ckz72reddale
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Sept 26, 2017 10:08:51 GMT -8
Finally bit the bullet and bought a solar charging set up to keep our single size 24 12v battery charged while off grid. We camp quite a bit at an off grid site in the BWCAW, and have borrowed a friend's old, big, heavy set up of 3 panels that totaled 55W. This set up always kept us topped off by mid day, even on cloudy days, although I was pretty on top of following the sun with the panels. So, we opted for a 50W Renogy panel from Amazon, 20 ft of 10 gauge insulated wire to connect to the solar controller to reduce loss on the wires, a 20 amp solar controller that will be housed by the battery to reduce exposure to the weather, and then a short lead in to the battery. My question is, would we need in line fuses in this set up? The set up we borrowed didn't have any, and I have seen many diagrams without them, but ran across 2 diagrams yesterday with a fuse in the lines from the panel to the controller and a fuse in the line from the controller to the battery. Why would you need these? Or do I? I have a 12V self resetting breaker in the battery box on the + wire and 2 circuits in the camper on 15 amp fuses. We only have lights with LED bulbs and a single outlet with USB ports that are powered by the 12V system.
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jukebox
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1961 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by jukebox on Oct 4, 2017 5:41:59 GMT -8
It is essential to fuse the system. Using a fuse between the panel and the controller protects the panel from overload due to a short in that wire section. It is unlikely that the controller is circuit protected internally adequate. Using a fuse between the controller and battery also protects the controller/panel from an overload due to a short. That panel setup is capable of substantial wattage. use OHMS law to calculate the current draw. 55 Watt is still almost 4 amps and that needs to be fused for sure. Using the 10 gauge wire is way overkill for that setup especially for a distance you will be using.
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ckz72reddale
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 8, 2017 7:26:49 GMT -8
Thank you for the reply! I've looked at a couple different in line fuses commercially available that are on 16 AWG with 7 amp fuses. Does that seem appropriate? Also, trying to figure out a quick disconnect system. Is there any reason to not use 2 pin connectors? The panel came supplied with MC4 connectors but, from what I can tell, they are not made to be easily disconnected. My husband thought my 10 Ga wire was absurd, too, but I had it and figured can't hurt, right?
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 9, 2017 6:59:19 GMT -8
The size of the fuse is determined by the load on the circuit. It is also determined by the charge capacity of the solar panel. In this case the charge capacity of the panel is what I would use. What is the charge capacity of the panel. Place an inline fuse " blade type " as used in modern cars in the positive lead between the solar panel and charge controller. Also between the controller and the battery. Go to an automotive parts store and buy an inline fuse holder " blade type " and it will probably have a nice rubber cover too. www.progressiveautomations.com/ca/ac-18?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2bDm0OXj1gIVQZNpCh2qMAReEAQYAyABEgIANPD_BwEYou are using a 50 watt solar panel and a 20 amp controller? Only fuse to the panel ratings and not the controller. A 20 amp controller will probably accept multiple panels. So check the amp output on the panel and fuse to that rating for now. If you add more panels then you can upsize the fuse between the controller and battery. Additional panels will require an additional inline fuse holder and fused to the panel rating.
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Post by bigbill on Oct 9, 2017 8:37:59 GMT -8
A MUST REMEMBER ITEM: FUSE ALL CIRCUITS WITH THE PROPER SIZE FUSE TO PROTECT YOUR WIRING AND EQUIPMENT... Doesn't matter what voltage or power source fuse everything. It is amazing how fast one of these trailers will burn to the ground.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Oct 10, 2017 18:07:52 GMT -8
A MUST REMEMBER ITEM: FUSE ALL CIRCUITS WITH THE PROPER SIZE FUSE TO PROTECT YOUR WIRING AND EQUIPMENT... Doesn't matter what voltage or power source fuse everything. It is amazing how fast one of these trailers will burn to the ground. was about to say the same thing. Size the fuse to protect the wire. I would only size the fuse to 80% of wire capacity. For instance a #12 wire in theory is rated for 20 amps but i would only load it to 16 amps.
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Post by bigbill on Oct 10, 2017 19:35:41 GMT -8
I totally agree with sizing fuses with a safety margin. Fuses, tires, hitches, and about anything else that has a load rating should never be used to maximum rating. Always have a safety margin.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 23, 2017 8:04:15 GMT -8
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Oct 23, 2017 13:49:53 GMT -8
I think the original question was about using a solar panel and charge controller to charge the battery. Fusing circuits from the battery to other loads is a totally different question and totally different answer. Yes the circuit wire has to be adequate for the load it is supporting. The conductor size ( wire ) has to be the correct size to conduct for a specific load ( lights , fridge, water pumps, audio etc.)
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Post by bigbill on Oct 24, 2017 14:04:12 GMT -8
I think the original question was about using a solar panel and charge controller to charge the battery. Fusing circuits from the battery to other loads is a totally different question and totally different answer. Yes the circuit wire has to be adequate for the load it is supporting. The conductor size ( wire ) has to be the correct size to conduct for a specific load ( lights , fridge, water pumps, audio etc.) As I stated above fuse all circuits that flow power, not to protect the end product but to prevent fire in case of any type of short that could occur any place along a wire, these trailers are made from kindling so you can't be to careful.
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Post by vikx on Oct 24, 2017 21:18:13 GMT -8
I agree with Big Bill. You can't be too careful and a fuse never hurts anything...
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ckz72reddale
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 25, 2017 19:14:26 GMT -8
I agree with Big Bill. You can't be too careful and a fuse never hurts anything... Thanks everyone! We are fused up, both in the line from the panel to the charge controller and in the line from the controller to the battery. I would like to splice in a quick disconnect between the charge controller and the panel, onto my overkill 10 GA wire. Anyone have any recommendations for a weather proof option? I think a 2 pin plug won't fit on those wires. SaveSave
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Post by bigbill on Oct 25, 2017 20:12:19 GMT -8
How about a weather proof switch setup?
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ckz72reddale
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Post by ckz72reddale on Oct 26, 2017 9:32:07 GMT -8
How about a weather proof switch setup? What kind of switch? I guess I should be more clear. The solar panel is portable, not mounted to the trailer, so I need to disconnect the actual wires quickly and easily stow the panel away. The charge controller will be housed in a small box mounted on the tongue, with a short 2 pin disconnect to the battery (fused). The long lead (20ft) of 10 ga wire (fused) is so that I can position the panel in the best spot for charging. It will be attached to the leads off of the panel with MC4 connectors, but those aren't made to be repeatedly disconnected, so, next to the charge controller, I would like a quick way to disconnect the wires from each other for stowing. SaveSave
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Post by bigbill on Oct 26, 2017 11:18:25 GMT -8
How about a weather proof switch setup? What kind of switch? I guess I should be more clear. The solar panel is portable, not mounted to the trailer, so I need to disconnect the actual wires quickly and easily stow the panel away. The charge controller will be housed in a small box mounted on the tongue, with a short 2 pin disconnect to the battery (fused). The long lead (20ft) of 10 ga wire (fused) is so that I can position the panel in the best spot for charging. It will be attached to the leads off of the panel with MC4 connectors, but those aren't made to be repeatedly disconnected, so, next to the charge controller, I would like a quick way to disconnect the wires from each other for stowing. SaveSaveI didn't realize the panel was portable. You could install inline fuses on either side of your disconnect plug these are fairly inexpensive. Just keep fuses close to power source (panel) to protect all wiring.
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