Post by vikx on Jul 15, 2016 20:49:21 GMT -8
Take Care of your Trailer!
Below you will find instructions on the care and maintenance of a vintage trailer. They are prone to damage that can be hard to repair with parts unavailable. A little extra care goes a long way. Treat the trailer gently.
DOORS, WINDOWS and CABINETS: open and shut carefully.
Do not use force, it there is resistance, find out WHY. A minor adjustment will prevent breakage. Doors should never be slammed. Instead, use the knob/handle and be sure it clicks shut. Use the entry door keeper so it doesn’t blow shut or open against the trailer skin. Be sure door is secured before travel. A shoestring is good extra protection.
The same goes for windows; open and shut gently. Be sure jalousie glass panes are in place and snug. Overtightening a window crank is not necessary. If the window appears to be cracked open, push lightly on the outside frame to get a tight fit.
NOTE: Vintage windows can leak, especially when traveling in inclement weather. Towel up any dampness as soon as possible.
PROPANE: Check the system before turning on the tanks. A cover is advised in direct sun.
See that all knobs are in the ‘Off” position.
Turn the tanks on slowly. The OPD valve will trip closed when sensing a sudden difference in pressure. Note: old style tanks are not refillable and should be traded in for a full OPD tank. Walmart offers this service.
If you smell gas, STOP. Turn the tanks off (do not over tighten!) Hire a professional to inspect the LP system.
If all is well, you can proceed. Light a stove top burner first, using a BBQ lighter. This gets gas in the system. It can take 30 to 45 seconds for the burner to light if the gas has been off for a while.
Check the tank hold downs before travel.
Note on gas lights: the mantle should be rated at high BTUs (not Coleman lantern) Once burned in, the mantle is very delicate. Often, it will disintegrate during travel. Have extra mantles on hand.
At the tank: there are two methods of connection.
Old style propane tanks have left handed internal threads. This means you insert and tighten the brass POL threaded connector to the left or counterclockwise. Over tightening is not necessary and can damage the fitting and tank. To remove the POL for tank filling, turn clockwise or to the right. The POL goes into the tank threads. A POL requires a ⅞” wrench.
If you have a large Acme end on your LP hose, you tighten to the right. Acmes are often green or black; it is a large knob such as a BBQ would have. It screws onto the external right handed threads on the tank. Hand tighten snuggly, do not over tighten.
A battery operated CO detector is often used when using propane inside the trailer.
GENERAL ELECTRICAL:
Be sure that all electrical fixtures are safe from stored items. Nothing should touch the wiring or fixtures. A rub in the wrong place could mean no lighting or in some cases, cause a fire. Do not place anything close to the Breaker panel, cigar plug or on top of electrical boxes. Leave a space around all fixtures.
The battery maintainer or converter must have ventilation. There are fins in the case that provide this. Remember to protect the maintainer and leave ample space around the unit.
Vintage lights are delicate. Take care when removing lenses and replacing bulbs. Gently does it! Use fluorescent bulbs or LEDs in the fixture. Do not use incandescent bulbs, they can burn shades and scorch wiring.
BATTERY: Inspect the battery before every trip and once a month during storage:
Remove the caps and add distilled water if necessary. Water should cover the plates.
Clean cable connections.
Be sure Battery is secure for travel.
Check that the maintainer or converter is working properly. (The manual will help here.)
12 VOLT NOTES:
There is a small self resetting breaker protecting the 12 volt wiring system. It is usually found in the J box near the tongue or in the dinette. Most vintage trailer breakers are rated at 20 amps and will trip in case of shorts or reverse polarity. Know the location of the breaker so that it can be replaced if failure occurs. If you have no 12 volt power in the trailer, check the ground first, then the breaker.
PLUMBING: Use a 45 PSI water regulator when connected to city water via a hose. This prevents damage to the lines and pump. They are available at Walmart or RV shops.
Turn faucet handles gently. Repair a drippy faucet rather than over tightening. Small washers are available at hardware stores and repairs are very simple.
