mel
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Post by mel on Oct 24, 2016 15:00:12 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Oct 24, 2016 15:44:37 GMT -8
Snow in the Midwest? You will be there to clear it off daily? Or hourly?
#4 looks strongest at a glance but a real lean-to makes more sense. A stick built structure, or metal like Larry's, can handle a few feet of snow. Mine cost about $1000 for lumber and I got the tin for free. It took about a week to build.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 24, 2016 15:52:37 GMT -8
To make taller, I have contemplated driving some posts into the ground, slipping the carport legs over them and bolting together. Would help with wind stability too. I don't have to worry about snow, but I wonder if you couldn't reinforce the roof with plywood or just a few 2x4. For horse barns, I've seen plywood attached to pipes by drilling holes in the wood and using pipe clamps.
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Post by bigbill on Oct 25, 2016 4:56:25 GMT -8
A word of caution. In our city they have outlawed the canvas type garages/carports and many people don't know this until they purchase and put one up then are ordered to remove it, so make sure what ever you do is legal or you might be wasting your money.
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msgoehring
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Post by msgoehring on Oct 25, 2016 6:47:09 GMT -8
If you're really serious about wanting to use one of those that you showed, I'll ask Sam how he raised ours so the trailer fit underneath. I know he had to go buy some type of pipes and then pounded them into the ground and slid the original poles in securing them with bolts and nuts. But I worry that the flimsy material won't hold up to a bunch of snow. We don't get a lot here anymore like we did when I was a kid, so don't have to worry about snow load with ours.
Also, by raising the port to make clearance for the trailer, he made it so the door doesn't come all the way to the ground and snow can get blown in all the way around it.
I don't mean to be such a downer on your ideas, I just want you to be safe. I've never seen a winter in person anywhere but Idaho and Washington, but I hear Michigan winters can get really bad.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Oct 25, 2016 6:51:06 GMT -8
Good advice, bigbill. Way back when we put up our portable garage, we got notice that we were supposed to have a permit to put it up, even though it was a temporary structure. We don't even live in a "neighborhood"... but the town had to have their cut. We paid the $35 for the permit a month after it was standing. The permit might even still be in the front window..... Anyway, we bought ours through this site: sheltersofamerica.com/They have everything from woodshed shelters to cattle barns, all temporary structures. I would add that in my experience, by the time you find anything that is heavy enough to withstand winter weather, you can get an awful lot invested in it. I spent hundreds on extras...anchors, rope, chains, tie-down hardware...just to keep it from blowing away. You may be further ahead to invest up front in a metal carport. We have one that measures 18' X 21', we ordered the heavier gauge framing, and it was less than $1500 delivered and set up.
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mel
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Post by mel on Oct 25, 2016 6:55:06 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Oct 25, 2016 7:19:22 GMT -8
My son bought one of the HF 10X17 ones used this summer and I just put it up yesterday. We are hoping just to get through the winter with it to keep the snow off the kids' toys. My toys won't fit.
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mel
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Post by mel on Oct 25, 2016 14:52:16 GMT -8
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Oct 25, 2016 15:29:10 GMT -8
This isn't exactly what you're discussing, but for what it is worth, this is my "workshop" which came with the place when we bought 3 years ago. It is a steel building 10'x 13' and it had many holes in the roof. So 3 years ago I built a framework of 1"x3" strapping and covered it with a doubled up tarp, hoping it would hold up for the winter. The thing is still intact! What might be relevant to your quest is the steep angle I built into the roof...the snow just slides right off every time! So maybe you could build a frame-like structure like mine to sit on top of the camper to shed snow?
