boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jul 5, 2013 11:16:19 GMT -8
Susan I got a 5050 btu wall unit for my 1500 and it will blow the cool air out a couple of feet above the floor exhausting the hot air out the side through the old furnace vent and I will duct cool air from under the trailer to pull in the sides and I plan on do the best insulation job possible in the ceiling as I put it back plus I am going to coat the roof with three layers of Kool-Seal which they claim will reduce heat gain taking part of the load off the A/C. I think it will work but we won't know for sure till we try it. Wish me luck. Lopo put 2-3 coats on Mr Sam`s roof and I think this really helps. I`d prefer not to put anything on the 1500`s roof but we`ll see. There are so many factors involved in ac installations that I didn`t realize when we started. LUCK!!!!
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jul 5, 2013 11:42:38 GMT -8
@ Lopo.. My first trip this year starts on July 25th so I'll have it in by then.. I'll show how I do the vent, and the 'caster containment) I've got a couple ideas on how to makethe vent look good and function well, but I need the unit 'in hand' before I start cutting ~ @ Susan.. I live in NH, but the last 7+ days have been 90+ with high humidity with more coming.. It's not as bad as the SOuth, but we have plenty of warm air in the summers We used a vent cover similar to what is used to vent a propane fridge. It restricts the air flow from the rear of the unit really bad, which surprised us as its a pretty open style vent. We have to remove it when we camp but I`m looking for a baggage type door to fit in its place.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 5, 2013 11:54:57 GMT -8
I have coated roofs for years and had no problems. I don't use roof coating as a leak stop if a roof is leaking it requires a mechanical repair, but kool-seal is a flexible white product that helps prevent heat transfer. Even used in that manner it should be cleaned an recoated every five or so years. It also helps prevent hail damage.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 24, 2013 16:53:25 GMT -8
I'm the PO of boandsusan's Mr. Sam, and have the portable unit that I want to install in the closet of my Frolic. It's crazy to try to use the long hose with these units because they take up way too much space, and the heat radiating from the hose from the unit to the outdoors is ridiculous. I want to install mine without the hose, more or less flush to the side of the trailer where I will cut a hole to vent it. But the "more or less" part is what I need help with. Here are the issues: 1) Does the vent need to be fitted into a circular hole with a tight fight? If so, what about having to pull the unit out periodically to clean the filter? 2) The unit is on casters. How to keep it stationary, yet also able to come out so that I can reach the filter? 3) It's not supposed to need to drain, but reviews of this unit say it's prone to overflowing onto the floor, so I think it would be wise to put it on a baker's pan or something, and put a drain through the floor to the ground. Can someone help me with designing the installation? Just thinking out loud here. You could use whatever type of pan fits the bottom footprint (or make a pretty wooden drawer and coat the inside with epoxy), and mount it on drawer slides for when you wanted to slide it out for the filter changes (with a latch to keep it in place, simply inserting a pin down through the drawer face into a socket in the floor would work). You don't need a tight seal, or even contact, between drawer drain and floor drain, for a gravity-drip water drain, as long as the pan drain lines up over a flared water exit tube through the floor when the drawer is pushed back. Take the casters off to lose a little height and not have to worry about it rolling around when towing. You could make mounts in the "drawer" that attach to the caster mount holes on the unit (using bolts, or whatever mechanism is used to hold the casters on, even if it meant cutting the mount rods off the casters and welding them onto plates screwed into the drawer. The shape of the vent hole won't matter, as long as it is of at least the same area as the vent on the unit, and has a smooth transition from round to square or whatever, both so that it doesn't restrict airflow. You could make two short vent ducts, one mounted to the wall and one mounted on the unit, tapered so the unit vent fits snugly into the wall vent duct (like one funnel cone sliding inside another) when you slide it back, with the unit duct wrapped with something like mouse pad neoprene so that it seals between the two, so you wouldn't have to worry about attaching the two together... Basically you'd pull the "drawer" out to change the filter, and when you pushed it back in, the unit vent would snug into the wall vent and self seal, and the pan drain would sit over the floor drain.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 24, 2013 17:07:54 GMT -8
A canning funnel like you use to fill jars makes an excellent place for your A/C to drip into and it can be screened with a small section of screen wire and a hose clamp on the snout to keep unwanted visitors out. Hold it in place with a couple of L brackets made from scrape siding or whatever you have around.
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