Check for leaks and drips EVERY Trip. This will prevent water damage. Check faucet connections, sink drain(s), the water tank fill and drain as well as connections at the pump.
Fill the water tank slowly. A vintage fill is not usually vented, preventing fast fill. Be patient, it takes a while. Fill the tank close to the top of the the fill hose height. Water trapped in the fill hose can drip. Some tanks have added vents. They will either stick straight up above the tank or drop thru the floor. Overfilling the tank could result in vent overflow.
Winterize before freezing weather. This involves air blowing the lines and faucets, opening low point drains (if present) and emptying the fresh water tank. Run the pump dry until it gurgles. Drain hand pumps by moving the handle to drain position. Sometimes RV antifreeze is necessary to protect traps and lines. Winterizing kits make it easy to add antifreeze in colder climes. Poor a little antifreeze in each trap.
SCREWS and HARDWARE:
NEVER DRIVE A NAIL OR SCREW WITHOUT CHECKING YOUR PHOTOS for wiring locates. If you don't have photos, try to find the wall studs. Use short nails and drive carefully. You can usually feel if there is a space that shouldn't be there.
Do not overtighten screws. That last extra hard twist is very likely to strip the attachment. Aluminum skins are particularly prone to damage from over tightened screws. Once the hole is enlarged, repair is necessary. Never overtighten screws.
Cabinet doors should shut easily and stay closed during travel. Adjust as necessary and replace or repair broken latches. A swinging cabinet door will damage the woodwork. You can also tie them shut. A padded stick run thru drawer pulls helps as well.
Table attachments can be broken if force is used. Do not put heavy weight on the table, it may collapse. One sided weight can damage the table leg. Do not sit on the table. Some tables are used as dinette bed supports. If that is the case, cover the table top with a fender protector or pad before dropping the seats.
Add ons should not be attached to the exterior trailer body.
HITCHES and JACKS:
Towing: Vintage trailer couplers come in two sizes, either 1 7/8” or 2”, be sure you have the proper size ball. The vehicle ball mount should be the proper height to level the trailer. A good height to start would be 19" at the top of the ball. It will drop approximately 2 to 3 inches as the trailer is lowered. Inspect coupler and place a clip or bolt to lock onto the ball. There are many different latches; know what type you have and secure the coupler. Be sure the jack is all the way up before towing.
Unhooking: The coupler on the trailer rests on the tow ball of your vehicle. It has a latch to secure it to the ball. Be sure the latch is “open” before winding the jack to disconnect the trailer. If the jack catches or seems very difficult to wind, STOP. The coupler may be closed on the trailer ball. If the jack is at it’s limit, continuing to wind it will cause damage. Drop the jack back down, double check the coupler and try to lift the trailer again. Sometimes, you can put your weight on the vehicle ball mount. This will help loosen the ball and coupler.
Lift steps into tow position and stow stack jacks before travel. Be sure wheel lug nuts are tight and tires are the proper PSI. Note: it is best not to use mounted steps as they put strain on the trailer attachments. Use a sturdy stool instead.
LOCKS AND KEYS:
Use a coupler lock if the trailer will be unhitched from the vehicle. Thievery of vintage trailers is common… Also, lock your safety chain thru the propane tank(s) and possibly add one around the battery case. Taking a wheel off the trailer is a great theft deterrent.
Always have two sets of keys for the trailer. A good place to hide the 2nd set is inside a cargo compartment. Stow a spare cargo key in a magnetic container on the trailer frame. You will never be locked out!
Do not force your keys. They can break inside the lock making for expensive repairs.
MAINTENANCE: Once a year:
The roof and vent should be inspected. Check around the vent flange and insure that the edge trim is tight to the body with no gaps. Tiny gaps grow during a freeze/thaw cycle. OSI gutter sealant will seal small flaws very well.
Inspect the body for damage. Again, OSI gutter seal is ideal for small dings and holes.
Use a lubricant on locks, hinges, at the coupler and other metal to metal moving parts.
Inspect the trailer undercarriage and belly. Air the tires. Touch up the belly coating.
Vintage trailers are easy to take care of. The systems are simple and it takes little effort to have a happy camping experience.