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msgoehring
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Post by msgoehring on Oct 25, 2016 16:47:53 GMT -8
very handy turbo.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Oct 26, 2016 11:55:52 GMT -8
I need to buy someone to store my compact under for winter, it would surly get ruined in a MI winter with out something. My main concern is the weight of the snow sitting on top of it, especially because the skin is not on right now. I have a tarp on but I just dont think that is enough. Looking for a cheaper option at the moment, as we plan to do something more permanent in the future. Here are a few of the things I was thinking of, I know height is an issue, so if anyone knows of one tall enough, that would be very helpful. If not ideas for how to make options taller are welcome. I'm in NM where the snow comes and goes quickly and is light and dry… I still have to be vigilant about clearing the roof of my light weight shelter. I poke at the underside with a broom handle and the dry snow slides pretty easily off the bowed (not A frame) vinyl roof. In your climate, I would not take a chance on such a light structure. Even if you supplemented the roof with plywood, the vertical tubular columns would tend to bend and possibly buckle 'cuz that's what's transferring the load to the ground. You would not want your shelter to collapse on your trailer… that would be a mess and probably damage your trailer. You may need to go to one of the steel frame and corrugated sheet metal shelters. I think they go for just short of $1K. They don't necessarily need concrete footings. One thing about these structures, whether light weight or heavier duty is that the typical A frame structures are not tall enough to accommodate the height of most trailers, so you have to do some modifications, like I did, to make the structure taller. I also made modifications to keep it from blowing away in strong winds . I'll post some pictures shortly, the Photobucket site appears to be down right now.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Oct 26, 2016 15:24:39 GMT -8
My light weight shelter. It can hold at least a foot of dry New Mexican snow, before I feel compelled to knock it all off
I built up the height of the structure by stacking these concrete blocks and bolting heavy duty receivers to them. I also strapped the top block to the bottom to discourage sliding in high winds. Also, there are driven spikes (not very visible) on all four sides of the base block to prevent sliding.
Another view of the block base assembly. There are six of these around the trailer; one for each column. They also at least triple to quadruple the weight of the shelter, which helps keep it on the ground! At each of four corners, there are high tension straps looped around the perimeter horizontal structure, attached at the ground to 15" spiral anchors twisted into the earth. The straps are ratcheted and they literally hold the structure to the ground and also minimize side to side racking of the whole shelter. This is the most important part of the modifications. I also later added these mesh panels on 3 out of 4 sides (the 4th side is within 18" of a continuous fence… so it's quite weather protected there). These protect against summer hail storms and keep the trailer surprisingly clean and protected from rain. As a side benefit, they also add stability to the entire structure. Through these modifications, I 'tuned' the shelter so that it is just flexible enough for components to move a little, but not break.
The whole structure cost less than $400 including the modifications and additional materials. It's light weight, has stood up to some very strong winds, and can be taken apart easily and moved. It fits the trailer like a glove, but without touching it like a conventional cover does. The shelter footprint is 9'X16', which is atypical; they're usually 10'X20'. Needless to say, I've had to get very good at parking the trailer precisely in reverse Typically, I leave the mesh panel at the door rolled up and fastened above out of the way so I can have easy access to the interior.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 26, 2016 18:46:37 GMT -8
That reminded me to mention, ours is 10x20, But we only used 2/3 of it, so the 10x13 perfectly covers the trailer body. We have it on blocks as well and should really add $20 worth of ratchet tie downs rather than just removing the top every time it blows
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mel
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Post by mel on Oct 27, 2016 4:05:35 GMT -8
My light weight shelter. It can hold at least a foot of dry New Mexican snow, before I feel compelled to knock it all off
I built up the height of the structure by stacking these concrete blocks and bolting heavy duty receivers to them. I also strapped the top block to the bottom to discourage sliding in high winds. Also, there are driven spikes (not very visible) on all four sides of the base block to prevent sliding.
Another view of the block base assembly. There are six of these around the trailer; one for each column. They also at least triple to quadruple the weight of the shelter, which helps keep it on the ground! At each of four corners, there are high tension straps looped around the perimeter horizontal structure, attached at the ground to 15" spiral anchors twisted into the earth. The straps are ratcheted and they literally hold the structure to the ground and also minimize side to side racking of the whole shelter. This is the most important part of the modifications. I also later added these mesh panels on 3 out of 4 sides (the 4th side is within 18" of a continuous fence… so it's quite weather protected there). These protect against summer hail storms and keep the trailer surprisingly clean and protected from rain. As a side benefit, they also add stability to the entire structure. Through these modifications, I 'tuned' the shelter so that it is just flexible enough for components to move a little, but not break.
The whole structure cost less than $400 including the modifications and additional materials. It's light weight, has stood up to some very strong winds, and can be taken apart easily and moved. It fits the trailer like a glove, but without touching it like a conventional cover does. The shelter footprint is 9'X16', which is atypical; they're usually 10'X20'. Needless to say, I've had to get very good at parking the trailer precisely in reverse Typically, I leave the mesh panel at the door rolled up and fastened above out of the way so I can have easy access to the interior. That looks great, I like how secure you made it. I havent seen that style before, where did you buy it? do you have a link to the page?
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