nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 28, 2014 8:53:19 GMT -8
When you "see a vintage trailer", you will "know it's a vintage trailer". I does not matter if you see it from the highway sitting neglected in a field, or driving down the road to a vintage trailer rally "with much of it replaced". If you repair/refurbish/rebuild/restore or what ever term you select, make sure your work is well done, and safe to tow because these rebuilt trailers are going to be used for another fifty years. Without any doubt, it going to cost you many times what you paid for the trailer to bring it back to original condition. Car Guys already know this from their car restoration experience. IMO, the most important choice is choosing the correct trailer before you start dumping time and money into it. 1950's trailers are going to give you a much better return on investment. That's why they cost more to purchase, they are harder to find, and are in much higher demand (resale value) when you finally sell it. And finally, there's nothing wrong with body filler. The trick is to know "when, where, and how" to use it. Well said. Although every now and then I see a camper that is truly original and unrestored. They are especially beautiful. Almost amazing.
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Post by schweetcruisers on Mar 28, 2014 15:40:15 GMT -8
Ok I admit I used filler, even though I reskined my trailer I had a few areas that were driving me nuts, one was where I pushed too hard on the skin and had a palm crease, another was where the Phillips bit slipped off a screw and dinged the metal. Here is what I know,
1)Bondo is a brand name, it's not the best product. In fact if you call some car restoration shops I bet they'll say that they use Evercoat. I used Evercoat Rage Gold, it was easy to work and had less air pockets. I'm not even sure Maaco uses "Bondo" it's a consumer grade product and not a professional product, hence why it's sold at Home Depot and not professional paint supply stores. 2) Surface prep is everything, clean the surface with "prep and etch", scuff the surface with sandpaper and wipe again with "prep and etch" 3) If you use it do it in what called lifts, meaning apply thin coats and not one thick coat 4) Max recommended depth is 1/4" I recommend nothing thicker then 1/8" 5) Use a glazing company like Uphol Dophin Glaze for your final coat, this will take care of any pin holes. 6) Use a non-porous board, like glass or plastic or one of the disposable parchment paper boards paint stores sale, porous surfaces like wood will absorb moisture and make the product harder to work and not bond as well.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 28, 2014 15:53:32 GMT -8
Ok I admit I used filler, even though I reskined my trailer I had a few areas that were driving me nuts, one was where I pushed too hard on the skin and had a palm crease, another was where the Phillips bit slipped off a screw and dinged the metal. Here is what I know, 1)Bondo is a brand name, it's not the best product. In fact if you call some car restoration shops I bet they'll say that they use Evercoat. I used Evercoat Rage Gold, it was easy to work and had less air pockets. I'm not even sure Maaco uses "Bondo" it's a consumer grade product and not a professional product, hence why it's sold at Home Depot and not professional paint supply stores. 2) Surface prep is everything, clean the surface with "prep and etch", scuff the surface with sandpaper and wipe again with "prep and etch" 3) If you use it do it in what called lifts, meaning apply thin coats and not one thick coat 4) Max recommended depth is 1/4" I recommend nothing thicker then 1/8" 5) Use a glazing company like Uphol Dophin Glaze for your final coat, this will take care of any pin holes. 6) Use a non-porous board, like glass or plastic or one of the disposable parchment paper boards paint stores sale, porous surfaces like wood will absorb moisture and make the product harder to work and not bond as well. Thanks for the guide. I'm surprised how deep you've gone with it. 1/8" has held up over a long period of time? Even on aluminum? I guess if I buy a camper that used filler I need to find out the brand and how deep.
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soup
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Post by soup on Mar 28, 2014 16:24:41 GMT -8
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Post by schweetcruisers on Mar 28, 2014 18:12:21 GMT -8
Ok I admit I used filler, even though I reskined my trailer I had a few areas that were driving me nuts, one was where I pushed too hard on the skin and had a palm crease, another was where the Phillips bit slipped off a screw and dinged the metal. Here is what I know, 1)Bondo is a brand name, it's not the best product. In fact if you call some car restoration shops I bet they'll say that they use Evercoat. I used Evercoat Rage Gold, it was easy to work and had less air pockets. I'm not even sure Maaco uses "Bondo" it's a consumer grade product and not a professional product, hence why it's sold at Home Depot and not professional paint supply stores. 2) Surface prep is everything, clean the surface with "prep and etch", scuff the surface with sandpaper and wipe again with "prep and etch" 3) If you use it do it in what called lifts, meaning apply thin coats and not one thick coat 4) Max recommended depth is 1/4" I recommend nothing thicker then 1/8" 5) Use a glazing company like Uphol Dophin Glaze for your final coat, this will take care of any pin holes. 6) Use a non-porous board, like glass or plastic or one of the disposable parchment paper boards paint stores sale, porous surfaces like wood will absorb moisture and make the product harder to work and not bond as well. Thanks for the guide. I'm surprised how deep you've gone with it. 1/8" has held up over a long period of time? Even on aluminum? I guess if I buy a camper that used filler I need to find out the brand and how deep. Mine weren't that deep, just a recommendation on the depth.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 29, 2014 8:07:34 GMT -8
I dunno if I could have found skin with the complex break pattern of my '76, but I know I couldn't afford it if I did. Mine also has rigid foam insulation in contact with the skin pretty much everywhere. I bet that helps deaden vibration a lot. This video half way down the page has a place that makes the skin in CA. They do a lot of styles but shipping would be expensive, I'm sure. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/I also wonder at what point a vintage camper stops being a vintage camper? Replace the skin, most of the birch inside, maybe add a frig in place of the ice box, replace the formica, flooring, and put a microwave in place of the oven and is it still vintage? Sort of like the people who say the U.S.S. Constitution has been restored so many times that there isn't anything original left in it. Does it matter? It's really all about symbolism anyway...
