mel
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Post by mel on Feb 19, 2016 5:36:12 GMT -8
When you are prefinishing your birch panels, can you just put the finish on the 4x8 then cut it to shape after? or do you need to have it cut to shape first then shellac?
I would love to get some prefinished before I take the camper apart so that I am ready to go.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 19, 2016 5:56:20 GMT -8
I've done it both ways.
If you don't pre-cut you may scratch the finish running the saw against it. I tried to cut from the back of the panel but then you need to make sure the finished side on the saw horses is cushioned. Any movement can scratch.
I think pre-cut is a safer way to go. As I learned the hard way on one piece, it you are off with your cut you haven't wasted time finishing the panel.
I split the difference on some pieces. I put two coats on, made my cuts, then did the remaining coats.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 19, 2016 10:00:44 GMT -8
Cut first... Always cut from the back side of the paneling. This way you won't splinter the veneer up. When cutting walls at the radius I cut just a hair above where the wall framing will end. In other words a hair larger than needed. Then I fasten the panel to the wall, and then run a belt sander to bring the edges down to the framing which makes for a nice smooth radius. Then you apply the gimp and lay the ceiling panels over that.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 19, 2016 10:45:09 GMT -8
I've used the belt sander myself. A nice idea I picked up on a Mobiltec video. Thanks.
A palm sander takes longer but moving slowly is not a bad thing. It works for me.
I like the French polish system for shellac best, but not over my head. And I used a trim pad with very nice results on large pieces. Very fast. Spraying shellac sounds great but I wonder about overspray going everywhere. Plus I don't like cleaning the spray gun.
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 19, 2016 14:59:02 GMT -8
mobiltec or nccamperWould it make a difference for splintering if I use a jig saw vs a circular saw?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 19, 2016 16:02:28 GMT -8
I like a circular saw with a fine tooth blade although I use a jig saw on more radical curves. I think my jig saw cuts are always a little less exact. Cutting the panels a little heavy and adjusting is good advice. If you try cutting from the front it will likely splinter with either saw but especially with the jig saw. At $40+ a panel for domestic birch, I was measuring three times and cutting once.
On the roof I lay the panel in and mark the line. Why? Because on my Shasta campers the walls were a little loopy. You can pull and push the wall a little to meet the panel but I think there are limits.
Mobltec I'm sure will have some excellent suggestions.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 19, 2016 16:31:19 GMT -8
I hardly ever use a jig saw. And especially for paneling. I can't actually think of a time I needed a jig saw on paneling. For round circle cuts 3 inches or smaller I use a hole saw. That's usually for a vent pipe or water inlet or something. In the Deville series I actually go through some mini tutorials on now to use a Skill saw. I even show how to cut a radius with a Skill saw.
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Post by vikx on Feb 19, 2016 21:38:58 GMT -8
I use a jigsaw for funny cuts. The blade is extra sharp and made for fine cuts, very little chattering. That being said, the plywood we can get today often wants to shred/peel or worse. I cut on the top with the jig and on the underside with the skill. The BLADE is most important: new, sharp and made for fine cuts.
Almost forgot, I'm using battery saws for the panels. A little lighter in weight and not so apt to power thru...
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Feb 20, 2016 5:22:55 GMT -8
I cut one of Scotty's side walls with my skill saw, even the curves. Where I missed the template line I cleaned that up with my belt sander. I used that wall as a template, and used a router with a guide bearing to do the other wall. I clamped the curb side and street sides together, inside faces touching when I routed and had no tear out. Remember though, Scotty's walls are just 1/2" plywood.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Feb 25, 2016 15:05:03 GMT -8
Another good way to prevent splintering is to have a 4 x 8 sheet of particle board to cut your birch on. Set the skil saw blade deep enough to cut into (but not through) the particle board, and cut the panels face down.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 25, 2016 18:27:13 GMT -8
Another good way to prevent splintering is to have a 4 x 8 sheet of particle board to cut your birch on. Set the skil saw blade deep enough to cut into (but not through) the particle board, and cut the panels face down. That's very important. Cowcharge is right on the money there.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Feb 28, 2016 4:19:55 GMT -8
I should have added, it in effect makes the birch and particle board one sheet, so there's no edge to chip. You can do it with any wood really, but particle board is so perfectly flat that there's less chance of there being any gaps where the edge could chip. Putting some weight on your birch to keep it flat with the particle board helps.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 28, 2016 7:17:01 GMT -8
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 28, 2016 7:42:05 GMT -8
What glue do you use. In having mixed luck with titebond 3
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 28, 2016 10:03:00 GMT -8
mobiltec, That is cool idea, I might have to try that. I would love to know what kind of glue too.
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