mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 6:07:13 GMT -8
Oh yeah. Seeing as how I had already ripped one of those treated 2X10s into 2X2s I thought, what now am I going to do with those 2X2s, then a thought, i know. seeing as hiw I had just re~built My machinery shed, I will use those 2X2s and build a green house on the south side of that shed. i do have a roll of visqueen that has been laying around here for about 15 years. LOL
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 6:49:14 GMT -8
I think that now, with the wait for the lumber that I will pull the old wiring and install new. I am not going to install that 12 volt convertor thing. Just going to run the battery and switch over to LED lights for the interior. For the tail and marker lights too. A friend has a truck repair shop with a lot of semi trailers in all sorts of conditions, also has a bunch of partially scrapped out mobile homes. I am wondering about roofing, if I was to go out there and remove a portion of roofing from one of those trailers or from the mobile homes if I could make My own roofing material, a solid one piece unit. Any suggestions ?
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 9:24:28 GMT -8
Went out to Brush Truck Repair. Asked Shorty about buying a piece of an old trailer house top or semi trailer top. All He would talk about was getting some of this rubberized fabric stuff that is glued down and anchored with an edging along the edges. Said it`d last longer than Me and never leak. He had a 5th wheel camper that had been in a tornado that he hauled in with His wrecker. i looked at the stuff on top, it almost looked like dull aluminum. Has anyone had any experience with this stuff ?
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 10:50:34 GMT -8
Now, another thing I do not know. Should I cancel the order on that Lauan plywood stuff ? The campers frame works is plenty substantial that I do not feel that it would need the extra stability of the plywood between the siding/roof and the frame. Then, what about a moisture barrier between the roofing and the styrophoam insulation ? Use visqueen or Tyvek ? I`ll work on the wiring for a while and then check back to see what You guys think.
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msgoehring
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Post by msgoehring on Nov 7, 2016 11:37:35 GMT -8
First, I've never heard of the rubberized fabric, maybe another member has and can speak more about it. I just know that all the gunk that has been applied to some of these roofs has never been any help. If anything they only make more problems by trapping water between the gunk and the aluminum and spreading it further making new leaks. I would just get some of the metal off a semi trailer cause it's most likely to be thicker than from a motor home or anything.
Then I'm going to stay away from the Luan discussion cause I already embarrassed myself. But I don't see a problem with replacing the outside paneling and covering it with tyvek, never visqueen because it can't breathe which traps moisture. Use something builders would use to wrap a house in.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 12:36:10 GMT -8
Ahh, I found it online, the roofing stuff. It is called EDPM. Here is the description and a pricing guide. It would take less than 30 feet to do My camper. Click the CLICK
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 12:49:57 GMT -8
First, I've never heard of the rubberized fabric, maybe another member has and can speak more about it. I just know that all the gunk that has been applied to some of these roofs has never been any help. If anything they only make more problems by trapping water between the gunk and the aluminum and spreading it further making new leaks. I would just get some of the metal off a semi trailer cause it's most likely to be thicker than from a motor home or anything. Then I'm going to stay away from the Luan discussion cause I already embarrassed myself. But I don't see a problem with replacing the outside paneling and covering it with tyvek, never visqueen because it can't breathe which traps moisture. Use something builders would use to wrap a house in. Please do not feel embarrassed. Your opinions really do matter to Me.
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msgoehring
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Post by msgoehring on Nov 7, 2016 12:56:34 GMT -8
Marty, after seeing the price I had to do more searching before answering because that amount is much more than I'm paying for a new seamless aluminum roof in .30. Maybe this information will help: repairingyesterdaystrailers.yuku.com/topic/1327#.WCDojuxlDMIKnowing it is so sensitive and not guaranteed for long, I don't see it worth the money.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 12:58:38 GMT -8
Working on the wiring. The insulation appears to be in very good condition. Do not let that fool anyone. I used My wire strippers and tried stripping back a little of the insulation, the strands are all greenish and corroded, and what a mess. What three wires could do they had six. Wires running everywhere and some to no where. LOL
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 17:36:50 GMT -8
Marty, after seeing the price I had to do more searching before answering because that amount is much more than I'm paying for a new seamless aluminum roof in .30. Maybe this information will help: repairingyesterdaystrailers.yuku.com/topic/1327#.WCDojuxlDMIKnowing it is so sensitive and not guaranteed for long, I don't see it worth the money. Thank you msgoehring for Your research. For some reason I thought that the aluminum roofing would be much more expensive than that. I read through quite a few of those posts and it seems that the EDPM just is not an option for Me. I want My grand children and who knows, maybe even My great grand childrens to be able to enjoy this camper without having to rebuild or to scrap it out. i am sort of optimistic in that sense though. LOL I will be looking for another old semi trailer that is wrecked or someone is scrapping out and see if I can get a sheet of aluminum. Shorty has a bunch of those old semi trailers in all sorts of bad conditions, wrecked, scrapped and etc; I dont know why He would not talk about selling Me a piece of a roof. Always went to that EDPM stuff.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 7, 2016 20:04:28 GMT -8
