RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 21, 2015 6:31:27 GMT -8
I am currently sorting out the propane lines on my 65 Aloha. I have decided to omit the gas lamp, but will be running the range and a catalytic heater. I also plan to re-use the old copper lines as they did not leak before removal and, upon inspection, appear to still be in serviceable condition.
When the lines were removed, where they pass through the floor, from the interior I cut them just below the flare fittings as the hole through the floor was too small for the fittings to fit through. So I will need to re-flare the ends, no big deal. I have one of those simple, anvil type double flaring tools and plan to use it for this job.
The way I see it, I have two, possibly three options to re-run the lines through the floor.
1: Copy what was done originally. This will require that I re-flare the end after passing the line through the floor which can be a PIA as it will be more difficult to use my flaring tool in this position and get a good flare.
2: Drill a hole through the floor large enough for the flare fitting to fit through. This way I can flare the end on the bench, assuring a good flare, but this will leave a larger hole that will have to be filled in around the line.
3: Use a floor flange with appropriate NPT to flare fittings. I like the idea of having a solid base to secure my lines, but this will require more connections which means more places for leaks to occur.
Yes, I plan to re-run the original copper lines under the body. I know that black pipe is preferred by many, and for good reason, but for now I want to run with what I have that has worked for 50 years. I will be slipping rubber hose over the exposed lines for rub and rock protection.
Any thoughts, ideas?
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 21, 2015 7:36:29 GMT -8
If you re-flare on the bench you will get a much cleaner fit than trying to force the tool on an off angle into a tight space. I would enlarge the hole and hope the rubber tube takes up the bulk of the space. Then silicone.
That's my vote.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 21, 2015 10:58:15 GMT -8
Just finished the first one. Figured I'd try it drilling the smallest small hole through the floor, I could always enlarge it. Tried option 1, but in order to fit the line through the floor, it had to be cut about 3-1/2" past the bend. This didn't leave enough tubing projecting up from the floor for my flaring tool to fit correctly after the fitting was slipped over the end. Ended up using option 2 for this one. You are right nccamper, with my tool, getting a good flare would have been very difficult with the tubing hanging loose. Even using the bench vise I ended up having to cut off the first flare as it didn't turn out well. I think I'll pack some caulking backer rod around it, seal the underside with roofing mastic and seal the top side with caulk. This one is for the range. I used a capped T fitting in case I change my mind about the lamp. Still have to do the line for the heater. There are a few other considerations to take into account for it, so I have yet to determine how that one will be done.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 21, 2015 18:52:40 GMT -8
I described this elsewhere in a similar post. Drill your hole as large as you need to get the lines through then take a block of wood and drill a hole the size of the line all the way through it, next cut the block in half right through the hole next place both pieces around the tube below the floor and screw them to the floor. usually a 3/4" block about 3 or 4 inches square is fine. This will give you a very secure entry, then I go inside and fill with silicone caulk. This stops rodents, ants, spiders, and such from entering. Cheap, easy, and effective.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 23, 2015 7:23:21 GMT -8
I described this elsewhere in a similar post. Drill your hole as large as you need to get the lines through then take a block of wood and drill a hole the size of the line all the way through it, next cut the block in half right through the hole next place both pieces around the tube below the floor and screw them to the floor. usually a 3/4" block about 3 or 4 inches square is fine. This will give you a very secure entry, then I go inside and fill with silicone caulk. This stops rodents, ants, spiders, and such from entering. Cheap, easy, and effective. That's a great technique bigbill, I have used it many times around the house for plumbing stub-outs. I wanted the underside lines high and tight, so I tried to get fancy with my tubing bender, the results being so-so. The tight bends didn't leave room for the blocking, and for appearance, I didn't want to block the lines on the inside. Besides, I wanted the interior fittings right on the floor, which didn't leave room for the blocking. Here are a couple pictures of what I ended up with: The hose is a combination of automotive heater and carburetor hose, stuffed up into the hole, level with the interior vinyl flooring, sealed on the underside with roofing mastic. The fittings were left exposed for ease of access and inspection. Doesn't look pretty but is an improvement over the original work which looked like it was done by a third grader.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 23, 2015 14:42:04 GMT -8
You could of used a plexiglass plate to stay thin.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 23, 2015 15:34:36 GMT -8
You could of used a plexiglass plate to stay thin. Ha, if I was smarter I would have thought of that, could still do it if I wanted to, but I'm satisfied with how it turned out. Maybe next time. Thanks for the input.
