fortasha
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Post by fortasha on May 18, 2017 5:16:55 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on May 18, 2017 6:30:59 GMT -8
If you plan on camping off the grid (state parks, etc) you'll need gas heat. More than half of our sites don't have electric.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on May 19, 2017 3:58:46 GMT -8
I agree with NC. We just spent a week in cold rainy weather in a site with no hook ups (our choice $30 vs $53/night) We had heat, light, refrigeration and cooking ability, all run on propane. The furnace does consume 10 amps of 12vdc power, but it only runs for a few minutes at a time. We only have two 100 amp/hr batteries, and I never had to switch to the 2nd one. A 15 watt solar panel acts like a trickle charger while we're away during the day. Even on cloudy days it works pretty well. Led lights draw almost nothing and provide nice white light.
That is a nice looking heater, but you can use a $15 portable one from Walmart and be nice and warm. Remember that when in a campground with electricity you can usually use as much as you want, so efficiency isn't a factor.
I used to be a tent camper, but as I get older comfort rules! I don't really think of our stays in the trailer as "camping".
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Post by vikx on May 19, 2017 20:57:50 GMT -8
Most vintage campers are only 15 amps, which limits what you can run electrically. Electric heaters pull 13 amps on high, so you can't run much else.
All of my trailers have a Wave 3 or a plumbed for one.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on May 31, 2017 11:05:21 GMT -8
That heater runs on 240v or 208v (huh? 208v?). Which I don't think you'll get in any normal U.S. RV park. But if you can find a 120v version, 2000 watts would require 16.7 amps AC. If you have a 30 or 50-amp service in your camper, OK, as long as you're on a hookup. But running it through an inverter off batteries for boondocking, it would suck 167 amps out of your batteries (2000w / 12v = 167a). Need a big battery bank for that... I'd go with gas.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on May 31, 2017 18:17:01 GMT -8
Would you guys like to estimate a guess on how many watts this vintage heater that I just picked up pulls? I am installing all new wiring and electrical. So basically upgrading to 30 amp service. I will need to run some lights, my fridge and this baby off the 30 amp service. There is a sticker on the back. cowcharge are you able to comment from that, on how many amps it will be drawing? Or do I need to do the plug in test on this too?
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on May 31, 2017 18:42:47 GMT -8
Cow is the electricity expert on this forum. I believe that watts divided by volts = amps. In your case, 1302 watts divided by 120 volts = 10.85 amps.
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Post by vikx on May 31, 2017 22:19:04 GMT -8
I would say on High, 13 amps...low, maybe 11. Just a guess
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 1, 2017 13:35:24 GMT -8
11 amps AC if the tag is accurate. Could be more, could be less. Always better to measure. And remember, if you're going to run it off an inverter it's 10:1, so that's 110 DC amps out of the batteries.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 1, 2017 18:26:02 GMT -8
Hmm I didn't know I could run it off the inverter. cowcharge I think the solar challange is going turn into a bit of a fun challange. I enjoy doing the math and trying to build a system that can really go off grid!
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 1, 2017 20:16:22 GMT -8
If you get a big enough battery bank and inverter you can run the Large Hadron Collider off batteries.
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nate
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Post by nate on Nov 29, 2017 18:36:25 GMT -8
Most vintage campers are only 15 amps, which limits what you can run electrically. Electric heaters pull 13 amps on high, so you can't run much else. All of my trailers have a Wave 3 or a plumbed for one. I also am thinking of using the Wave 3 or even the Wave 6. How warm can a Wave 3 heater keep you on, say, a 30 degree day?
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Nov 29, 2017 19:19:35 GMT -8
I don't have any experience with Wave heaters, but I can tell you that in cold weather even just a single Humphrey propane lamp produces enough water vapor to cause significant condensation on interior surfaces like aluminum window frames and glass surfaces. This is in addition to the water vapor from 2 or 3 people breathing in a tiny space. Even with a window or two cracked, we have condensation. For these reasons, I think anyone contemplating camping in cold conditions should only consider a vented heater.
We have an Attwood Hydroflame furnace. Over the Thanksgiving weekend we kept the daytime temp in the camper at 65F, while the outside temp was in the 30's, then cranked it up before bedtime to 70 degrees for an hour or so. Piled on sleeping bags and blankets and shut the furnace off for the night, temps in the 20s. I kept checking the batteries thinking that all that running time would deplete them, but the draw was negligible.
The only downside I can relate to our furnace is that the fan is pretty noisy, cycling on and off many times in an hour. Not a problem while awake, but annoying when trying to sleep which is why we just shut it off at night.
In a campsite with electric hookup, we use a cheapo 120 VAC 1500 watt electric heater, same deal... run while awake, off at night.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 29, 2017 19:51:37 GMT -8
It all depends on the temp inside when you turn on the Wave3 heater. Start it when the camper inside temp is 30 degrees...it will run for a couple hours to pull the temp up to 65. Start with an inside temp at 60 degrees, even if the temp outside is dropping fast, and you'll be toasty warm. If I lived in the Arctic North I'd buy a wave6. "In a campsite with electric hookup, we use a cheapo 120 VAC 1500 watt electric heater, same deal... run while awake, off at night."We do the same as turbodaddy, cheap electric heater for when we're on the grid.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Dec 2, 2017 17:29:28 GMT -8
After a lot of research I bought a New old stock wave 6 heater. I don't mind opening up the vent to let out the condensation. I'm Canadian, thats how Teepees work, igloos too... vent hole for the condensation and excess fumes!
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