flameout
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1968 Shasta StarFlyte
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Post by flameout on Oct 8, 2017 10:59:30 GMT -8
We didn't get to use our camper as much as we wanted over the Summer and now we definitely wont be for a while. I managed to squeeze the camper into the garage, which has an opening of 9'w x 8'h, so it was tight to say the least. Hopefully by next Spring, I'll be able to do this again... 20170923_152234 by Bill, on Flickr Got it in and and to the rear, so I can still fit my other cars Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr I was a bit worried about what I was going to find, but after removing what seemed like 10 million screws, it was bad, but maybe not as bad as I was expecting. Only the bottom 1/4 seems to have rotted, while the wood above still looks like new Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr I removed all of the windows and most of the skins with very little problems. I'm having trouble with the hot water enclosure and the exhaust vent from the heater. They must have welded it on and built the trailer around it. I also haven't removed the roof skins yet, mainly because I can't get them to separate from each other! I initially wasn't going to remove them, but there is some water damage around the roof vent, so I might as well go all out and might just replace all 4 sections. Between those 4 and probably 3 sheets of the siding (which I think is 1" Mesa Deluxe?) it should make for a nice shipping bill from HemetValleyRV to Pennsylvania. The lower aluminum looks like it is going to be a challenge to find. A small diamond looking pattern and then to also find it in about 15" length This is that pattern, along with a few hitchhikers I found Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Now to find somewhere to store all of this stuff! Shasta Rebuild by Bill, on Flickr Just a few more photos Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Restore by Bill, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Oct 8, 2017 22:01:01 GMT -8
Some work ahead, but all in all, not bad! Thanks for sharing.
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flameout
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Post by flameout on Oct 9, 2017 14:39:43 GMT -8
I got the roof removed today. The hardest part was removing the dang roofing tar that a previous owner had slopped on around all of the vent. Once that was removed, the screws came out very easily I'm just a little confused on what I need to order for replacement. I was thinking it was going to just be 4 pieces, at 4' x 8' but there is another smaller piece added in there. Looks to be about an 8" piece. Total length of roof is just over 16'1". Also, what is that lip called where one piece slips into the other? This shows that small 8" piece Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Roof appears to be very sturdy Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr I was wondering why this one piece isn't the same thickness as the others? Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Oct 9, 2017 14:51:06 GMT -8
WOW, that is in very good condition. If You are going to replace the aluminum roof, they will make it to order. You should know the name of the joints, being a city in Your state, Pittsburgh. LOL
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Oct 9, 2017 18:40:38 GMT -8
The piece that isn't as thick, is that the one that joins 2 pieces of plywood?
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Post by vikx on Oct 9, 2017 21:18:43 GMT -8
I really think factory seamed roofing is the way to go. I've done several and none have leaked. An easy fix compared to my 52 Hanson who has butyl puttied 4'panels... Seamed roofing is much better.
I have trouble making a one piece roof look good. Yeah, I know you need a ladder to look at it.
