mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 8, 2016 20:53:21 GMT -8
.32 is the best for accomplishing a fold over on the edges. Are you going to do that and use j rail or go with butted corners and cap rail? What do you recommend? I'm still in information absorbing phase. I'll post more photos of it soon. I am cool with buying new trim, I don't know how salvageable it all is, so I'm open to recommendations. -Tom The trailers I've done that had cap rail I replaced with the fold over method and J rail. Way better seal. It's not era correct maybe but I only want to do it once to each trailer. LOL..
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Apr 9, 2016 4:50:35 GMT -8
What do you recommend? I'm still in information absorbing phase. I'll post more photos of it soon. I am cool with buying new trim, I don't know how salvageable it all is, so I'm open to recommendations. -Tom The trailers I've done that had cap rail I replaced with the fold over method and J rail. Way better seal. It's not era correct maybe but I only want to do it once to each trailer. LOL.. Sounds good - I think that's what I'll do if I am able to source new aluminum for the top. I'm going to try and call around today and see what I can find. How do I "connect" the inevitable seams in the sheets on the roof/front/back? Is there somewhere to learn about this? I assume I"ll have to have one seam near the front window, and one in the back somewhere...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 9, 2016 6:53:49 GMT -8
The trailers I've done that had cap rail I replaced with the fold over method and J rail. Way better seal. It's not era correct maybe but I only want to do it once to each trailer. LOL.. Sounds good - I think that's what I'll do if I am able to source new aluminum for the top. I'm going to try and call around today and see what I can find. How do I "connect" the inevitable seams in the sheets on the roof/front/back? Is there somewhere to learn about this? I assume I"ll have to have one seam near the front window, and one in the back somewhere... I have lots of videos on the subject of metal skin on my website. The roof pieces all along the top are permanently seamed together and do not come apart. You get the roof all rolled up and then install it. The old roof comes off the same way. The front and rear pieces are put together with S locks and that keeps the rain out. You can see how it all goes together on this link. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/57westerner.htm
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Apr 9, 2016 18:44:03 GMT -8
Sounds good - I think that's what I'll do if I am able to source new aluminum for the top. I'm going to try and call around today and see what I can find. How do I "connect" the inevitable seams in the sheets on the roof/front/back? Is there somewhere to learn about this? I assume I"ll have to have one seam near the front window, and one in the back somewhere... I have lots of videos on the subject of metal skin on my website. The roof pieces all along the top are permanently seamed together and do not come apart. You get the roof all rolled up and then install it. The old roof comes off the same way. The front and rear pieces are put together with S locks and that keeps the rain out. You can see how it all goes together on this link. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/57westerner.htmThank you - where can I source a roof thats already together like this?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 9, 2016 19:50:37 GMT -8
Hemet Valley RV makes them... And they ship. It comes all rolled up. You put it up on the trailer and unroll it. Steve is very good about communicating to you about how to measure for your new roof. He spends hours on the phone with customers. All my roofs come from him. www.hemetvalleyrv.net
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 10, 2016 3:15:51 GMT -8
mobiltec, Larry, do they also have an option for a one-piece sheet for the roof, rather than the seamed 4-pc? Or do you know of another source that might provide that as an option?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 10, 2016 5:36:19 GMT -8
mobiltec , Larry, do they also have an option for a one-piece sheet for the roof, rather than the seamed 4-pc? Or do you know of another source that might provide that as an option? No. You have to go to the trucking industry roof metal for that. The stock for trailers is only 4 feet wide and that is the main reason for the seams. If you watch the Metal Videos that I made at Steve's shop you can see that it comes off of a giant roll that is only 4 feet wide. Nothing wrong with seams though as long as you don't damage them. The seams are pressed with a huge hydraulic machine so it is very unlikely that the seams will fail. You would have to damage them pretty good. The trucking industry uses solid metal but now you are stuck with having to cut it down to fit your roof. I believe their roof material is thicker and heavier also so good luck with that.
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Apr 13, 2016 18:12:27 GMT -8
mobiltec Thanks for the recommendation, I believe I'm going to order a roof from Steve, I spoke to him yesterday and he was very helpful. The roof/front/back will be about $1000 shipped (including J-rails), which is more than I'd like to spend, but I think it's the only way to do it right, so I'm going to bite the bullet. It didn't help that I'm on the opposite side of the country too... In terms of "order of fixing things", would you recommend I pull the sides off and fix the side framing before I pull the roof off and fix the roof framing and add the new skin? -Tom
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Lola53
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Post by Lola53 on Apr 13, 2016 18:25:09 GMT -8
... In terms of "order of fixing things", would you recommend I pull the sides off and fix the side framing before I pull the roof off and fix the roof framing and add the new skin? -Tom The front/roof/back paneling overlaps the side wall framing for structural strength. Framing and Kerbing then go on top of paneling and also attach to side wall framing. It makes sense to fix the side framing first. Mark
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 13, 2016 19:59:23 GMT -8
Yep. Take care of all the side framing and then take the top skin off. Then I usually remove the rear. You need to do that in order to complete the corner framing. Then button up the rear and begin the roof. I finish the front last usually. But it can be done the other way around too. When either end is opened up you can take all the cabinets out except the floor to ceiling one. That makes the floor much easier to work on. Then after the new floor is in you can replace the cabinets and button up the end that is open.
