bimmrr
Junior Member
Proud owner of a yellow and white 62 Shasta Compact
Posts: 83
Likes: 17
Currently Offline
|
Post by bimmrr on May 28, 2015 6:58:21 GMT -8
Hey all, Live in coastal South Carolina so it gets hot and humid plus add salt in the air and anything metal is at the mercy of the environment. But, what I was wondering is best way to keep your interior smelling fresh for lack of a better word. My 62 Compact has the original birch and just simply with gets that "old trailer/musty smell" if you close it up. I have it under my house ( we're on piers due to being on the coast) and usually keep the door open with screen door closed and a couple of the windows cranked partially open. But with humidity issue, have to watch or I will get the beginnings of mold on the ceiling. Wipes right off but not a good thing. Was thinking about placing a small fan and just running it all the time to keep the air circulating but thought I would see if anyone has a better idea. BTW, has all new cushions, new floor, and birch is in beautiful original condition but obviously has most of the original limited insulation other than on the back where I reskinned it recently. Thanks Mike
|
|
|
Post by vintagebruce on May 28, 2015 7:32:00 GMT -8
Usually I can go to ehow and come up with the answer to a specific question but not this time. I have done a brief search and come up with different variations on the theme keep the camper ventilated all the way to, change out all the cushions, curtains and don't bring in personal clutter etc. Here is a thread to some common suggestions...of course the suggestion of Kilz 2 on the walls is for glampers, and actually the original Kilz oil based paint is better than Kilz 2 for odors, imho. Odo-ban is somewhat effective but I don't like the smell of that any better than some of what it is trying to eliminate. Chemical supply places do sell a myriad of professional odor killers that actually attack organic odor smells in a number of scents, if the smell is organic based. Here is the thread, with suggestions. Also maybe a small dehumidifier would help in your area if you choose to keep the camper mostly shut up. webspace.webring.com/people/jv/vintage_campers1/smelly_camper.html
|
|
SusieQ
Global Moderator
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 1,197
'62 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by SusieQ on May 28, 2015 7:45:06 GMT -8
There are some closet size dehumidifiers which might be helpful. Do a search and read the reviews. This one does not require power or batteries, you don't have to empty it but you "recharge" it. Some of my tear drop friends use one similar to this when they camp to control condensation. www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANX1PAI?psc=1
|
|
RinTin
Full Member
Posts: 760
Likes: 292
Currently Offline
|
Post by RinTin on May 28, 2015 8:12:13 GMT -8
Leaving the windows and roof vent cracked open 24/7 is a good start. Make sure your screens are in tact as they will collect a lot of the moisture. A small fan to recirculate the air is a good idea as it helps to prevent the moisture from accumulating on surfaces. As VB said, a small dehumidifier would do the same thing as a small fan plus collect the water. Finding one may be another matter. You could also buy a small table lamp with a 40 watt incandescent bulb and leave it on 24/7. Make sure the lamp is in good working order and secured from being accidentally tipped over. A desiccant dehumidifier like Dri-Z-Air: www.drizair.com/ can also help. Boaters have been dealing with this forever. Check out some boater forums and visit your local chandlery to see what they do.
|
|
SusieQ
Global Moderator
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 1,197
'62 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by SusieQ on May 28, 2015 8:58:27 GMT -8
I put a solar vent in my closet. It moves just enough air to keep it circulating. I'm not suggesting this because I can't tell you for sure if it actually will help. Put it's pretty cool
|
|
turbodaddy
1K Member
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 462
17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
Currently Offline
|
Post by turbodaddy on May 28, 2015 15:59:20 GMT -8
As RinTin said, boaters have this issue all the time. Mold is a constant problem, we lived aboard in Southwest Florida. At least a couple of times a year we'd have to wipe down the entire interior of the boat with dilute bleach. The outside was even worse, and most likely was the source of what found its way inside. For boats that were not occupied for long periods of time we used to use a product made by "Damp Rid" that was very effective at killing mold (also doubled as deterrent to thieves, 'cause you couldn't breathe when it was present!) Not the stuff that collects water. It came in little bag-like things that you'd hang inside. We'd set them up while holding our breath and then quickly close everything up. If the owner was coming down we'd take them down and vent the boat for a couple of days before they arrived. I haven't seen this product recently, maybe it was just too toxic and was removed from the market.
Another big problem was what some folks called "palmetto bugs", that are really just cockroaches. Nasty things that can completely infest the inside of a boat.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,748
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on May 28, 2015 19:07:18 GMT -8
The 40 watt lamp is the best idea here so far. A dehumidifier is good in a very humid area but requires constant maintenance and if it over flows you are screwed. One or two of the light bulbs will keep the humidity down. Removing as much of the bedding, curtains and other types of cloth materials that hold smells and moisture helps a lot too. Store all that stuff in plastic bags. The kind you suck the air out of and only bring them out when you plan to use the trailer. It's a pain in the butt of course but well worth the effort. Keeping windows or vents cracked open is a bad idea. Your paneling will act like a sponge and suck the moisture in when it's humid and then when it dries up outside, so will the paneling. All that action going back and forth will eventually de-laminate the paneling. So I would get it dry and then shut everything up, turn on the light bulb and leave it at that till the next time you open it. Open it up on a nice day when it's not too humid and let it breath. Then shut it up at the end of the day and turn the light bulb back on.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on May 28, 2015 19:42:44 GMT -8
Simple. Tell the dog to sleep outside.
