SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 7:29:03 GMT -8
I'm curious as to how each of you fasten your table leg to the floor. I have the standard tapered wooden leg on the early Shasta Compact. The PO who lived in it had it fastened with a hook and eye. The PO who sold it to me didn't know it that it would come out, it was that sturdy. I can't tell what was there originally because my table was shortened and there were just small holes where the leg originally fastened. But I really don't like the eye sticking up in the floor to bump my toe on when the table is not in use. What have you done? What was there originally?
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 16, 2015 9:54:27 GMT -8
The hook and eye were common in the earlier Shastas, including the '64 Airflyte: You could reverse this setup...put the hook at the top of the leg and the eye in the bottom of the table. Better still may be a locking bracket, attached to the underside of the table. The leg staying on the floor is not all that critical, but what is would be NOT kicking the leg out from under the table....
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 10:24:17 GMT -8
Thanks, Ten. That's exactly what mine has. Guess it was original and they just made a new hole in the floor when the cut the table down.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 16, 2015 10:33:51 GMT -8
I'm curious as to how each of you fasten your table leg to the floor. I have the standard tapered wooden leg on the early Shasta Compact. The PO who lived in it had it fastened with a hook and eye. The PO who sold it to me didn't know it that it would come out, it was that sturdy. I can't tell what was there originally because my table was shortened and there were just small holes where the leg originally fastened. But I really don't like the eye sticking up in the floor to bump my toe on when the table is not in use. What have you done? What was there originally? You could use device at the top of the leg to prevent it from folding if bumped and not fasten it to the floor. This could be copied from a card/folding table or it could be made from wood and hinged at one end and a stop block at the other. The later models with metal legs didn't fasten to the floor. There are many different types of anti folding devices that have been used on tables during the last several hundred years. Research furniture pictures over the years the designs for anti folding devices go from simple to exotic. Just another thought.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 10:39:54 GMT -8
Thanks, Bill. I might even have one in the basement left over from a toy box project.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 16, 2015 10:41:23 GMT -8
Another thought would be to install a hole in the floor deep enough to drop a small pin into that was fastened to the bottom of the table leg. You could use a piece of tube pressed/driven into the floor to prevent the hole from expanding from wear. Deburred and driven flush you would never notice it if you slide your foot over it. Also if needed a block of wood could be secured to the bottom side of the floor in that location to allow for a longer pin without creating an opening to the outside.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 10:46:54 GMT -8
I thought about doing something like that with my other trailer that has no table yet. I think I'm going to countersink the holder for a round pipe-type leg.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 16, 2015 11:08:41 GMT -8
I thought about doing something like that with my other trailer that has no table yet. I think I'm going to countersink the holder for a round pipe-type leg. I used to used the tube tables in my truck campers where space was really limited. The down falls are where to put table when not in use and occasionally the taper lock gets stuck and can be a "pita" to remove. Also many floor brackets even though they say flush stick up about 3/8 of an inch, and the hole tends to collect debris. The world is full of trade offs everything has a disadvantage somewhere.
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Post by vikx on Feb 16, 2015 22:14:31 GMT -8
I use a simple wood peg with a rather tight hole in the floor; about 3/8". The tight helps keep things from wearing. So far so good...
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Feb 18, 2015 16:29:52 GMT -8
I saw a photo a couple of weeks ago that had a piece of wood that was routered out to the shape of the leg. You dropped the leg into it, and it held it in place. Kind of cool, but they didn't do a good job. If I used that approach, I would taper the edges of the wood and make it nice. I can't find the photo if your wondering why it's not posted, but I am sure you get the idea.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 18, 2015 19:39:49 GMT -8
I saw a photo a couple of weeks ago that had a piece of wood that was routered out to the shape of the leg. You dropped the leg into it, and it held it in place. Kind of cool, but they didn't do a good job. If I used that approach, I would taper the edges of the wood and make it nice. I can't find the photo if your wondering why it's not posted, but I am sure you get the idea. That would work but it still sticks up on the floor and you could hit your foot on it.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2015 20:53:39 GMT -8
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 23, 2015 5:08:44 GMT -8
That just seems to easy, Larry. I think I might try that for now to keep from putting a hole in the floor.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 23, 2015 6:44:16 GMT -8
SusieQ That is a great idea and very cost effective. The other thing you could add to your table leg is a magnetic fastener at the other end that would secure it in the folded position while in or being converted to the bed position. It keeps the leg from flopping down.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 23, 2015 6:47:59 GMT -8
bigbill, that leg flopping down is a problem. That's a good idea, too. Every time I pick that table up, I forget about the floppy leg.
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