mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 25, 2015 10:47:44 GMT -8
So I have been trying to get my coupler unrusted for way too long, I give up. So were just going to put a new one on. My friends dad has the equipment and will help us do it. I just want to make sure it's done right. Does anyone know how we go about getting the old one off? Do we cut it off? if so where at? Also the old crank jack seems to work fine, so should I keep that? or do you guys suggest getting a new one because its so old? For some reason photo bucket won't work right now, so i will try to get some photos of it up when Its working. This is the the coupler I am thinking about buying www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Pro-Series/PSE338050303.htmlMy coupler looks exactly like the one is the photo on this thread, for reference. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/4540/new-coupler-choices?page=1&scrollTo=43340 |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 29, 2015 7:19:28 GMT -8
So mel, did you get your questions answered?
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mel
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Post by mel on Jun 29, 2015 8:28:40 GMT -8
So mel, did you get your questions answered? No, not really, someone my husband works with said to use a angle grinder on the welds, then re-weld the new one is the same spot. But that is the only advise we have gotten so far. |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 29, 2015 8:56:07 GMT -8
I am not a welder, so I cannot comment on how to best go about the removal and replacing of your coupler.
What I can say is that unless you or whomever is helping you has the knowledge and experience to undertake this project with the utmost confidence, it may be best to hire it out. Your coupler is probably the most critical towing component and is the last place you want to have a problem "down the road". If you end up hiring it out, the shop may be reluctant to use a coupler they did not provide.
As for your choice of coupler, the one you chose will work fine, just be careful not to back into the hoop that slides over the front as that can bend it and cause it to bind up and become difficult to operate.
You should be able to re-use your old tongue jack if the mounting hole pattern on the new coupler matches it. If not, you can drill new holes through the top of the new coupler, but jacks are so cheap you may want to just buy a new one at this point.
Also, there should be a reinforcing plate welded to the bottom of the frame with a hole that your jack fits through. Chances are this plate will not align with the jack location of your new coupler and it too will likely need to be moved or replaced.
Hope this helps.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 29, 2015 9:56:11 GMT -8
Thanks for your advise RinTin. I believe our friends dad does know what he is doing. I just haven't had a change to talk to him personally yet. But we also might just hire it out, as there is a trailer repair shop a half mile away from my house, and it is family owned and operated and they are super nice and would I love to give them my business when needed  |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 29, 2015 10:12:40 GMT -8
Welding is not rocket science but it is a skill. When I needed welding done on a vintage camper I found a place that welds suspensions on large tricks and trailers handling heavy loads. They weld all day long and knew exactly what needed done. The old guy running the place had seen it all. He charged around $200 for labor.
It might be something better paid for, if you can find an old-timer with a lifetime of experience.
One last thing...their work looks like it came from the factory. Very clean. That will matter when it's time to sell.
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Post by bigbill on Jun 29, 2015 15:10:10 GMT -8
I cut them off with a torch but I have lots of experience doing that type of thing. done properly the coupler can be shaved off of the frame rails with no damage to the rails at all. Then you clean up the frame rails making sure all paint in weld areas is removed. Once you have a clean smooth surface you clamp the new coupler in place and weld it back on using the proper welding equipment and materials to do the job properly. My only caution is make sure your welder has experience and knows what he is doing. A lot of people can lay down a beautiful weld with A mig welder that looks beautiful but has no penetration into both pieces of steel causing a joint failure down the road. My dad bought a new boat and trailer several years ago and the trailer looked beautiful with some of the best looking welds you have ever seen. we took it to the lake fishing and when we went to winch the boat back on the trailer the welds on the winch stand failed causing a quick weight shift and we watched the trailer frame welds start breaking all over, it was unbelievable. we had to load the trailer in my truck and take it to a local garage that knew me and let me use there equipment to straighten everything and weld it back together. About four hours later we had a good strong trailer that he used for the next ten or twelve years. Had the failure happen on the highway at speed it could have been fatal and it would have definitely been serious.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 4, 2015 9:26:31 GMT -8
Sorry I have asked so many questions about my coupler, I am finally getting a new one welded on next week! yay! I am debating between these two couplers, does anyone have any experience with these two types of latches? which one is preferred? They both get good reviews so I'm sure either will work fine, just wanted to get opinions about the latch styles www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Atwood/AT80072.htmlwww.etrailer.com/p-CA5100B.html |
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Post by bigbill on Aug 4, 2015 9:48:10 GMT -8
The Atwood appears to be a much better built hitch built out of stronger materials. I have always had good results with Atwood products. I know nothing about the other brand but it looks lighter built and lower quality, looking at the hardware. I would spend the extra ten dollars.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Aug 4, 2015 9:49:58 GMT -8
If your jack works, keep until it doesn't. Then they are easy to replace.
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