mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Feb 22, 2016 11:43:17 GMT -8
So I started trying to remove the table edging on my shasta today, and I got my edge of my mini crow bar under the first nail and then everything went down hill from there, the head of the nail just bent, so then I thought well its bent i can probably grab it with the pliers, then I proceed to just pull the head off the nail, so then I could at least get the edge started, but the next nail will not budge either and it started bending the table edging. So I thought I would take a brake and ask for advice. Has anyone successfully removed the table edging with out damaging it? I would like to reuse it. Nail that I pulled the head off  wonder if they are twisty nails?  |
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 22, 2016 13:53:26 GMT -8
They are twist nails in mine and looked just like that with large heads. I was able to pry the trim enough to raise the nail, then i used a tiny screwdriver to work it up where I could get with a cats paw.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 22, 2016 13:55:46 GMT -8
Sometimes tapping the nail in, just a bit, will break loose the 55year bond it has with the plywood table. You can bend the resulting deepening of the dent on the edging by tapping on it with a ball peen hammer on the inside, with a block of 2X4 on the show face. Use a countersink punch to do the initial tapping.
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 22, 2016 16:03:15 GMT -8
Well it happened, but the aftermath is not pretty. I think I kept the rail decent enough to reuse with a little bit of hammering.  And I still have a bunch stuck in the wood  |
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 22, 2016 17:48:15 GMT -8
I use channel locks to pull them out with. The tongue and groove in the pliers will usually catch it if there's enough to get a bite on. If that doesn't work, cut them flush with a Dremel and cutting wheel. You may need to sand it down even before you try to put your trim back on.
But now I'm pretty sure my sure short table is original It has twisty nails and doesn't look like it's ever been disturbed.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Feb 22, 2016 18:30:46 GMT -8
If you aren't concerned with being 100% original, you can use small stainless round or ovalhead screws when you put it back. Easier to remove if you had to do so in the future. I spent a crazy amount of time removing the original nails.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 22, 2016 20:36:59 GMT -8
Wow, I'm pretty amazed that your table is , or appears to be made of solid wood. It also looks like the lip where the nails were attached has grain going in a different direction than the main body of the table. Is that lip, or edge replaceable, so that you won't have broken nail stubs in the way of using the original holes in your aluminum edging when you go to reinstall it? How about a larger view of the table top so we can see? I wonder if the table was maybe not original, but then again, original builders sure loved using twisty nails, even where they were not necessarily appropriate. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 22, 2016 20:48:01 GMT -8
I use screws as well.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2016 21:29:02 GMT -8
Metal trim is what twisty nails were invented for. They didn't want that stuff coming out. It was meant to be a permanent attachment and it works very well LOL...
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 23, 2016 5:19:21 GMT -8
kirkadie the table is definitely original, not solid. 
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 23, 2016 5:23:08 GMT -8
I was planning on reusing the frame, but with those nails still stuck in the wood(some of them broke off inside with nothing sticking out) They are going to be in the way of the new screws. Anyone have any ideas?? I would prefer not to rebuild it since the wood is still good.
Thank god the counter has screws instead of twisty nails
And Im still working on getting the sliders out from under the benches
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 23, 2016 5:58:07 GMT -8
Mel, your table is about the easiest thing in the whole trailer to rebuild. but if the laminate top is still in good shape I can understand wanting to save it since finding new could be tough.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 23, 2016 7:02:02 GMT -8
Drill them out and use screws or replace your metal edging. It's not hard to find and not terribly expensive.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 23, 2016 7:06:51 GMT -8
Maybe you aren't aware of a little trick for getting the sliders out. Above each sliding door the put a little 1/8 inch square piece of wood that is almost about as long as the sliding doors. It's slid up in there to keep the sliders from bouncing out. Open a slider and stick an ice pick or something up there and grab ahold of that little stick and pull it out. Then you just lift the slider up and ease the bottom out away and drop down the slider and it comes out. I have a video on this in the Deville series.
Your table is just like the one in my 54 Westerner. Very light which is nice. You could build a new one in an hour or so. I always buy new edging material but the place is not far from me. It's called Nosing.... or Edge Nose Material. You can also buy it from VTS.
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MarthaS
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Post by MarthaS on Feb 23, 2016 7:22:16 GMT -8
I'm curious if most leave the nosing off the edge that butts up to the wall? We got a source from Rin Tin on 12' nosing that isn't insane with shipping because the 8' sections sold by VTS wouldn't go around our whole table. Considering options.
Thoughts?
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