k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 23, 2015 11:04:56 GMT -8
just got this open road for free, I have no idea of year or anything about it because model sticker information is missing. anyone have any idea of a year range on it? I have no idea of anyother site to ask this on. thank you  |
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Post by bigbill on Nov 23, 2015 15:58:56 GMT -8
I don't know but I would guess early to mid 70s.
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poncho62
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99 Springdale 5th Wheel
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Post by poncho62 on Nov 23, 2015 16:53:25 GMT -8
According to NADA, Open Road truck campers were built from 1966-75....suits your truck
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Nov 23, 2015 16:58:57 GMT -8
It does look good on there! It is not often that ya see these around, I don't think many have survived.
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 9:17:33 GMT -8
thanks all, not bad for free. needs a little work   |
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 9:18:24 GMT -8
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 9:24:39 GMT -8
this is the biggest thing i need to figure out. I can't turn on the stove right now because this is causing a propane leak. it's right next to over and under the sink. something small from what the hole looks like. not too sure what it could have been.   |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Nov 24, 2015 10:06:18 GMT -8
That is pretty sharp. I like that setup a lot.
I was envisioning just a cap, but not the full camper. My Dad had a cap that looked like similar finish to that one. It was on his old '64 Ford Pickup. Just the cap seemed like it weighed about 1500 lbs! I am sure it didn't but seemed like it!
Your open gas line probably fed a space heater fitted under the cabinet. Finding one the right size for the opening may be a project, if you are inclined to replace it. They do make flare plugs, which you could screw into that end nut, and seal the line off so that the stove would work, and would not require a lot of rerouting the old lines. Use caution though. The old copper holds up well over time, but I have split those flare nuts when re-tightening them in both my water and propane systems. Be sure to check the whole system for leaks, and do it periodically, not just once.
Most importantly though, GET HELP FROM A PROFESSIONAL IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING WITH PROPANE SYSTEMS! Safety first. Propane is nothing to mess with.
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 11:45:43 GMT -8
thank you very much, just went searching and I couldn't find any vents for propane systems so i was confused That is pretty sharp. I like that setup a lot. I was envisioning just a cap, but not the full camper. My Dad had a cap that looked like similar finish to that one. It was on his old '64 Ford Pickup. Just the cap seemed like it weighed about 1500 lbs! I am sure it didn't but seemed like it! Your open gas line probably fed a space heater fitted under the cabinet. Finding one the right size for the opening may be a project, if you are inclined to replace it. They do make flare plugs, which you could screw into that end nut, and seal the line off so that the stove would work, and would not require a lot of rerouting the old lines. Use caution though. The old copper holds up well over time, but I have split those flare nuts when re-tightening them in both my water and propane systems. Be sure to check the whole system for leaks, and do it periodically, not just once. Most importantly though, GET HELP FROM A PROFESSIONAL IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING WITH PROPANE SYSTEMS! Safety first. Propane is nothing to mess with. |
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Post by vikx on Nov 24, 2015 20:43:24 GMT -8
I'm guessing 66 by the interior... Welcome!
The open line *nut* looks a little funny, are you sure it's not a water line? Some older rigs used copper for both propane and water. The plug will either be 3/8" or 1/2" flare if propane. If it's a water line, 1/2" IP.
Copper water lines in these old campers are usually split and need to be replaced. As Ten said, the propane copper lines are usually fine and certainly tougher than today's tubing.
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 23:49:10 GMT -8
yes propane gas comes out of it, got the stuff today to cap it just have to wait a few days because next few days i will be busy with Wyoming snow I'm guessing 66 by the interior... Welcome! The open line *nut* looks a little funny, are you sure it's not a water line? Some older rigs used copper for both propane and water. The plug will either be 3/8" or 1/2" flare if propane. If it's a water line, 1/2" IP. Copper water lines in these old campers are usually split and need to be replaced. As Ten said, the propane copper lines are usually fine and certainly tougher than today's tubing. |
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Post by vikx on Nov 24, 2015 23:51:00 GMT -8
Good on ya and have a Happy Thanksgiving!
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 24, 2015 23:54:01 GMT -8
you also thank you, hope to have this ready by boating season so I can do overnight camping at same time boating. there isn't much to be done in order to use it even if i need to take a camping stove and a few gallons of water. got tow mirrors ordered and stake pocket hold down system ordered. next on my list is wire up plug on the pig tails that should be in the clearance lights and hope they still work, right now working on getting it street legal then i will work on the inside Good on ya and have a Happy Thanksgiving! |
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lovnvintage
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Post by lovnvintage on Nov 25, 2015 5:31:21 GMT -8
My computer isn't letting me see the picture but I had an old cabover that had a propane light line that ran under the counter. Could that be what it was?
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k7cdl
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Post by k7cdl on Nov 27, 2015 17:50:12 GMT -8
nope this for sure is propane, I was able to cap it but now i'm thinking I'm going to need to run all new lines after finding some bad kinks My computer isn't letting me see the picture but I had an old cabover that had a propane light line that ran under the counter. Could that be what it was? |
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