Now, another thing I do not know. Should I cancel the order on that Lauan plywood stuff ? The campers frame works is plenty substantial that I do not feel that it would need the extra stability of the plywood between the siding/roof and the frame. Then, what about a moisture barrier between the roofing and the styrophoam insulation ? Use visqueen or Tyvek ? I`ll work on the wiring for a while and then check back to see what You guys think. There is always a lot of swapping this material for that material as we repair 50 year old campers. If it was me, I wouldn't use the luan. It raises too many issues when you start reassembling the camper not to mention the bend-ability question. I'm no expert but I think it's either quality material that's bendable and the exact thickness, no thicker, or not at all. It's a game of planning 6 steps ahead. If you remove the plywood exterior you need to make sure the inside panels are solid. No rotten edges. Then there is the roof...easy to trim 1/4" off the side walls to compensate but not that easy if it effects how the window depth works out. Which leads to the door jam, can it be trimmed to fit? If no, then you might consider shimming the side walls to keep them as thick. I did something similar on a camper recently for the roof adding 1/4", glued and stapled, plywood to each rafter. Then, then, then... So my advice, move slowly enough to anticipate issues. Know what I mean? As far as rubberized membrane under the roof aluminum is concerned I wouldn't do it because, unlike a truck, water vapor in a camper is produced inside as well. (Think boiling spaghetti and breathing.) I use Tyvek because it is designed to let vapor out and slow water trying to get in. Slow, not stop. Again, trade-offs. Others will have different ideas. As for wiring, I think when in doubt throw it out. Romex is cheap enough and if you don't do it and have issues later you'll be kicking yourself. Making your own roofing may work if you stretch a piece from the front edge to the rear edge. One giant piece. As you know, without S-locks or Pittsburgh seams you don't have the option of keeping the smaller pieces around and under the windows. Have fun.
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Post by vikx on Nov 7, 2016 21:02:06 GMT -8
We learn something new every day. I'm thinking you may be right on the homebuilt idea. That's OK, you will still have a nice trailer when you're done. I agree on skipping the plywood. Seems like it would add unnecessary weight.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 21:44:15 GMT -8
I will see if I can cancel the order on the plywood and skip that step. If I cant cancel the order{they already have My C.C. info} then I will go ahead and get it then, gut the inside too and replace the paneling in there. There is mold a growing and some places having separation issues with the plywood paneling.
Who knows, maybe I will end up making this thing looking better than the house. LOL with some of the projects I have looked at it about sets Me to drooooling. LOL
about venting, trying to figure out how the top can be vented without compromising the sealing capabilities. About six inches down on the outside walls, two towards the front and two towards the back is these little vent louvers. In the walls, there is no possible for them to vent anything except for the area immediately behind them. On the top, the rafters run across and also the length wise. I was thinking of grinding a small channel{ maybe an 1/8th"} into the rafters/ceiling joists between the roof sections, then in the top corners and down into the walls and channeling between the wall sections so that there might be some air movement between the sections. Albeit it would be a very small amount of air but any little bit helps, I think.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 7, 2016 21:59:28 GMT -8
One of My helpers. There are three of them. i`ll get pics. of the other two later. This ones main hobby is wiring. YUP, got to keep a close watch on this guy. He loves chewing on small round wires, phone charger wires comes to mind. LOL Once told NO ! ! ! ! though, he will never go back to THAT wire. haaaahaaaaahaaa. IMG_2843 by Martin Draper, on Flickr
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 9, 2016 7:15:50 GMT -8
I took three 1/4 inch bolts about an inch long and welded them to the trailers frame for grounding lugs. When I get that far, I am running two wires to the trailers exterior lights and each light will be grounded to one of those lugs. I always like to insure that any of My trailers will have an absolute grounding source to the wehicles lighting supply. I also have a ground lug welded to the pickups frame. The failure and problems with most all signal/tail lamp wiring, and even the trailers brakes is a poor source of grounding. I also smear on some of this stuff from Truck-Lite, it is an NYK corrosion preventive sort of a grease stuff. I think that the corrosion preventive that can be purchased from a store where wiring is sold will work as well. Usually that stuff is to smear on aluminum wiring to prevent it from corroding but I see no reason why it would not work on wire terminals and grounding lugs too. Can not really go any farther on lighting or anything else until I get the materials, especially the 1-1/2s X 1-1/2s. LOL How can they callum a 2X2 when they are not that. LOLOLOL
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