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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2018 1:23:56 GMT -8
Nccamper - I hijacked this photo of your unfinished Forester from another thread earlier tonight. I hope you don't mind me borrowing it for this post.
And here's your beautifully finished end product:
See my unrestored Catalina below:
Obviously, this trailer has no cut out wheel wells. I'm strongly considering adding them to improve the look. The bumper will be removed and replaced with something - not sure what that is yet. Suggestions are welcome, but not the primary purpose of this post.
Also, in the interest of making this a "resto-mod" with lots of chrome and polished aluminum, I was thinking of adding a trim ring like what is shown in the photo below. This happens to be for a Silverado truck.
I also intend to outfit the trailer with chrome rims.
What do you think? Is it fairly common to cut out wheel wells on trailers that were originally designed without?
I'd like to get the process on how you did yours when I'm ready for this step.
Thanks! BW
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Post by bigbill on Jan 4, 2018 17:14:26 GMT -8
Notice where your wheel position is in regard to the bottom of the trailer. Then look at the wheels on the trailer with cut outs. Your trailer is made with shallower wheel wells so you may not even have room to make a cut out like you are looking at, and if you do they may not look good on you trailer so do some careful measuring before you cut.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 11:00:42 GMT -8
Hi bigbill...thanks for the response. The Catalina is actually made with fairly deep wheel wells. I took another look today. They extend up to within an inch or so of the bottom of that ugly grate adjacent to the entry door.
On a similar note, I may enlarge the wheel size a bit as well. I'll take a closer look when I do the teardown work in the Spring.
Assuming I can make this modification, what is your opinion on the look of a cut out wheel well versus left straight as is??
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jan 5, 2018 11:54:31 GMT -8
I'm glad my photos are helpful. I like the teardrop wheel well cut out. If you can make it work, why not? Here are a couple of measurements:  Untitled You would just have to reframe the wheel well.  I just recreated the factory framing. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 12:14:36 GMT -8
Nccamper...a few questions for you and others willing to chime in:
- What is your wheel size - 15"?
- What is your axle rated at, and if you know, what size hub do you have? Looks like a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, but want to confirm hub size as well.
- I'm assuming your trim ring was original to the trailer? As you can see, I show a photo of a Silverado trim piece. I haven't done any research, but does Vintage Trailer Supply or Vintage Trailer Shop carry these items for use on our vintage trailers? Maybe different styles - degree of tear dropness (is that a word??), diameter size, surface finish, etc.?
Thanks,
BW
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jan 5, 2018 14:14:00 GMT -8
The tires on the Forester are 215/75 14. But I think there were 15s on there originally.
I can't remember the hub size but it is a 5 bolt.
The trim/ring was original. I don't know any place that sells them.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Jan 6, 2018 5:02:58 GMT -8
I like the open wheel wells idea, mainly from a practical standpoint of easier tire changes.
The Silverado arches are ok but may I suggest something more vintage like trim from the rear of a 55 Chevy. In the design I did for my dream build I envisioned using 57 Chevy trim.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 6, 2018 10:14:34 GMT -8
I think some look better cut out, others are fine straight. Do you prefer red or yellow? I don't think that you want to cut it out enough that you see the top of your tires. As for larger wheels and tires the larger diameter the tire the less RPM of the hub which means less bearing wear. Just make sure the larger size clears everything as the tire moves going down the road. Remember wheels angles change as the trailer goes over uneven surfaces plus they move up and down. tires also move forward and backward as springs flex. Check for body clearance and also check for clearance at shackle bolts and any other things that could wear or puncture a tire.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2018 21:15:56 GMT -8
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll definitely leave the top portion of the tires covered up. First step is to fit with some larger wheels that still provide good clearance. That will give me a better perspective on how to then fit the cutout to the new wheel profile.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 7, 2018 11:16:59 GMT -8
Remember as you go to larger tires they are also wider so you will have to watch rim back spacing plus total width then make certain how much the tires will be wider than the rims when fully inflated you don't want them hitting any thing as mentioned above. Many Ford and Chrysler car wheels from the rear wheel drives have a 5 on 4 1/2" wheel. You might want to measure and get what you think will fit, then go to a junkyard and find a wheel and tire size that is what you think you need. Take it home and see if it will clear like you thought it would. This would be much cheaper than ordering new wheels and tires and then discovering they won't work. You might even have a friend with a spare tire in there car that you could try. Just some thoughts. have fun.
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