Take care of your trailer!
Below you will find instructions on the care and maintenance of a vintage trailer. They are prone to damage that can be hard to repair with parts unavailable. A little extra care goes a long way. Treat the trailer gently.
DOORS, WINDOWS and CABINETS: open and shut carefully.
Do not use force, it there is resistance, find out WHY. A minor adjustment will prevent breakage. Doors should never be slammed. Instead, use the knob/handle and be sure it clicks shut. Use the entry door keeper so it doesn’t blow shut or open against the trailer skin. Be sure door is secured before travel. A shoestring is good extra protection.
The same goes for windows; open and shut gently. Be sure jalousie glass panes are in place and snug. Overtightening a window crank is not necessary. If the window appears to be cracked open, push lightly on the outside frame to get a tight fit.
NOTE: Vintage windows can leak, especially when traveling in inclement weather. Towel up any dampness as soon as possible.
PROPANE: Check the system before turning on the tanks. A cover is advised in direct sun.
See that all knobs are in the ‘Off” position.
Turn the tanks on slowly. The OPD valve will trip closed when sensing a sudden difference in pressure. Note: old style tanks are not refillable and should be traded in for a full OPD tank. Walmart offers this service.
If you smell gas, STOP. Turn the tanks off (do not over tighten!) Hire a professional to inspect the LP system.
If all is well, you can proceed. Light a stove top burner first, using a BBQ lighter. This gets gas in the system. It can take 30 to 45 seconds for the burner to light if the gas has been off for a while.
Check the tank hold downs before travel.
Note on gas lights: the mantle should be rated at high BTUs (not Coleman lantern) Once burned in, the mantle is very delicate. Often, it will disintegrate during travel. Have extra mantles on hand.
At the tank: there are two methods of connection.
Old style propane tanks have left handed internal threads. This means you insert and tighten the brass POL threaded connector to the left or counterclockwise. Over tightening is not necessary and can damage the fitting and tank. To remove the POL for tank filling, turn clockwise or to the right. The POL goes into the tank threads. A POL requires a ⅞” wrench.
If you have a large Acme end on your LP hose, you tighten to the right. Acmes are often green or black; it is a large knob such as a BBQ would have. It screws onto the external right handed threads on the tank. Hand tighten snuggly, do not over tighten.
A battery operated CO detector is often used when using propane inside the trailer.
GENERAL ELECTRICAL:
Be sure that all electrical fixtures are safe from stored items. Nothing should touch the wiring or fixtures. A rub in the wrong place could mean no lighting or in some cases, cause a fire. Do not place anything close to the Breaker panel, cigar plug or on top of electrical boxes. Leave a space around all fixtures.
The battery maintainer or converter must have ventilation. There are fins in the case that provide this. Remember to protect the maintainer and leave ample space around the unit.
Vintage lights are delicate. Take care when removing lenses and replacing bulbs. Gently does it! Use fluorescent bulbs or LEDs in the fixture. Do not use incandescent bulbs, they can burn shades and scorch wiring.
BATTERY: Inspect the battery before every trip and once a month during storage:
Remove the caps and add distilled water if necessary. Water should cover the plates.
Clean cable connections.
Be sure Battery is secure for travel.
Check that the maintainer or converter is working properly. (The manual will help here.)
12 VOLT NOTES:
There is a small self resetting breaker protecting the 12 volt wiring system. It is usually found in the J box near the tongue or in the dinette. Most vintage trailer breakers are rated at 20 amps and will trip in case of shorts or reverse polarity. Know the location of the breaker so that it can be replaced if failure occurs. If you have no 12 volt power in the trailer, check the ground first, then the breaker.
PLUMBING: Use a 45 PSI water regulator when connected to city water via a hose. This prevents damage to the lines and pump. They are available at Walmart or RV shops.
Turn faucet handles gently. Repair a drippy faucet rather than over tightening. Small washers are available at hardware stores and repairs are very simple.
Check for leaks and drips EVERY Trip. This will prevent water damage. Check faucet connections, sink drain(s), the water tank fill and drain as well as connections at the pump.
