First, do no harm. Taking your trailer apart.
Feb 20, 2018 12:13:35 GMT -8
Ten, mobiltec, and 8 more like this
Post by vikx on Feb 20, 2018 12:13:35 GMT -8
Recently, I was very generously given a basket case camper. Lots of great parts and new purchases to do the build. Thankfully, all is in good condition.
That brings me to the purpose of this thread and posting dismantling rules.
1.First, take pictures and lots of them. A tape measure in some can be invaluable. You'll need exterior and interior photos of everything.
2. As you begin working, be gentle and careful. Some cabinets can be screwed from the outside. If you yank it out, the wall stud can be cracked and ruined. If panels are broken, you lose the pattern. Even dismantling a dinette can cause more work if measurements and location are lost.
3. Appliances should be treated with care. As an example, the stove has lots of little lines and a thermostat tube. If damaged, they can be hard/impossible to replace. Repair isn't an option with an oven t'stat; a whole oven valve is needed. It's best to leave appliances intact until you are ready to complete repairs. Sitting in a box makes it hard to remember where everything goes. Do not cut the oven lines!
Wall heaters and furnaces have irreplaceable parts as well. The t'stat tube and the gas valve are two very important parts. Thermocouples can be replaced but be sure the new one has the proper threads. (not metric)
Even small parts can be rare. If your trailer has surge brakes, do not damage the handy little brass fittings on the master cylinder; they are not made anymore. Another rare part is a brass flare reducing tee. Often used to connect a gas light, the tee is 3/8 x 1/4 x 3/8 flare. Sure, a modern 3/8 tee can be reduced but it takes at least 3 parts to do it and much more space.
4. Be careful with the skins and trim. Sometimes just a small piece of skin can be useful. The J rail should be kept as straight as possible. Older J rail is thicker and "different" than modern. It's easy to save and looks better than new. Likewise, save the trim pieces and keep them protected. Metal workers are getting harder to find and it's costly to replace. Please don't bend the J rail double.
5. Save the wiring. The inside wiring is often in safe condition and can be used with a new breaker box. Knowing the path of getting to each fixture will help if you decide to replace some or all. This goes for tow wiring (tails and clearance) as well.
NOTE: Some mid 60s to early 70s trailers have aluminum 110 wiring. It ALL must be replaced. Aluminum heats at a different rate than copper which can cause arcing and fires.
6. Older copper gas lines are much better quality than what is available today. Save them if at all possible. All of the flare fittings can be easily disconnected and reused, in fact they "seat" better than new ones. Even lines that are broken can be saved and re-flared. (two nuts and a union)
Another NOTE: I recommend replacing all aluminum gas lines. It is very difficult to see corrosion and flaws, especially if it has been stapled.
Finally, many parts and trim simply can not be replaced. Don't assume an old latch is still available; doubtful at best. Water fills, exhaust vents and other exterior fittings are no longer sold. Parts and pieces keep our trailers VINTAGE!
Do not discard or destroy ANYTHING until the build is complete.
Feel free to post ideas and your experiences.
That brings me to the purpose of this thread and posting dismantling rules.
1.First, take pictures and lots of them. A tape measure in some can be invaluable. You'll need exterior and interior photos of everything.
2. As you begin working, be gentle and careful. Some cabinets can be screwed from the outside. If you yank it out, the wall stud can be cracked and ruined. If panels are broken, you lose the pattern. Even dismantling a dinette can cause more work if measurements and location are lost.
3. Appliances should be treated with care. As an example, the stove has lots of little lines and a thermostat tube. If damaged, they can be hard/impossible to replace. Repair isn't an option with an oven t'stat; a whole oven valve is needed. It's best to leave appliances intact until you are ready to complete repairs. Sitting in a box makes it hard to remember where everything goes. Do not cut the oven lines!
Wall heaters and furnaces have irreplaceable parts as well. The t'stat tube and the gas valve are two very important parts. Thermocouples can be replaced but be sure the new one has the proper threads. (not metric)
Even small parts can be rare. If your trailer has surge brakes, do not damage the handy little brass fittings on the master cylinder; they are not made anymore. Another rare part is a brass flare reducing tee. Often used to connect a gas light, the tee is 3/8 x 1/4 x 3/8 flare. Sure, a modern 3/8 tee can be reduced but it takes at least 3 parts to do it and much more space.
4. Be careful with the skins and trim. Sometimes just a small piece of skin can be useful. The J rail should be kept as straight as possible. Older J rail is thicker and "different" than modern. It's easy to save and looks better than new. Likewise, save the trim pieces and keep them protected. Metal workers are getting harder to find and it's costly to replace. Please don't bend the J rail double.
5. Save the wiring. The inside wiring is often in safe condition and can be used with a new breaker box. Knowing the path of getting to each fixture will help if you decide to replace some or all. This goes for tow wiring (tails and clearance) as well.
NOTE: Some mid 60s to early 70s trailers have aluminum 110 wiring. It ALL must be replaced. Aluminum heats at a different rate than copper which can cause arcing and fires.
6. Older copper gas lines are much better quality than what is available today. Save them if at all possible. All of the flare fittings can be easily disconnected and reused, in fact they "seat" better than new ones. Even lines that are broken can be saved and re-flared. (two nuts and a union)
Another NOTE: I recommend replacing all aluminum gas lines. It is very difficult to see corrosion and flaws, especially if it has been stapled.
Finally, many parts and trim simply can not be replaced. Don't assume an old latch is still available; doubtful at best. Water fills, exhaust vents and other exterior fittings are no longer sold. Parts and pieces keep our trailers VINTAGE!
Do not discard or destroy ANYTHING until the build is complete.
Feel free to post ideas and your experiences.
