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Post by 70shastamom on Apr 8, 2018 18:49:21 GMT -8
We purchased a 1970 Shasta 1400 this past fall. This past week I started to pull out the water damaged panels on the back wall. I also pulled up the carpet the previous owner had installed. With this I found extensive water damage on the floor also. Needless to say - the full depth demo has started. We were working from the back to the front pulling up the floor. Well we made it to the closet and bathroom and pulled the walls out (luckily they came out in full panels). At this point we are thinking about not replacing the wet bath, but building some cabinetry and installing a slightly larger fridge. After visiting with our son who has done some vintage camper rehab, he's recommending adding back the bathroom. So now I'm looking for the pros/cons of adding it back. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by vikx on Apr 8, 2018 19:05:43 GMT -8
Welcome Shastamom.
I think at least build it so that the bathroom can be replaced later. People like showers in a trailer if it's big enough.
Also, be sure you lift the skins and repair the lower wood rot. You can't get to it from the inside and it's a major place for insidious rot. These boards help hold the body on the trailer frame.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Apr 9, 2018 2:37:12 GMT -8
Everyone is different but having a bath is a biggie for me. Part of the draw of a camper of any type. without one it is just a fancy tent. Someday you are going to want to sell it and without a bath you are going to lose a lot of your market.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Apr 9, 2018 7:04:49 GMT -8
Pardon the interruption, but I believe you may have the 16SC (self-contained) model rather than the 1400. The 1400 was not equipped with a full wet bath. If your layout looks like this,   then you have a 16SC. (The 16SC has a 14-foot cabin on a 16-ft trailer.) I know, I know...semantics.... My advice would be to keep the wet bath in place. First, the fiberglass floor pan is going to be tough to remove without damaging it, and it is near impossible to replace if it is to be replaced. The toilet fixture is not an easy process to uncouple form the tank below to release the floor pan. The shower drain bypasses the tank, and is slightly easier to get at. It is obstructed somewhat though, by the black holding tank and the metal belly pan. As you know by now, the wall panels are easier to replace with something more modern. There is paneling that is built to be showerboard, or you can get fiberglass panels. (I'm obligated to add here that all wall panels in these campers should be replaced from outside, removing the skin and working with the roof metal off. Long story, cross that bridge later.) Plumbing is a bit less of an issue because there is so little of it. In mine, the black tank was broken out at the top, around the coupler to the toilet. I ended up removing the tank and the toilet, covered the mount with a double layer of plywood cutouts, and use a porta-potty in place of the toilet. My long term plans are to repair the tank and replace the original setup, but this works very well for now. With regards to the larger refrigerator, I think keeping structural integrity in place is more important as a consideration. You would not want to lose a lot of the galley structure, as it provides a great deal of support to the front end of the camper. By the way, is the original refrigerator still in place, and still operable? Coolers work well...  While resale market is always a consideration, I would always advise to make it work the best it can to suit your own needs. "It's your trailer, do what you want with it" applies. |
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DaytonaGTS
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Post by DaytonaGTS on Apr 9, 2018 9:31:59 GMT -8
Having a bath with shower in that trailer is a Big plus.
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Post by 70shastamom on Apr 9, 2018 19:08:43 GMT -8
I believe you are correct Ten - our front looks the same. We unfortunately had to remove all as the floor is rotted out (originally we had hoped we would only need to make repairs to some of the floor and a small area of wall) The base is fine, haven't tried the toilet to see if it functions and the flange going into the tank was broken from the toilet. So I think we can make some repairs and reuse what is there. We have decided to pick up supplies and start dropping exterior sheeting to rebuild walls. Luckily for us in this ND winter that doesn't want to end we have the camper inside the garage and have room to build walls.
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Post by 70shastamom on Apr 9, 2018 19:14:11 GMT -8
In regards to the fridge - not original. Previous owner installed a very small dorm fridge. As we are getting as deep into this as we are we will see if we can upsize the fridge opening a bit and use a slightly larger dorm fridge/freezer combo. Camper will be rewired also (hubby is an electrician) upgraded to a 30 amp service. Will need to replace the furnace also.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 11, 2018 12:04:36 GMT -8
I rebuilt our bath except got rid of toilet (for now). After first recent trip we really liked having a lav for face wash, teeth, etc. with out having to use the kitchen sink.
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Post by 70shastamom on Jun 1, 2018 19:19:02 GMT -8
After digging in a bit deeper we decided we are taking the Shasta down and will rebuild/restore from the bottom up. We did get lucky on the walls and find most of the framing in pretty good shape on the door side. The back wall is being completely rebuilt as will the front wall. The birch paneling has finally delivered - first ordered in early April - delivered and rejected due to severe edge damage.
So with a family camping trip scheduled for mid July we are heading off to look at a 1957 Silver Streak Clipper tomorrow. Keeping the fingers crossed that it is in better condition then this poor little Shasta.
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kykate
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Post by kykate on Jun 3, 2018 10:13:32 GMT -8
In regards to the fridge - not original. Previous owner installed a very small dorm fridge. As we are getting as deep into this as we are we will see if we can upsize the fridge opening a bit and use a slightly larger dorm fridge/freezer combo. Camper will be rewired also (hubby is an electrician) upgraded to a 30 amp service. Will need to replace the furnace also. Shastamom you might consider a Dometic, or other brand, compressor cooler/fridge, instead of a dorm fridge. The larger models have a fridge and freezer choice, or all fridge/all freezer. Any imput from other members? |
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Post by vikx on Jun 3, 2018 21:20:56 GMT -8
RV fridges do not have a compressor, they are an absorption fridge, operating by heat warming an ammonia solution that flows thru coils, thus creating cold. That's the simple explanation.
I like your idea of an RV fridge, Kykate. They operate on propane and can be completely off grid. Some models need 12 volts to operate the circuit board. I recommend the simpler manual fridges. Welcome by the way.
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aceliot
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Post by aceliot on Jun 7, 2018 14:13:59 GMT -8
I was looking at getting a dorm type fridge for my trailer since it will not have propane at all. Instead I am going all electric and figuring a way out to put solar panels on or have them to use some other way that won't take away from the vintage look. Is there any good 12 volt or non-propane fridges anyone could recommend?
I hope your camping trip goes good and you can get/use the Clipper.
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Post by vikx on Jun 7, 2018 21:07:56 GMT -8
Aceliot, do a search on 12 volt fridges. There are a few out there. Most are not efficient and eat batteries for lunch.
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Post by heatherindurango on Oct 1, 2019 2:55:09 GMT -8
Hey there! I'm a newbie too! It's so nice to have this resource. I have a '74 Shasta Stratoflyte with a cracked blackwater tank and while I'm curious to know if anyone has has any luck repairing cracks in tanks without having to remove them (that would be ideal), I saw on the old forum that schweetcruisers recommended a manufacturer in Arvada to purchase new tanks. I'm curious if anyone knows of other places like that in OK, TX, or NM.  |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Oct 2, 2019 6:58:28 GMT -8
Hey there! I'm a newbie too! It's so nice to have this resource. I have a '74 Shasta Stratoflyte with a cracked blackwater tank and while I'm curious to know if anyone has has any luck repairing cracks in tanks without having to remove them (that would be ideal), I saw on the old forum that schweetcruisers recommended a manufacturer in Arvada to purchase new tanks. I'm curious if anyone knows of other places like that in OK, TX, or NM. Welcome!
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