air filter to hang from ceiling. We still have to do gated duct runs, so now just using the long 4” hose. The difference is amazing. I highly recommend any with a wood shop large or small to not ignore the dust as long as I did. There are hundreds of videos out there to show you how. For supplies try woodcraft or rockler.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 17, 2020 19:36:25 GMT -8
I had a similar problem. If I remember right I first just took out the bad and added a couple joists. However when I recently got around to redoing the flooring I took it a little further to original sound framing and replaced all the old bolts I could with new elevator bolts. Anyway, what ever you do make sure to make all joints as flat as you can because if you put down new floor like vct , bumps are bad news.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 10, 2020 16:36:00 GMT -8
Or just break the glass.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 8, 2020 18:54:54 GMT -8
And what did I do to my trailer today? I went out and swept the floor and talked to her. Said don’t worry, we will go camping again. And this site is a nice diversion for a few minutes each day. I’ve finally learned to not look at the news too much. Just enough to stay informed is much better for you than the full dose. Hope you are all ok.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 8, 2020 18:47:22 GMT -8
To chime in on the veneer topic of datc (beautiful work BTW) I’ll share a method I used a couple of times. Once was cherry veneer on a spiral staircase stringer for a client and once was with oak veneer on a curved wall below a curved counter bar in my own kitchen. The oak has held up well but not perfect. May be a little bubble or two after 10 years. On the stair I never had a call back, so hopefully it’s fine. Both obviously on curves and this method would probably work better flat. No guarantees on this...just throwing it out there. With the sub surface well sanded and clean, and the veneer pieces cut a little oversized I rolled type 2 tite bond on both surfaces and then allowed them to completely dry. I then put them gluefaces together and used a hot clothes iron which reactivates the glue somehow and quickly sticks them together. Again, no guarantee, but might be worth playing around with again. But also, I have no problem with contact cement and a roller.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 8, 2020 5:56:19 GMT -8
My lock is a dexter and was in good shape but no keys. I gave it to a friend who’s a retired locksmith and he made keys without changing anything in the lock. No idea how, but he said it was pretty easy and did it for free. Of course right now it’s not like you can just wander around talking to locksmith shops.
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Post by roadtripper on Mar 29, 2020 19:34:07 GMT -8
If you do the laminations, 1/4” should work and be very strong. A few tips...do a dry run first. Make it a little long so you don’t have to worry about the ends lining up during gluing. If in your pictures the top old board is what you need, make a jig from it, not adding to it like the photo. Have plenty of clamps. Use titebond 2 or 3 or Extend if you can find it. Put it on quick with a 2” paint roller. Clamp from center out in both directions. Have a helper if possible. Let it set a day or two. It may spring back a little so possibly over bend just a hair to start. Have fun.
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