roktac
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Post by roktac on Apr 17, 2017 8:28:13 GMT -8
I unfortunately need to retire my Shasta... not sure what happened but can't get the ground to work properly. I figure the best idea is to just rewire the whole thing (I know should have just done this when I had the skin off, but didn't realize there was a wiring issue) Is there anyone who has the wiring layout for my Shasta or know where I can look it up. Worst part was the Shasta was basically done, and now I will have to pull the back skin off again! Thanks for any help.
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azshastanut
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Post by azshastanut on Apr 17, 2017 10:07:37 GMT -8
All of us have gotten the cart before the horse a time or two so don't feel alone. Pulling the rear skin is not all that difficult or time consuming. I would suggest that you run an independent ground lead to each of your lights. As far as I know there isn't a wiring diagram, but it is pretty simple and straight forward. What year and model is your Shasta?
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Apr 17, 2017 10:11:21 GMT -8
58 airflyte , thanks for the info... I have taken the skin off before I just didn't want to have to do it again. I am far from an electrician so I'll probably just replace all of the wires, and a ground lead for each light as suggested
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Post by vikx on Apr 17, 2017 20:33:03 GMT -8
The ground in a 58 isn't that good. Try a new ground to the frame at the front and a small ground wire from each skin to the frame. (skin screw to trailer frame) The skins were used as a ground for the tow lights and worked well when new. It's just a matter of being sure each skin is married/grounded to the frame.
I honestly don't think you need to pull the skins. I've rewired many times without doing that.
Start with the grounds (white wire at the plug) as above. The lights won't have a ground wire, so anything extra is not usually a ground. (unless a PO was messing with the wiring) There are only 3 more wires in the system. Test one at a time WITHOUT connecting to the tow vehicle.
It's best to disconnect the actual lights before testing:
If your trailer has a 4 way connector, the Tails and Markers are Brown at the plug. (not necessarily the trailer wiring; in my 57s TM wire is green) If a 7 way, the TM wire is Green. Figure out which wire is TM and test continuity from front to back at one of the Tail lights. You may need a long jumper or another pair of hands.
When you have the correct wire and continuity, that's one down.
Your other two wires are the turns. In my 57s, the left turn was Red and the right was black/dark brown. Hard to tell.
I hope this helps. Again, do NOT use the tow vehicle to test the trailer wiring. A portable jump battery will provide power if you need to energize the wires.
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Apr 24, 2017 12:33:33 GMT -8
Thanks Vikx! I will def look into that... some of it is over my head , why can't it be tested while connected to the tow vehicle? I'll get a battery for the trailer and connect it up. I might just rewire it all and hopefully I can get the wires connected without removing the skin. Always learning ... and can't wait for my next trailer project, when this one is done... been eyeing and older can ham that's been sitting in a neighbors yard for a few years. Just can't figure out how to break the ice and make an offer ..yet!
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Post by vikx on Apr 24, 2017 22:33:40 GMT -8
Using a tow vehicle to test tow lighting compounds your problems. If even one little thing is off with the vehicle, it means your trailer is going to be doing weird light dances...
So, use a battery to test the trailer. Ground it the frame and I mean GROUND IT. Touch each tow wire to the hot side and see what works. Label as you go. Remember, there's only 3 wires you need to identify; TM, RT and LT. If one works, (say LT) that means you've got two to go... If nothing works, you've got a ground problem.
Things to consider:
If a wire SPARKS a lot, it is probably the ground or shorted. Disconnect immediately. Yeah, I've put a screw thru my brand new wiring...
Sometimes, a person connects the tail light wires incorrectly. (most have no ground wire but rely on the base plate for a ground) If one of the two hot tail wires is connected to ground, things will not behave.
Connections inside wall cavities fail often. If your trailer has them, it is something to think about.
Test first and then we can troubleshoot.
By the way, I had a fuse blow in my Trailblazer when connecting my "new" Red Dale. Turned out to be one tiny copper hair shorting the light out...
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 24, 2017 22:52:22 GMT -8
Good advice I think I will do this to test my new wiring before we Reskin it
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Jun 20, 2017 9:15:55 GMT -8
Does anyone know where to get no. 99 backing plates for my 58 Shasta? They are out of stock on vintage trailer supply. Figured I should replace them since the old wires are so brittle. I have decided to run new wiring for my Shasta, found a few wires that were simply disconnected, which I am sure was the problem with the lights, but since I am on there I might as well put new stuff in. Seem a previous owner changed out the wires some time back, and changed the colors... so I'm a little confused on which light bulb is the blinker, running light and brake light. I'll get a picture to show, I have no doubt one of y'all know the answer.
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Post by vikx on Jun 20, 2017 22:35:09 GMT -8
Bargman 99s:
If the old backing plates are OK, see if you can find new pigtails for the sockets. Try to find them locally because some new stuff is metric and not an exact fit. Try them before buying...
The only self made solution to a Bargman base is a paint can lid. I've done it, but the metal is thin and apt to rust. I painted it well and used a cheap taillight from Walmart as the guts.
PM me for my email and photos. It's not ideal, but works.
The blinker and brake wire are the same. The running wire is separate, so there's 2 wires. To test the light, ground the socket and touch each wire to a 12 volt source. The brighter light is Turn/Brake.
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Jun 21, 2017 7:35:59 GMT -8
Thanks vikx, as always you see, to have great ideas... I'll pm you , again thanks
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Jun 25, 2017 10:08:51 GMT -8
On the no 99 set up there are two bulbs, 1- smaller with 1 wire, 2- larger with 2 wires, which one is the running, brake and signal bulb? I've got the wires ready to attack, but it was a mess when I cleaned up the old wires, so of course being not very electronic savvy I wanted to check here before I start connecting .... thanks and sorry for all the questions
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Post by vikx on Jun 25, 2017 21:13:33 GMT -8
The smaller with 1 wire is TM. (Tail/Marker)
The double wired pigtail has TM and a turn, either RT or LT.
I believe the single wired socket was an extra TM and also lit the license plate. Many trailers have one light plate with two sockets and the other has a single socket.
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roktac
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Post by roktac on Jul 26, 2017 21:05:11 GMT -8
Quick update, first thanks again for the info. I finally got my wiring all done and she's ready for the next and final step! Paint. .... ok so maybe not the fInal step, need to repolish the eyebrows .... but almost done, thanks again for the help/advise
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