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1958 Shasta "Penny"
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Mar 29, 2014 8:11:56 GMT -8
All I know, is that I LOATHE bondo right now. The P.O. must have been smokin' something when he covered about 2/3 of our trailer in the stuff. So I have been stripping it off for the past three days. Like a huge spot.....only to uncover a tiny pin dent. Grrrrrrrrr.
My arms are as big as Popeye's now from all the stripping off bondo. And I'm a girl.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 29, 2014 14:46:02 GMT -8
I have restored historic houses and replaced every door, molding, window, floor board, cabinet and piece of hardware. Then people come in and say, "I love the attention to detail in these old house." And..."it has such character". It makes me smile.
It does bring up the question of at one point my camper stops being vintage and becomes a reproduction. And does it matter?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 29, 2014 14:48:12 GMT -8
All I know, is that I LOATHE bondo right now. The P.O. must have been smokin' something when he covered about 2/3 of our trailer in the stuff. So I have been stripping it off for the past three days. Like a huge spot.....only to uncover a tiny pin dent. Grrrrrrrrr. My arms are as big as Popeye's now from all the stripping off bondo. And I'm a girl. Are you going to leave it with dings or refill? How old was the filler?
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dawn
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Post by dawn on Mar 30, 2014 10:30:11 GMT -8
I have restored historic houses and replaced every door, molding, window, floor board, cabinet and piece of hardware. Then people come in and say, "I love the attention to detail in these old house." And..."it has such character". It makes me smile. It does bring up the question of at one point my camper stops being vintage and becomes a reproduction. And does it matter? Yeah, I've wondered about those distinctions and how they apply to vintage trailers, too. We've been doing historic renovations, restorations, and in some cases, reproductions on old buildings for years and even on brick and mortar the lines can be blurry. I think that most of these ground-up trailer rebuilds would have to be considered reproductions by any standard as there is often nothing left of the original except the frame and vin. But whether it matters or not is going to be up to each individual as I don't think there is a basic minimum standard for how much original material need remain for it to be a vintage restoration. Although there does seem to be some group preferences for certain features and fixtures.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 30, 2014 16:24:41 GMT -8
Bondo even though it is a brand name many people use the word bondo reffering to any body filler. I for one refer to it as bondo rather the exact brand that I use, and if you are talking about work some one else has done you have know way of knowing brand name of product so bondo. Sixty years ago Bondo's magic Swiss Formula which was black in the can then later gray then white was the beast out there, but as time went on products improved and were made by many companies. Most are decent today some are easier to work than others. I am still waiting for the one that smooths and sands itself ready for paint with no dust.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 31, 2014 4:53:04 GMT -8
I'm old school too, and call all filler Bondo. Growing up, Bondo was a sign of trouble. "That car has bondo all over it!" was an insult. One person told me bondo is often used on vintage camper "but never in a spot larger than a half dollar" is recommended. But I've seen bondo work that looks perfect and is indistinguishable from the metal panel. And the old magnet trick wouldn't work with a thin aluminum skin.
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Post by vikx on Mar 31, 2014 22:51:21 GMT -8
Yeah, damned if ya do and damned if ya don't...
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Apr 4, 2014 20:46:16 GMT -8
I have restored historic houses and replaced every door, molding, window, floor board, cabinet and piece of hardware. Then people come in and say, "I love the attention to detail in these old house." And..."it has such character". It makes me smile. It does bring up the question of at one point my camper stops being vintage and becomes a reproduction. And does it matter? I find this an interesting question as well. As we were dismantling the Vette I told Jim I wanted to save and mark every piece. He was against this saying it was a waste of time, "it's just wood and in bad shape, we'll just make another closet just like it". And with the bed frame, "their just 2x4's". I marked and numbered each one, fully intending to put them back exactly as they were because of this reason or saving them for someone else to do the same. My first train of thought was that in order to "restore" it, at least a fair percentage of it would need to be the original wood, now I don't know. Should I be trying to "save" as much as possible, or or does it even matter, often it's easier just to replace it. I guess the only answer I see here is that it just depends on whose looking at it when you sell it. But I would think that it would affect selling price. If you never plan on selling it yourself I guess it wouldn't matter. However when I'm putting a fair amount of money into a project; I at least would like to recoup some of the cost, why not maximize the potential. I also see quite a few addicts, um 'er people, on this site who aren't satisfied with just one or decide they want to go a little bigger. The more you have on resale the better that second camper can be.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 5, 2014 5:38:37 GMT -8
However when I'm putting a fair amount of money into a project; I at least would like to recoup some of the cost, why not maximize the potential. I agree completely. If the piece is really wrecked, then we have to replace it. But the more "new" a camper, the less "old" a camper. And for me at least, old is special. If I wanted all new, I'd buy a knock off with all new systems. On my last camping trip I sat at my 52 year old table eating breakfast and thought... When I was a newborn baby in my mother's arms, somebody sat at that very table eating breakfast thinking they were the King of the world in their new camper. I like that.
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