dochalpin
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1962 Shasta Deluxe
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Post by dochalpin on Apr 16, 2015 11:43:03 GMT -8
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kaldog66
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Post by kaldog66 on Apr 16, 2015 11:53:12 GMT -8
Looking Good.
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Post by bigbill on Apr 16, 2015 14:59:51 GMT -8
I would suggest removing the front window and the front alum skin, this will allow you a good look at the possible rot you need to replace. Much better than going from inside then discovering you have to start over because of things you missed.
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dochalpin
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1962 Shasta Deluxe
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Post by dochalpin on Apr 16, 2015 15:04:22 GMT -8
I would suggest removing the front window and the front alum skin, this will allow you a good look at the possible rot you need to replace. Much better than going from inside then discovering you have to start over because of things you missed. I will be doing that on Saturday. It's supposed to rain tomorrow and don't want water to get inside.
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Post by bigbill on Apr 16, 2015 15:08:45 GMT -8
Not trying to boss just trying to save you some time, energy and money. Buy a tarp to keep the water out, you will need it most likely.
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dochalpin
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1962 Shasta Deluxe
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Post by dochalpin on Apr 16, 2015 15:17:03 GMT -8
Not trying to boss just trying to save you some time, energy and money. Buy a tarp to keep the water out, you will need it most likely. Tarp is on already.
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Post by vikx on Apr 16, 2015 20:51:23 GMT -8
One end at a time... LOL. Here is a collection of photos of my 57 Deluxe and the build: 57shastadeluxe.shutterfly.com/Click on Pictures and Videos to view the albums. I was lucky that this Deluxe had new roof metal, but the PO gutted the paneling, making it twice as difficult to do ceiling and wall repairs. If you notice, the front and back still had to come completely off as well as the siding to fix the rot. Deluxes are nice trailers. Take your time, learn and we'll be here to help!
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dochalpin
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1962 Shasta Deluxe
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Post by dochalpin on Apr 19, 2015 13:19:42 GMT -8
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 19, 2015 20:43:19 GMT -8
BigBill touched on it, but you have no idea how much easier it is to tackle this job from the outside, working in.
Leave the paneling attached as a template until you have all your wall framing repaired. The place to start is at the bottom of the walls (sill boards) which is why the skins need to be at least lifted to confirm they are OK, or to replace the rotten boards below the floor. I do about two trailers per year, and have not seen one trailer yet, including the riveted skin trailers, that did not have serious rot somewhere. It even makes doing the new wiring and plumbing easier to do it from the outside.
The skin is the "first thing to remove", and the "last thing to install", not the paneling. Your not saving any work, any money, and it for sure takes longer, trying to rebuild it from the inside.
Just one man's opinion.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 19, 2015 20:51:23 GMT -8
One end at a time... LOL. Here is a collection of photos of my 57 Deluxe and the build: 57shastadeluxe.shutterfly.com/Click on Pictures and Videos to view the albums. I was lucky that this Deluxe had new roof metal, but the PO gutted the paneling, making it twice as difficult to do ceiling and wall repairs. If you notice, the front and back still had to come completely off as well as the siding to fix the rot. Deluxes are nice trailers. Take your time, learn and we'll be here to help! LOL, yep Vikx, "one end at a time" is how I completely rebuilt the 1963 Field and Stream that Larry photographed at Mission Bay.
I rolled the roof skin back over the front of the trailer and rebuilt the back half. Then rolled the roof back and flipped the front roof skin over the back, while I rebuilt the front of the trailer. The roof skin never came off, or hit the ground, LOL. All done by one "old guy", in a driveway!
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Post by danrhodes on Apr 20, 2015 7:30:10 GMT -8
Anyone have a link to those photos? Looked all over...found the Mallard, but not the F&S shots.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 20, 2015 7:47:50 GMT -8
LOL, yep Vikx, "one end at a time" is how I completely rebuilt the 1963 Field and Stream that Larry photographed at Mission Bay.
I rolled the roof skin back over the front of the trailer and rebuilt the back half. Then rolled the roof back and flipped the front roof skin over the back, while I rebuilt the front of the trailer. The roof skin never came off, or hit the ground, LOL. All done by one "old guy", in a driveway!
Anyone have a link to those photos? Looked all over...found the Mallard, but not the F&S shots. Dan there is only one photo of the F&S and it's in the Rally Photos thread I started in the Talk About Most Anything thread.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 20, 2015 7:52:06 GMT -8
Doc you need to install the front paneling first and THEN the framing goes over that and attaches to the front of the wall. The framing goes OVER the walls. Not in between them. This is very important for structural integrity reasons. Also you have nothing to attach the paneling to on the sides now. Paneling first, then framing, then wires and plumbing if any, then insulation, vapor barrier and finally metal skin. These things are not built at all like houses. That's because houses are not towed down bumpy roads...
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 20, 2015 11:22:28 GMT -8
Mobil, I see what you're thinking there and I thought Doc had those new horizontal 1x2's temporarily attached for support across the front Then he's going to remove them, put the paneling on and add the framing over it, and the curbing. But taking another look at the side, he seems to be shoring up the framing, which has to come off for the paneling to go behind it.
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 20, 2015 11:35:56 GMT -8
dochalpin Here's a pic of the back of mine which goes together like the front: You can see where the panel has been replaced, the next step would be the framing, horizontal 1x2's, then the curbing.
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