Newbie question about frame panel wall repair

Another factor is work space. If you have a enclosed space to work it makes pulling it down to the frame much easier. If you're working outside, it may be easier piece by piece if it isn't totally rotted as vikx mentioned above.

I've restored worse without taking the walls down but it requires working in a methodical way. I work section by section repairing from the floor/sill up.

A few questions:
You say the floor seems solid. That includes all the framing under the 3/4" floor?
The sides resting on the bottom sill (which screws into the frame) hasn't rotted to the point that the walls have sagged?
The metal framing under the floor is solid and not sagging or needing attention?
Are you reusing the skin? If so you need to be exact. I find it easy to match the walls to the old skin with the walls up. Others may disagree.
Another big issue is whether your friend will let you take over a big part of the barn if you take the walls down.

Take an ice pick and don't be shy about poking.

slowlady ,

Have you done any replacing yet?  If not then the front corner at the bottom has been opened up and some work done before.  It appears in the photo like a piece or two of pressure-treated wood has been added. 


Just in case you get looking and decide maybe it should be good enough to keep, there are plenty of reasons to get rid of pressure treated lumber in the framing.  The biggest is that the chemicals used in the PT process will react and oxidize the aluminum siding. 

One side is not always the same as the other!!! Wonder how I know this?

The way to make the skirting match the skin is with the SKIN. There are screw holes, doors and windows that allow you tack the skin exactly as it was. I use small 3/4" drywall screws, but 1" will work. Don't go clear thru...

Get your skirts rough cut first. Then, using trim screws, tack the skirt(s) in place. Two screws will do. Hang the lower skin and tack. You can also clamp the bottom. Trace around the skin pattern onto the skirt. You should be able to lift the skin and remove the skirt for trimming. Cut with a jigsaw and sand smooth. Tack back in place and if it matches your skin, the final attachments can be done.

Lawman, since your trailer is still intact, remove the front, roof and rear metal. There are a couple of ways to do it depending on amount of rot.

Remove all windows and doors, then loosen the bottom of the side skins. You should be able to prop the siding up and work underneath and/or slip the lower siding off. When repairs are complete, slip the siding back where it was (Be exact!) and trace the pattern on the skirts for final cuts. Propping the skin up makes for a little faster job since you don't have to take it off, then rehang.