Shasta Airflyte refrigerator replacement suggestions

Two way is all there is. Many people think that because an RV refrigerator uses 12vdc that it magically becomes a three way. Not the case as far as I know. The 12vdc is only to power the computer that operates the fridge and automatically changes it from propane to 110vac and back. 

That being said, I used a Dometic RM 2351 in the 59 Airflyte with some modifications to the cabinet that were pretty simple. I raised it up to eye level and created a new base for the fridge. It fit in the cabinet very well. 

The following videos do not include propane gas installation. I got behind when I had to make a move to Nevada and will finish the series soon but they show the cabinet mods and box install....

Part 1 youtu.be/uP_Ox5d2j_E

Part 2 youtu.be/uQ3nCzqK7o4

Part 3 coming soon which will show the propane line install.

The nice thing about the computerized models is that it automatically re-lights if the flame blows out while you are driving. 

3 way refrigerators are still made today. The 12 volt element keeps the fridge cold while on the road, but as BW says, it is on all the time and can drain your vehicle battery. The 110 works when plugged into shore power and gas for boondocking, both are t'stat controlled.

Fridges with a circuit board require a 12 volt source to allow automatic functions but few have a 12 volt element. Hope this clears up the confusion.

I think you made a good choice. I believe the size you bought normally sells for around $500 new. A friend of mine has the SMAD and the controls are at the bottom front of the fridge rather than on the backside. Makes it more convenient than a Dometic of a similar size.

Some folks like dorm style fridges that are 110V electric only. I prefer the 3-way like what you purchased. I usually camp where there is no electricity and we hate running generators, so the gas option is the way to go.

Also, not sure if you have much experience with 3-way refrigerators, but the gas setting works better than the 110V setting. We learned over the years to just keep it on gas mode the entire time camping and never allow it to switch to 110V. Some have an "auto" setting that will switch it over to 110 V when your camper is plugged in. We keep ours on "manual" to avoid that problem. These things take a very small amount of gas to run for an entire week, so no need to worry about that either.

Make sure you are on level ground, as these gas absorption units rely on gravity to move the chemical fluid rather than a compressor.

I am thinking about 12V and 110 fridge. They seem to cost less and I dont like the idea of gas running all night in the tiny camper. I believe my Airflytes fridge is gas only astral williams. I dont know if it works or not yet.

vikx I noticed you mentioned 12v/110 above. How many hours of driving do you think it would take to drain the car battery? And also does the wiring just run to the 7 way wiring harness? I would also like to hear your opinion on keeping or tossing the original gas heater, I know there are a few debate threads on here that I will be searching for.

www.ebay.com/itm/24Qt-Absorption-Fridge-110V-12V-Camping-Mini-Bar-Refrigerator-RV-Hotel-Apartment/152283953967?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D4b20eefda279424596808c366de65af5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D152740241022%26itm%3D152283953967&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&autorefresh=true

Regardless of how new and reliable gas appliances are these days, ALWAYS have a working carbon monoxide detector installed.  Both, in your home and in your camper. That will give you the peace of mind to sleep at night.  Safety comes first in everything we do.