Post by turbodaddy on Sept 23, 2015 14:30:34 GMT -8
Looking at the wiring diagram from VT Supply, I see that I need to connect between Blue brake wire and positive side of the trailer battery(s). My battery is in the trunk at the rear of the camper. Since the tow vehicle would be disconnected in the event that the break away switch is activated...can I connect the switch to the incoming battery charging (black) wire? Seems to me it all ends up in the right place.
I agree. Any hot source is fine as long as it isn't fused. The principle is to have the brakes engage if the pin is pulled. (as in trailer disconnects from vehicle. So, the battery powers the brakes and slows/stops the trailer.
In this case, you might want to consider spending the extra and using a wholly self-contained unit. They are designed to charge off the vehicle when towing and do not require a lot of wiring.
This is an aside, but can a vintage camper survive coming loose at 55 MPS and the brakes locking up? Or even 20 MPH? I wonder if the hitch would dig into the road, brakes would lock and the box of the camper would sheer clear off even with the chains holding.
Last Edit: Sept 24, 2015 5:23:53 GMT -8 by nccamper
Post by turbodaddy on Sept 24, 2015 5:34:36 GMT -8
Yeah NC, I posted a similar thread a while ago asking anyone who's seen or experienced it to describe what happened. Didn't get the replies I was hoping for. Do they spin around in circles or go somewhat straight? How far do they go before they stop? Hard to imagine both the ball and the chains completely failing, hope I never experience it to find out! ( or anyone else for that matter)
Gentlemen If you have proper safety chains hooked up as the should be the trailer will stay fairly straight behind your vehicle. I had a trailer ball shear off years ago while pulling a trailer loaded with hardwood flooring, I had strong chains crossed under the tongue the trailer raised up came back down I hit my brakes the trailer came against the back of the truck and I got it off to the side safely. Then had my massive coronary, changed my pants, put on a new ball and went on down the road.
Gentlemen If you have proper safety chains hooked up as the should be the trailer will stay fairly straight behind your vehicle. I had a trailer ball shear off years ago while pulling a trailer loaded with hardwood flooring, I had strong chains crossed under the tongue the trailer raised up came back down I hit my brakes the trailer came against the back of the truck and I got it off to the side safely. Then had my massive coronary, changed my pants, put on a new ball and went on down the road.
So the hitch post didn't reach the ground?
Lucky man!
I always wonder if the chains will hold the camper up high enough to avoid post-dig-in. I guess if the chains hold, the hitch post will sheer off and it will leave the camper cradled from that point on?
I also wonder if the structure of a vintage camper can withstand the added jolt of the wheels locking up with a breakaway system?
Here is just my personal opinion and a little reality check for all the items mentioned.
First, the jack posts are hollow pipe and if they contact the ground at highway speed should rip loose from their mounts in the coupler or bend under completely, or most likely, both. If the chains are well thought out, they should cradle the hitch before the time that the post would contact the ground. The chains should be able to "catch" the hitch before it drops more than a few inches lower than the top level of the ball. Also, be sure to fully raise the jack when preparing to trailer off into the sunset. Next, the idea that the brakes may "lock" may be a stretch too. I have new brakes on the trailer and a new controller, and in the hardest applied braking I cannot skid a tire. This may be by design and may not, but it is a good thing, because locking would also cause a much greater loss of control. There is a jolt from hard braking. If you have replaced the framing to a solid point, then I do not believe even sudden hard braking should shear the body bolts loose. It certainly may be a possibility in some of the old unrestored rattle traps we have all seen. Bigbill raises a great point about being prepared. Your tool box should always include an aspirin to chew up immediately after such a breakaway incident, as well as at least one change of undies.
In today's world with the quality of hitches and accessories available if you make certain you have done everything right there is very little chance of a trailer coming loose. Most problems are caused by operator error. Things such as not latching the coupler or leaving one of the locking pins off or latching the coupler without having the ball seated properly. All of these are things caused by not having a check list and using it every time you hitch up. I personally hitch my rig then before I pull out I do a complete walk around looking for anything that I forgot or failed to do properly. I also repeat the process every time I get out of the vehicle such as at gas stations, rest areas, restaurants, and so on. Always do a walk around last thing before pulling out then take time to see what is behind, beside or in front of your rig before getting in. You should include a close look at your tires checking for tread separations, bulges or low inflation. All of this can help prevent problems along the highway.