I work on one section at a time so the trailer stays mostly together at all times of the project. The other method is to take it all the way down to the chassis.
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Lola53
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Post by Lola53 on Apr 13, 2016 20:51:28 GMT -8
Yep. Take care of all the side framing and then take the top skin off. Then I usually remove the rear. You need to do that in order to complete the corner framing. Then button up the rear and begin the roof. I finish the front last usually. But it can be done the other way around too. When either end is opened up you can take all the cabinets out except the floor to ceiling one. That makes the floor much easier to work on. Then after the new floor is in you can replace the cabinets and button up the end that is open. I work on one section at a time so the trailer stays mostly together at all times of the project. The other method is to take it all the way down to the chassis. I'm following Mobiltec's advice and doing my Westerner in this order. One section at a time. Mark
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Lola53
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Post by Lola53 on Apr 13, 2016 20:55:31 GMT -8
mobiltec Thanks for the recommendation, I believe I'm going to order a roof from Steve, I spoke to him yesterday and he was very helpful. The roof/front/back will be about $1000 shipped (including J-rails), which is more than I'd like to spend, but I think it's the only way to do it right, so I'm going to bite the bullet. It didn't help that I'm on the opposite side of the country too... -Tom Thanks for posting this. I'm planning on ordering all the skins for Lola next month. Hemet Valley RV is highly recommended on this site and I'm planning on using them. Good luck with the replacement. Keep us informed. Mark
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 14, 2016 8:26:02 GMT -8
mobiltec Thanks for the recommendation, I believe I'm going to order a roof from Steve, I spoke to him yesterday and he was very helpful. The roof/front/back will be about $1000 shipped (including J-rails), which is more than I'd like to spend, but I think it's the only way to do it right, so I'm going to bite the bullet. It didn't help that I'm on the opposite side of the country too... -Tom Thanks for posting this. I'm planning on ordering all the skins for Lola next month. Hemet Valley RV is highly recommended on this site and I'm planning on using them. Good luck with the replacement. Keep us informed. Mark I will be showing a very important trick to use because of the metal being so thin these days... Keep an eye out for that trick. It will be on video on my website as soon as I frame up the back of the Super Shasta. But I also made a post about it this morning so look for it in Exterior Repair.... It's up now.
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Apr 24, 2016 16:52:03 GMT -8
Awesome - Thank you mobiltecI started pulling the skin off of the side today, definitely realizing I have a lot more video watching to do... Updated photo gallery: www.flickr.com/photos/thomasmarks/albums/72157666808347995Things I found: -Front and rear corners completely rotted out -Trailer frame cross braces are bent and cracked (I will install and weld in new steel) Questions I have (that will likely be answered as I do more research): -How to replace flooring when it seems like the entire frame sits on the existing ply? -When I install new steel cross braces, will I need to jack up each side of the trailer to correct the height? - -Should I go ahead and order new aluminum for the sides from Steve along with the roof? (They have a lot of holes that I could eliminate, and some damage). -should I beef up the existing structure? Seems very light/weak. -Aluminum wheel wells, any available new replacements? -What kind of wood to use for lower main supports that hold the whole thing up?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 24, 2016 17:53:05 GMT -8
Time to watch a lot more videos and read Vikx' book. I wouldn't order any metal until you have that trailer completely re-framed. and you are ready to install said metal.
Your trailer is one of the few that was built with the walls sitting on the flooring material. Oasis did that too. At least it looks that way in the photos. That makes replacing the floor impossible without doing a frame up rebuild which is what it looks like is needed here anyhow. I have no videos on that subject but will be doing my final full restoral series with a frame up total rebuild of the 54 Lakewood. That won't start for at least 5 months so don't look for it anytime soon. It may not start for a year.
You need to remove all the metal. Take both walls off the trailer keeping them as intact as you can for a template or model. Build new walls, stand them up and connect them with the front, rear and ceiling framing and paneling. The front rear and ceiling paneling span both walls from front to rear and then the framing goes on over that. Ect... ect.... ect.... so on and so forth.
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