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flameout
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Post by flameout on Oct 10, 2017 6:48:16 GMT -8
Oh, The Pittsburgh joint, lol. I've heard of it, but wasn't really sure what it was. So the joints on the side pieces are just S-lock? I guess it takes a bit of finagling to get the Pittsburgh joint to separate? On that piece that isn't as thick as the others, yes, that is where there is that metal strip where the plywood roof pieces butt together, but on the other joint, it has this: Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr So I guess it sure couldn't hurt if I added a similar piece to the other one? Vikx, by the factory seamed roof, do you mean with the Pittsburgh joints like I currently have? Is that what I get if I order from someplace like Hemet Valley RV. It may be a while until I'm ready for my roofing materiel though. First I need to fix the rot, and then get the interior fixed. I'm trying to to overwhelm myself
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Oct 10, 2017 12:23:42 GMT -8
I think the Pittsburgh joint is what the siding is held together with. I also think that the S joint is on the roofing.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Oct 10, 2017 16:33:12 GMT -8
Yea yea yea nice camper. Now put some pics of that chevelle up. You can't sneak it in the background and not expect us not to want to see more. 😜
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flameout
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Post by flameout on Oct 11, 2017 15:20:32 GMT -8
It's funny how something like just wanting to replace some bad wood snowballs into what's looking more like it will be a full restoration. I removed the roof supports today and all of the plywood ceiling. Now to start checking some lumber yards for some nice birch to replace it with. Should the new wood be stained and sealed? Here are just a few shots. Not really relevant to anything I guess, but I've just been taking a ton of photos Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr Shasta roof by Bill, on Flickr For Aslmx, I did a frame off restoration of my Chevelle in 2009, and recently did a frame off restoration of a short bed 72 Chevy K-10, but I recently just sold that. I have tons of photos of both, but probably should post too many here Left Quarter 001 by Bill, on Flickr Front mount nuts 018 by Bill, on Flickr Body pre paint 001 by Bill, on Flickr Right quarter removal 031 by Bill, on Flickr Back From Paint 007 by Bill, on Flickr Fall Chevelle Shots 019_cropped by Bill, on Flickr Here's the 72 K-10 20140612_204932 by Bill, on Flickr 20140623_162356 by Bill, on Flickr 20140801_115245 by Bill, on Flickr 20160223_135250 by Bill, on Flickr 72 K10 short bed 4x4 by Bill, on Flickr 20160519_132810 by Bill, on Flickr
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Oct 11, 2017 18:39:37 GMT -8
Awesome thanks for sharing. I love the blue. I've never had the patience for cars. My brother does a lot. He had a 67 chevelle like that, he sold it and did a 69 camaro the one that has the 302 , he sold that one and now has 2- gto's and 70 firebird all in build mode. He's retired so he has a lot more time than me. Your moving along great with your trailer.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Oct 11, 2017 19:51:09 GMT -8
An ex coworker over here has a 66, IIRC, might be a 67, Chevelle SS, pretty much had to do the same with the body on His as what You had to do. His is a 396 four speed. Mighty fine work You did with that and the truck.
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flameout
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Post by flameout on Oct 18, 2017 15:52:17 GMT -8
I'm having trouble finding paneling and plywwod that is a close match to my interior, so today I removed the floor, and now it's down to the frame, ready for some major rust removal and paint. Of course every bolt had to be cut, but I was expecting that. I have a few questions about new floor framing though. My original was protected on the underside with aluminum (between the frame and the 2x2 joists) Do I need to do that with the new floor or will pressure treated/painted wood be okay? Also, can I use 2x4s rather than the 2x2s? My 2x2 were actually 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 and the with of a 2x4 is only 1-1/2". Will that 1/4" be a problem? As for the actual floor, can I use 3/4" to make up that 1/4" lost on framing? And marine grade plywood or just good plywood painted? Now for the wheel wells. Does anyone reproduce them or will I need to find a metal shop to fabricate me a pair? Shasta floor/frame by Bill, on Flickr Shasta floor/frame by Bill, on Flickr Shasta floor/frame by Bill, on Flickr Shasta Wheelwell by Bill, on Flickr On this wheelwell, does it actually rise a bit where the rust is, or should it go straight across, like where the red line is? Shasta Wheelwell by Bill, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Oct 18, 2017 19:41:49 GMT -8
I wouldn't use treated wood at all. The new "treatment" can rot metal, including bolts. I think going with what you have (1 3/4) would be best. Why change it all? Some of your wood looks OK. Also, replace the metal belly with something else. My last trailer I used 1/8 masonite coated on the underside and it is working very well 2 years and going.
The wheel well matches the wheel well framing. You can have it made straight and cut to fit as you continue the build. I have had them fabricated at the local metal shop. Keep the old to match the pattern. The skins will determine the shape for the wheel well framing, then copy with the wheel well metal.
Lastly, Pittsburg seams are slip joint seams. Tack the upper metal lip in place, then slide the lower piece up into the Pittsburg. Once in place, the next lip (lower down)is stapled/tacked and ready for the next piece. S locks are very similar but have a little bump to help lock them in place. Roof seams are factory sealed and double crimped. You should be able to look at your skins to understand the Pittsburgs.
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flameout
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Post by flameout on Oct 20, 2017 6:21:55 GMT -8
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