bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 2, 2016 16:54:59 GMT -8
Yeah we definitely want to keep the retro feel and the layout as close to original but unless I can find some very detailed drawings it will never be a real restoration as it was from the factory. I saw a video of the 2015 reissue that has a fold down bunk in the back that I thought we could do something similar in the front. It looks like the original overhead cabinet when folded up. Have thought about adding a bathroom but I don't think it can be done without changing the layout quite a bit. The furnace is still in it. Wondering if I should use it or update it. A/C also is a consideration.
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 3, 2016 7:49:03 GMT -8
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 4, 2016 18:46:12 GMT -8
Does anyone have any comments on this or a recommendation? I read that this is designed for pop-up campers meaning it would be underpowered?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 4, 2016 20:02:29 GMT -8
I only use the 45 amp Intelliverters. They are a converter that put's out DC only. I've never used one of these AC/DC units but have seen them in most of the larger and newer campers.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 4, 2016 20:07:12 GMT -8
33% of buyers gave it a 1 star rating. Apparently a lot of them fail within a few months. Something to consider.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2016 8:27:15 GMT -8
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 5, 2016 9:11:28 GMT -8
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2016 10:07:31 GMT -8
I never really asked myself that question but I will take a stab at it being that I've dealt with electronics my entire life. It may stand for "continuous voltage". But I'm just guessing.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2016 10:16:28 GMT -8
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 5, 2016 11:18:22 GMT -8
Yeah 10 DC circuits does seem like overkill. Good to know about that PD4045. I'll look into it more. Thanks for all of your help mobiltec. So with the one you said you use do you put a small AC panel in to power the unit and for fridge and whatever else that's 120V?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2016 12:53:36 GMT -8
Yeah 10 DC circuits does seem like overkill. Good to know about that PD4045. I'll look into it more. Thanks for all of your help mobiltec. So with the one you said you use do you put a small AC panel in to power the unit and for fridge and whatever else that's 120V? Yes. A two breaker sub panel is all I ever need because I don't work on anything over 18 feet. If you have a 30 amp service it is very important to get a large enough service cable to match. I use the Furion cable and inlet. Expensive but works very well and looks nice also.
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bbiwer
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Post by bbiwer on Jan 5, 2016 13:05:33 GMT -8
Yeah 10 DC circuits does seem like overkill. Good to know about that PD4045. I'll look into it more. Thanks for all of your help mobiltec. So with the one you said you use do you put a small AC panel in to power the unit and for fridge and whatever else that's 120V? Yes. A two breaker sub panel is all I ever need because I don't work on anything over 18 feet. If you have a 30 amp service it is very important to get a large enough service cable to match. I use the Furion cable and inlet. Expensive but works very well and looks nice also. Awesome. Thanks for your help, I'm getting a handle on this.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 5, 2016 20:29:19 GMT -8
I've considered this type of unit but I always wonder if I'll regret not having straight shore power. I wired the latest camper with both AC/DC. You ran a 12 Volt system over romex without any issues by swapping out the receptacles/lights?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 6, 2016 8:06:00 GMT -8
I've considered this type of unit but I always wonder if I'll regret not having straight shore power. I wired the latest camper with both AC/DC. You ran a 12 Volt system over romex without any issues by swapping out the receptacles/lights? Done if on almost every trailer I've worked on and it works great. Just make sure you isolate the wiring from AC. Then I add a couple of AC receptacles with new romex, boxes and outlets. I disable those little two prong AC plugs in the original lamps. In trailers where you have AC receptacles in the walls, I don't do this unless I can get to the boxes which is easy if the skin is being removed.
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Post by vikx on Jan 6, 2016 22:38:31 GMT -8
The PD works great but I don't give up my 110 lighting. The converter is used to maintain the battery (Note: not charge the battery) and also run 12 volt items when on shore power. No reason to include 110 in the mix, just install a good quality breaker box. Makes for easier repairs. When a trailer is running two separate systems, if one fails, the other can still keep you going, depending on access to power.
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