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Post by vintagebruce on Jul 28, 2015 4:31:14 GMT -8
I was in Lowes yesterday in the hardware section looking in some of those big horizontal specialty items drawers, and saw some rubber rings that had holes in them that looked to be about the same diameter as propane lines, at least about 25% thicker than the thickness of my flooring in either my Airflyte or Compact. I'm wondering if a person slid the rubber ring over the line before flaring and adding the fitting, I think the ring is larger than the hole you would need to have to get the fitting through it and then the rubber piece can be slid up and worked into the hole. Would still suggest the line support underneath, but the right size should make a neat, non goopy looking weatherproof hole "plug" that would cushion the line at the pass through point. Just a thought since I have never tried doing something like that.
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Post by danrhodes on Jul 28, 2015 8:37:30 GMT -8
Is there a reason not to use rubber hose and regulator like that from a bbq grill? Seems it would be easier to route and perhaps more durable on the road.
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Post by vikx on Jul 28, 2015 21:47:11 GMT -8
I don't believe rubber hoses are legal under the trailer for propane and I know they aren't inside the cabin. Modern RVs are required to use black iron under and copper up to the appliance, normally flare fittings. (there may be a new line I heard about a few years ago, but haven't seen them in use yet)
RVs are also required to have a two stage regulator with a vent, so BBQ regulators are not legal. For our older trailers, the original regulator was single stage/w/vent and that is still allowed today.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 29, 2015 6:21:12 GMT -8
I don't believe rubber hoses are legal under the trailer for propane and I know they aren't inside the cabin. Modern RVs are required to use black iron under and copper up to the appliance, normally flare fittings. (there may be a new line I heard about a few years ago, but haven't seen them in use yet) RVs are also required to have a two stage regulator with a vent, so BBQ regulators are not legal. For our older trailers, the original regulator was single stage/w/vent and that is still allowed today. Thanks for clarifying. I wasn't sure and was hoping you'd chime in. I had a tent trailer, manufactured in 2006 if I recall, with a portable gas cook top you could hang off the side of the trailer and use outdoors. It had rubber hoses with quick connects on the ends, one inside and one you could pull out a cargo door for outdoor use. I suppose the regulations for tent trailers are different than for hard sided trailers.
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Post by vikx on Jul 29, 2015 11:48:38 GMT -8
Greg,
"RVQ" BBQs were recalled. They ran off "regulated" low pressure gas. Most BBQs run off high pressure gas, so are not compatible when connected to the RV system. Have seen an RVQ II that might be available, not sure.
As far as the hoses, I believe they are legal when connected to a quick connect and the appliance is outside. There is a bit of a grey area about that. The manufacturers must comply with rules for gas when building the trailer; no hoses except from gas pipe to regulator and regulator to tanks.
I'm very curious about the *new* flexible lines that are/were supposedly legal under the trailer. Techs said they were yellow and plastic. Can't imagine them being tough....
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 29, 2015 12:13:01 GMT -8
My tent trailer had a main hard line underneath with trunk lines up through the floor, then rubber to the stove and cargo door. It wasn't a RVQ grill, just a typical gas burner cooktop that was portable. What about flexible hard lines inside? I cleaned up the original copper flex line on the 65 Aloha that went from the regulator to the main gas line and made into a service loop to feed my heater. That should be OK don't you think, as long as it doesn't leak.
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Post by vikx on Jul 29, 2015 22:01:11 GMT -8
I have not seen flex lines used in a trailer or RV. I would check with an RV shop to see exactly what is required and if it is now legal. Sometimes, it's a coating that is required, which might be easy for a person to do...
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Post by bigbill on Feb 12, 2017 10:50:18 GMT -8
I would NEVER use a copper flexible line on any gas line. I have witnessed two of these break in my life and both produced a blow torch of flames beyond description flames shooting about six to eight feet. Think what that would do in your trailer. That is why they are illegal in many areas.
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