|
|
bimmrr
Junior Member
Proud owner of a yellow and white 62 Shasta Compact
Posts: 83
Likes: 17
Currently Offline
|
Post by bimmrr on May 29, 2015 5:15:57 GMT -8
Thanks all for your recommendations. I am already using one of those Damp Rid containers that you fill up with the crystals and that helps quite a bit. Can still get the one that hangs as Turbodaddy mentioned. Sold to be hung in a closet or something like that. You're right , they do smell but must have downgraded them some as not as toxic. Going to do a combo of what everyone suggested and close her up, turn on a lamp with a 40 watt bulb, keep my damp rid bucket filled up and keep an eye out. BTW, Palmetto bugs are the state bird of South Carolina ( just kidding) but big cockroaches with wings are a real treat !!! Thanks again, Mike
|
|
chametzoo
Full Member
Posts: 585
Likes: 128
1960 Mobile Scout
Currently Offline
|
Post by chametzoo on May 29, 2015 7:17:14 GMT -8
Whenever I've seen professional clean up crews in action for interiors, high volumes of moving air seem to be the centerpiece of their clean up agenda. So that's the single most effective THEY do, plus the Damp Rid and heating up the interior when closed up are probably good ideas as well.
I don't know what condition your trailer is in in general, but any mold/bacterial growth inside the wall panels will really bloom and smell in your kind of humid coastal environment; you've got a tough situation there for an old trailer.
|
|
RinTin
Full Member
Posts: 760
Likes: 292
Currently Offline
|
Post by RinTin on May 29, 2015 11:21:21 GMT -8
Relative humidity is the main issue here. Mold and mildew spores are airborne, there is no way to completely avoid them. Bleaches and other surface treatments that kill existing spores will eventually break down and are only a short term solution. The best you can do is to try controlling the environment inside the trailer. Mold and mildew need a consistently wet environment to grow. Ideally, you need a constant 60% or less humidity level to keep water from condensing. Practically, this is impossible to maintain in our old trailers, especially so on the east coast with your 90% plus outdoor humidity levels.
If the humidity level inside the trailer is higher than that of the outside air, water will condensate on surfaces, creating an environment for mold and mildew. Warm air is like a sponge, the warmer the air, the more water it can hold. If the air temperature inside the trailer is warmer than the outside air, it will contain more moisture relative to the outside air, creating a higher humidity level inside the trailer.
Closing up a trailer makes sense in the desert where the dry air is sucking the moisture out of anything it can. However, in your situation, with your high outdoor humidity levels, closing up the trailer will actually make your problem worse as the warmer air inside the trailer will draw moisture from the outside air. With the windows and vents buttoned up, the moist air is trapped inside the trailer and condensates, creating the very environment you want to avoid.
Without a dehumidifier, about the best you can do is try to equalize the inside and outside air temperature and humidity levels, hence cracking open the windows and roof vent. The light bulb does not reduce the humidity in the trailer. Just the opposite. It slightly raises the air temperature inside the trailer so it holds more water before condensing. This is more so at night when it is cooler outside. Warm air also raises, this is convection. An open roof vent allows the warmer, moister air to escape, but only if a lower window is cracked to allow cooler outside air in to replace it. The light bulb does not dry out the air, that's impossible, it only facilitates the air convection and is most effective if placed on the floor.
Moving air is less apt to condensate than stationary air, so a low speed recirculating fan will help. A desiccant is just insurance. Remove your fabrics, cushions, window coverings, etc. Open up all the cabinet doors. All of this will help keep your trailer at a relatively stable moisture level so your wood will not be subjected to the wet dry cycles that cause problems.
Keeping the trailer in the shade, under your house as you do is the best possible place for it as the temperature swings are less. When all is said and done, like chamtzoo said, you are in a tough situation. You will likely always have to do a wipe down from time to time. At least it will be easier with everything removed from the trailer.
|
|
Dave K
Active Member
Posts: 159
Likes: 54
1958 Franklin Travel Trailer
Currently Offline
|
Post by Dave K on Aug 17, 2015 6:47:52 GMT -8
We have removed all the curtains, cushions, old mattress and box spring but we are still getting a faint musty smell. I found this thread and plan on getting a small dehumidifier for the interior and opening all cabinets and the closet door. I'm hoping this helps, we have a trip in two weeks and I want to get rid of the musty smell before we put in the brand new mattress and curtains, etc.
|
|
RinTin
Full Member
Posts: 760
Likes: 292
Currently Offline
|
Post by RinTin on Aug 17, 2015 8:14:01 GMT -8
Dave, I don't recall if your trailer has been restored or not, but if you have any rotten wood, the musty smell will never go away.
|
|
Dave K
Active Member
Posts: 159
Likes: 54
1958 Franklin Travel Trailer
Currently Offline
|
Post by Dave K on Aug 17, 2015 8:44:04 GMT -8
Dave, I don't recall if your trailer has been restored or not, but if you have any rotten wood, the musty smell will never go away. It hasn't yet been restored. We plan on doing a full resto, but currently it is in great condition and we hope to get at least 2 years of camping out of it before we park it for a yearlong restoration project. There is very minimal signs of water on this thing. I did find a heap of mouse poo under the bottom cabinet drawer near the wheel well. I'm hoping that is what caused the bad smell.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Aug 17, 2015 9:03:10 GMT -8
Remember this about vintage campers...if you find rodent signs (GAWDIHATEMICE!!!) where they are accessible, there are probably 10 or 13 or 50 places that are not accessible to clean where they may well have left their leavings also....like this space entombed beneath the shower floor.... This was an area that I really did not intend to open up, if not for the plumbing problems I encountered.
|
|