Fill the water tank slowly. A vintage fill is not usually vented, preventing fast fill. Be patient, it takes a while. Fill the tank close to the top of the the fill hose height. Water trapped in the fill hose can drip. Some tanks have added vents. They will either stick straight up above the tank or drop thru the floor. Overfilling the tank could result in vent overflow.
Winterize before freezing weather. This involves air blowing the lines and faucets, opening low point drains (if present) and emptying the fresh water tank. Run the pump dry until it gurgles. Drain hand pumps by moving the handle to drain position. Sometimes RV antifreeze is necessary to protect traps and lines. Winterizing kits make it easy to add antifreeze in colder climes. Poor a little antifreeze in each trap.
SCREWS and HARDWARE:
NEVER DRIVE A NAIL OR SCREW WITHOUT CHECKING YOUR PHOTOS for wiring locates. If you don't have photos, try to find the wall studs. Use short nails and drive carefully. You can usually feel if there is a space that shouldn't be there.
Do not overtighten screws. That last extra hard twist is very likely to strip the attachment. Aluminum skins are particularly prone to damage from over tightened screws. Once the hole is enlarged, repair is necessary. Never overtighten screws.
Cabinet doors should shut easily and stay closed during travel. Adjust as necessary and replace or repair broken latches. A swinging cabinet door will damage the woodwork. You can also tie them shut. A padded stick run thru drawer pulls helps as well.
Table attachments can be broken if force is used. Do not put heavy weight on the table, it may collapse. One sided weight can damage the table leg. Do not sit on the table. Some tables are used as dinette bed supports. If that is the case, cover the table top with a fender protector or pad before dropping the seats.
Add ons should not be attached to the exterior trailer body.
HITCHES and JACKS:
Towing: Vintage trailer couplers come in two sizes, either 1 7/8” or 2”, be sure you have the proper size ball. The vehicle ball mount should be the proper height to level the trailer. A good height to start would be 19" at the top of the ball. It will drop approximately 2 to 3 inches as the trailer is lowered. Inspect coupler and place a clip or bolt to lock onto the ball. There are many different latches; know what type you have and secure the coupler. Be sure the jack is all the way up before towing.
Unhooking: The coupler on the trailer rests on the tow ball of your vehicle. It has a latch to secure it to the ball. Be sure the latch is “open” before winding the jack to disconnect the trailer. If the jack catches or seems very difficult to wind, STOP. The coupler may be closed on the trailer ball. If the jack is at it’s limit, continuing to wind it will cause damage. Drop the jack back down, double check the coupler and try to lift the trailer again. Sometimes, you can put your weight on the vehicle ball mount. This will help loosen the ball and coupler.
Lift steps into tow position and stow stack jacks before travel. Be sure wheel lug nuts are tight and tires are the proper PSI. Note: it is best not to use mounted steps as they put strain on the trailer attachments. Use a sturdy stool instead.
LOCKS AND KEYS:
Use a coupler lock if the trailer will be unhitched from the vehicle. Thievery of vintage trailers is common… Also, lock your safety chain thru the propane tank(s) and possibly add one around the battery case. Taking a wheel off the trailer is a great theft deterrent.
Always have two sets of keys for the trailer. A good place to hide the 2nd set is inside a cargo compartment. Stow a spare cargo key in a magnetic container on the trailer frame. You will never be locked out!
Do not force your keys. They can break inside the lock making for expensive repairs.
MAINTENANCE: Once a year:
The roof and vent should be inspected. Check around the vent flange and insure that the edge trim is tight to the body with no gaps. Tiny gaps grow during a freeze/thaw cycle. OSI gutter sealant will seal small flaws very well.
Inspect the body for damage. Again, OSI gutter seal is ideal for small dings and holes.
Use a lubricant on locks, hinges, at the coupler and other metal to metal moving parts.
Inspect the trailer undercarriage and belly. Air the tires. Touch up the belly coating.
Vintage trailers are easy to take care of. The systems are simple and it takes little effort to have a happy camping experience.
Take care of your trailer!