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Post by bigbill on Mar 18, 2014 2:13:04 GMT -8
Just received an Email that Harbor freight has a 45 watt solar panel, 12volt sealed battery, plus other parts on sale starting today. Thought I would post this just as an alert hoping it could save someone some money.
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yas
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Post by yas on Mar 18, 2014 3:24:18 GMT -8
Thanks Bigbill. I was going to try the HF battery that Mobiltec has been using, and it's even better if it's on sale!
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Post by bigbill on Mar 18, 2014 4:48:38 GMT -8
Your welcome Here are the prices
3 15 watt solar panels, mounting hardware,12volt light kit, battery terminal connectors, & auniversal DC power adapter $159.99
12 volt sealed battery Regular $89.99 Sale $59.99
8 panel solar connector $10.49
Panel mounting frame $7.99
I don't know if these are good prices or not so I thought I would list them for your information.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 19, 2014 17:27:26 GMT -8
I just happen to be going by HF tomorrow and picking up 3 of the batteries. I always grab a few when they are on sale. Need one for my Kenskill also. It's for the computer in the refrigerator.
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1958 Shasta "Penny"
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Mar 19, 2014 18:54:27 GMT -8
If I went to HF and told them I need electrical stuff for a trailer, would someone at HF be able to put together everything. I am procuring the supplies, but will have the handyman install. But I have no idea what to purchase...
I'd like to have a battery charging while driving.
I wish there was a complete checklist for these kinds of things.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 19, 2014 19:45:29 GMT -8
You probably won't find some of the RV type stuff there for AC... That kind of stuff you should get from VTS. You can get the 110vac breaker box at HD or Lowes. Also the 12vdc converter and protection device can be found at VTS. Have your handyman read the electrical section in it's entirety and then he can order the parts for you.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 21, 2014 15:29:15 GMT -8
To charge while driving, you need a battery isolator switch with at least as high an amp rating as the alternator in your vehicle. If you just hook the camper battery to the car's electrical system, one battery will get overcharged and one undercharged, killing them both before their time. The isolator switch sends the juice to the camper battery after the car battery is charged. Mine was $36 at NAPA for a 95-amp model.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 21, 2014 17:41:11 GMT -8
Yep... What he said...  |
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hswatek
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Post by hswatek on May 31, 2018 20:33:00 GMT -8
I am working at Lassen Volcanic National Park for most of the summer, and my site will not have electricity. I will need to run everything off of batteries charged by solar. I just bought a Coleman 55w solar system ( half price from a fellow camper) but will need to add another 100 watts to this. I plan on running the mini-fridge off of a 200 watt power pack that I picked up at a local outlet store and using a deep cell for the cooktop, lights, and small heater. I have never been to Lassen but the volunteer coordinator insisted I have a heater ( even though I am a northern girl) so I assume it must get cold there at night. So... thinking a 400 watt converter would do the trick for the lights, heater and cooktop. Any suggestions on brand names? Thanks!
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Post by vikx on May 31, 2018 21:47:41 GMT -8
Not sure why you're trying to go all electric, but most vintage trailers were designed to operated on gas and sometimes 12 volt. In campgrounds, they had ample 110 power to operate the lighting and maybe one outlet. Gas supplied power to the gas light, stove and heater if there was one.
Are you nervous about propane?
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hswatek
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Post by hswatek on Jun 1, 2018 6:53:56 GMT -8
Totally!
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