aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Nov 29, 2014 6:22:43 GMT -8
Hello Shasta trailer'ers, I have been cruising around this board for a few weeks and finding great info so I thought I would join. I just bought a 1968 Shasta Airflyte that has been semi redone. Im starting at the ground first, just finished rebuild and repacking the electric brakes and bearings and now on to wiring. The PO did and ok job with getting it ready to go but it needs work. Though it does not leak I will be reskining in the future, there is tons of caulking under the new paint (which I will be changing the color to a more retro look). Just wanted to make sure this is a 1968 Airflyte the trailers width is 92" Thanks and look forward to cruising the board and posting any info that would be useful aaron
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Nov 29, 2014 6:58:02 GMT -8
to the forum, Aaron. Nice trailer. I'm guessing you probably don't have a hot pink tow vehicle. We look forward to seeing some interior pics and following your progress.
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Post by vintagebruce on Nov 29, 2014 7:29:16 GMT -8
Welcome to VTT. I saw your Shasta when it was advertised and thought it has a pretty cool paint scheme. Congratulations on your purchase! And of course SusieQ is correct, we are all looking forward to seeing more pics of the inside! We are a visual group. Speaking of pics, here is a thread to a 1968 Shasta Airflyte that was being offered on TCT. It sure looks exactly like yours except for the wings which you can add. So I'd say yours is a '68 Airflyte. www.tincantourists.com/classified/showproduct.php?product=6511#.VHnnoLctBjo
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Nov 29, 2014 7:39:31 GMT -8
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Dec 15, 2014 20:29:35 GMT -8
Guys been busy with work and holiday stuff but got a chance to get some head way done on Sunday. I have included some pictures of the PO interior job. I have discovered a few hidden jems that was covered over. I want to doing the repair the right way. I have removed the floor and re framed the wood rotted joists, the PO removed the back paneling and back side paneling, re framed the rot around windows but did nothing with the rotted floor?!?!. I understand how the trailer was built after researching and he did this from the inside. The new paneling stopped short of the floor (should have gone passed the floor on the outside). So what I have and you will see on the pictures (post tomorrow) is the back paneling 1/2 to short. I pulled the skirt boards (which were rotted bad) they will need to be replaced. I need a plan of how to fasten the back and how the skirt boards were built and fasten since the were rotted. My plan is to get her patched up right but keep the old skin til next year when I will do a reskin. I would like to use her this year. Any thoughts? Thanks for this awesome board and all ya trailerheads! www.dropbox.com/sh/nm0926w8ivj1awu/AADBxiSpvYK6k842DOpO3o4da?dl=0
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Post by vikx on Dec 15, 2014 22:14:00 GMT -8
Hi Aaron,
If you have a metal belly, it will be harder to get to the joists and floor cross pieces. It is sometimes easier to get thru from the inside... replace all the old fiberglass insulation with styrofoam and reframe before the subfloor.
The skirt boards were normally attached to sill (floor joists) boards. First, determine if your sills need to be replaced. They are pretty easy to slip into place between the floor and frame. The lower skins determine the skirt shape; you can tack the skin back in place to get an exact pattern after a rough fit.
There are quite a few photo stories here on the board that might help. Try the restoration section. I'm sure our peeps will chime in too.
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Dec 16, 2014 7:41:55 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Dec 16, 2014 20:47:46 GMT -8
Looks pretty sound so far!
I don't know what to say about the metal belly. The darn things collect water and cause severe floor damage. I've drilled 1/4 holes to allow drainage. Not sure if that helps, but something's gotta give. Better than a belly full of water...
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Dec 17, 2014 6:20:23 GMT -8
Yeah Vikx the floor was really sound it was just the old paneling that went down over the outside floor and what the skirt attached to. I have a sign company and a CNC router, we use alot of PVC board (non rotting and weather proof) for our signs. My thought is to use 3/4" PVC board and cut it to the shape of the aluminum skirt and attach it to the outside floor cutting out were the wall studs come down. Should be able to get her sealed up this weekend i will post pictures. I think this should hold me over til next year when I will do a full reskin and replace all damaged wood. Again thank you and this forum it has been a great help. Cant wait to build the Gaucho.
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Post by vikx on Dec 17, 2014 22:20:19 GMT -8
The sign board is almost the same as Coroplast. I've used it for bellies before. Have fun.
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Dec 21, 2014 11:15:44 GMT -8
Well made some progress this weekend. I had to be creative since I did not want to pull the skin yet. So what I found that should be in every trailer rebuilders tool kit. Flush cut off tool and Kreg jig (pocket screw tool) These two tools really helped with only remove what was necessary. So I removed the rot with the cut off tool preped for new skirting. I used 3/4" PVC board for the skirting, being that it will not rot and is some what structural should be a good choice. Also I have this on hand at my sign shop and work with it everyday. I was able to mark the board in place and jig saw around wall studs, put it in temporary place and install the skin and mark it for cutting. After cutting I used the kreg jig to make the pocket holes to mount to the bottom wall board. After mounting the skirt I was able to seal up the back end and screw the skirt to the bottom floor joist. Turned out nice very rigid and will not rot. I also was able to get the rear floor in. So for now made some good headway. Just thought I would share my experience with this fix. i138.photobucket.com/albums/q253/aaronsuicide/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG2478_zpsxzcja4vt.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Dec 21, 2014 13:16:38 GMT -8
Not a good choice of materials for the application. You would want something that is a structural material, and being able to glue the existing wood to the new material is also a big plus.
PVC is great for outside decking that gets the weather.
Just my opinion.
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Dec 21, 2014 16:20:00 GMT -8
This board is pretty rigid I have build entire monument signs from the dense board that have been in the Florida weather with great results. I agree that it would have been a better to glue to the existing wood but I feel that it is a good temporary fix until I can do a real full resto by removing the skin and replacing it right. Also I will have a good template to cut from when resto time comes around. Good little test will see what it looks like next summer when I pull it all apart.
From what I have found the density of various pines are from 25-40 lb/ft3 and the PVC board is 48-52 lb/ft3. Im sure there are differences in tensile strengths nail hold and structural hold, from working with PVC and building this should be fine for a temporary fix. Also the wall studs were still in good condition in some locations that attached to the floor joist.
Could be wrong and it would not be the fist time:)
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Post by vikx on Dec 21, 2014 20:37:32 GMT -8
I'm very curious how this PVC will work for you, especially since the plan is to open the trailer up later. I've never tried it. Great photos, thanks for sharing with us!
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aaron77
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1968 Airflyte
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Post by aaron77 on Jan 19, 2015 19:05:43 GMT -8
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