annbclay
Active Member
Posts: 108
Likes: 12
1961 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by annbclay on Aug 13, 2014 8:16:13 GMT -8
I remember seeing somewhere a comment on sourcing the moulding that wraps the wing. What I noticed was they had found some that was already soft and pliable enough to wrap without needing to be annealed. I can't seem to find my notes about the source. Does anyone know what I'm referring to? And how to source it? thanks
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Aug 13, 2014 14:27:32 GMT -8
If you have a friend with a torch, it's very easy to anneal the aluminum.
Depending on your metal thickness and bend radius, you might need to anneal the metal "more than once" as you bend it.
|
|
annbclay
Active Member
Posts: 108
Likes: 12
1961 Shasta Compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by annbclay on Aug 14, 2014 17:54:23 GMT -8
Ok thanks. I was worried maybe it would be hard to hit the right temperature and then to melt the aluminum! I'll buy some extra length and practice a little I guess.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Aug 14, 2014 19:18:04 GMT -8
Yup, it will be very hard to hit the correct temp, and yes you will melt it, unless you do as outlined.
Turn the torch on with "acetylene only" for a yellow "carbon rich" flame.
Coat the aluminum to be annealed with the carbon soot from the rich flame.
Turn on the oxygen up, until you get a normal hot blue flame, like you would use for welding.
Move this hotter flame back and forth over the blackened area of the aluminum to be annealed. Do NOT let the torch stay in one spot, keep it moving, or you will melt the metal.
Like magic, you will see the black carbon coating disappear before your eyes at exactly the correct temperature needed to anneal the aluminum. When this occurs, remove the torch heat, and let the metal cool to room temperature.
Bend away!
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Aug 14, 2014 21:49:24 GMT -8
John, did I understand correctly? You cool the metal before bending? Thanks.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Aug 14, 2014 22:06:37 GMT -8
John, did I understand correctly? You cool the metal before bending? Thanks.
Actually, In annealing the aluminum to soften it for bending and stretching, you "allow it to cool" to room temperature, you don't want to "cool it".
You would be surprised how much stiffness is removed with this process. You need to take some 1/16 extruded angle (which is naturally stiff), cut out a plywood template, screw it down to a work bench, and experiment with your bends.
One thing to remember when you work with bending any aluminum. It likes to stretch, it does NOT like to compress (without kinking). You need to use a shrinker to compress the metal if making a tight radius.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Aug 15, 2014 8:20:59 GMT -8
Also if you are using an extruded trim with varying thickness it becomes much more difficult to bend.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2014 9:31:31 GMT -8
Thanks, I thought you had to bend it warm. We've been experimenting with Wings and other items. The shrinker/stretcher from Harbor Freight puts lines in the trim. It works but you can see the marks. I guess practice makes perfect...
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 569
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Aug 15, 2014 20:01:55 GMT -8
Thanks, I thought you had to bend it warm. We've been experimenting with Wings and other items. The shrinker/stretcher from Harbor Freight puts lines in the trim. It works but you can see the marks. I guess practice makes perfect... I have the USA made shrinker/streachers that HF copied.
Yes they also mark up the metal. The thickest metal you can fit between the jaws is 1/16" aluminum, or 16ga steel.
All you need to do is after you have finished forming the metal to your desired shape, is to hit it with a 80 grit DA, then sand with 220, then 400, then polish to a chrome like finish.
You will be surprised what you can make if you put your mind to it.
FYI, the shrinker/streacher will not help you make wing trims because the trim lip is not high enough for the tool(s) to grab the small edge. Just soften the trim (anneal), and bend it around a wood template with a leather mallet. I like to use a small block of hard wood, so I'm not actually hammering directly on the metal.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2014 22:32:10 GMT -8
Thanks again!
|
|
JimD
Junior Member
Posts: 71
Likes: 14
1966 Shasta compact
Currently Offline
|
Post by JimD on Oct 21, 2014 4:34:30 GMT -8
So anyone have a source??
|
|