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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2016 15:15:54 GMT -8
Unfortunately, it seems as though you will be in for a literal down to the metal frame restore, if you are trying to do it safely and correctly. There was a guy on here not too long ago whobhad a Compact like ours and actually did just that. I should try to find it for you. Maybe you have seen it. He took a ton of pics that I bet would really help.
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shea2288
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Post by shea2288 on Jul 2, 2016 15:29:57 GMT -8
Unfortunately, it seems as though you will be in for a literal down to the metal frame restore, if you are trying to do it safely and correctly. There was a guy on here not too long ago whobhad a Compact like ours and actually did just that. I should try to find it for you. Maybe you have seen it. He took a ton of pics that I bet would really help. Thanks rich. I'll look around. Let me know if you find it please.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2016 15:32:34 GMT -8
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 2, 2016 16:25:28 GMT -8
This is from the rear wheel back on the side or are we looking at the rear bumper? If the floor isn't rotted aside from a couple of outer edges I would approach it in a surgical way. Carefully cut out the rotted 2x4 with a sawsall and replace it then replace a section of the plywood (if rotted) then new carriage bolts through the new 2x4 and plywood, then new skirt board that the wall sits on. Make sense? Before you do that, poke the 2x4 framing underneath with an ice pick of screw driver. Is it overall solid? If it's rotted everywhere then it may need broken down to the frame. A big job. I would do everything possible to avoid it.
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shea2288
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Post by shea2288 on Jul 2, 2016 16:37:14 GMT -8
This is from the rear wheel back on the side or are we looking at the rear bumper? If the floor isn't rotted aside from a couple of outer edges I would approach it in a surgical way. Carefully cut out the rotted 2x4 with a sawsall and replace it then replace a section of the plywood (if rotted) then new carriage bolts through the new 2x4 and plywood, then new skirt board that the wall sits on. Make sense? Before you do that, poke the 2x4 framing underneath with an ice pick of screw driver. Is it overall solid? If it's rotted everywhere then it may need broken down to the frame. A big job. I would do everything possible to avoid it. This is from the street side rear bumper. Should I gut the rear interior before moving on?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2016 16:40:30 GMT -8
Along with what nccamper said, it would be nice to see what the underside of the floor looks like. Do you think its ok? Sure is daunting to have to go down to frame. But also a huge peace of mind afterwards.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2016 16:45:39 GMT -8
I am also not going to ever debate the master Ross on his database, but the marker lights actually do not indicate a 1967, those lights are usually on early 70s models. My 67 still has the teardrop lights on the side skins. But hey, this is small stuff! I bet you are more interested in curing the rot!
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 2, 2016 17:28:28 GMT -8
This is from the street side rear bumper. Should I gut the rear interior before moving on? That rear board is attached to framing front to rear. It gives some support to plywood that isn't walked on and offers a place to attach the birch and framing at the bottom. It's not nearly as important as the framing front to rear. What condition is the framing (wood and metal) front to rear? When you say "gut the rear interior" what do you mean? Show us a photo. As a rule, only take out what is in the way of the repair you're doing. Did you watch the cannedhamtrailers.com video on framing? It offers a photographic explanation which is clearer than words.
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shea2288
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Post by shea2288 on Jul 2, 2016 18:04:37 GMT -8
This is from the street side rear bumper. Should I gut the rear interior before moving on? That rear board is attached to framing front to rear. It gives some support to plywood that isn't walked on and offers a place to attach the birch and framing at the bottom. It's not nearly as important as the framing front to rear. What condition is the framing (wood and metal) front to rear? When you say "gut the rear interior" what do you mean? Show us a photo. As a rule, only take out what is in the way of the repair you're doing. Did you watch the cannedhamtrailers.com video on framing? It offers a photographic explanation which is clearer than words. Yeah I watched the videos. I found the one where he used two layers of 3/8" plywood for curbing. That video really made something click and gave me a good understanding of the overall construction. The front actually looks pretty good but I haven't looked inside the skin yet up there. Everything looks decent except the back. Whichever owner installed the AC unit in the back window area did not do a decent job at all. Who knows how long it has sat and soaked in rain.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 2, 2016 20:26:43 GMT -8
As vikx said, repair the front and rear after the sides and bottom skirt boards. Shasta did each model a little differently. As you take it apart you will see how each piece is connected or layered on the next. This is the back corner of a 64 Shasta. As you can see I opened up the back for clear access. Some people do, some don't. Here is the rear of a Mobiltec mid 50s Shasta. Slightly different than your Toaster shape but you can get a sense of how most of us approach repairs one piece at a time rather than dismantling the entire camper. Notice in the top photo I loosened the side skin at the bottom, propped it up... Repaired the rotten skirt board that runs along the bottom... Then...the front and rear are repaired. My guess is that your rotted wood at the bottom rear is sandwiched between the skirt board at the bottom of the sides. Right? Once the sides are finished I think you can drop the new rear bottom piece in place. Here is another example of side skirt board (and wheel well) fixed before repairing the bottom rear. I hope this makes sense.
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bev
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Post by bev on Jul 3, 2016 5:14:03 GMT -8
Just a couple quick comments: Get a larger tarp. if it rains it will roll under your tarp and still get everything wet. your tarp should extend past the front of your camper. Also, consider that not only are you repairing your camper, but you are learning new skills. This will require time learning about your tools and techniques for the repair. Be patient with yourself and confident that with research and help from the kind folks here, you will do a terrific job.
I'm about to start working on my first vintage camper. I've worked in numerous areas of construction as an owner and "hands on" and still need to heavily research camper restoration and ask for advice. Good luck!
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shea2288
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Post by shea2288 on Jul 3, 2016 9:17:04 GMT -8
Just a couple quick comments: Get a larger tarp. if it rains it will roll under your tarp and still get everything wet. your tarp should extend past the front of your camper. Also, consider that not only are you repairing your camper, but you are learning new skills. This will require time learning about your tools and techniques for the repair. Be patient with yourself and confident that with research and help from the kind folks here, you will do a terrific job. I'm about to start working on my first vintage camper. I've worked in numerous areas of construction as an owner and "hands on" and still need to heavily research camper restoration and ask for advice. Good luck! We just had record rainfall yesterday and a larger tarp would be nice. I'll make sure I get one once I start exposing more of the guts. As far as tools go, I need to do some shopping. I'll need a staple/nail gun. So far my favorite tool I've used is my mini pry bar and my phone for pictures (plans) lol.
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bev
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Post by bev on Jul 3, 2016 9:36:11 GMT -8
If u have a little more money to spend on your nail gun and compressor you can't go wrong with senco. It will be useful down the road for many applications. If you are on a shoe string budget, harbor freight tools will get the job done. HF products often fail sooner than expected. Tip: for Harbor Freight do a general google search for Harbor Freight 20% off coupon and give them that number at the register for a discount.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jul 3, 2016 11:57:38 GMT -8
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shea2288
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Post by shea2288 on Jul 3, 2016 14:25:36 GMT -8
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