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Post by vintagebruce on Jan 21, 2016 14:02:24 GMT -8
You might want to check at your Hoods and ask them if they have door skins. They are not 4X8 but if they have them, and you sort through the stacks carefully, you might find enough to do the whole interior that are pretty "clean" and our Hoods charges $4.99 for their birch door skins right now. Also, if I were going to paint the interior, I'd consider clean luan or some other inexpensive paneling.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 21, 2016 16:48:45 GMT -8
Check out Hood Distribution. They have 1/8 inch Birch plywood and have 14 warehouses. If you are fortunate enough to live in a city where there is a warehouse, you are fortunate indeed. I think it sells for $18.50 a 4X8 sheet here in Tucson. Check out their web site. Unfortunately they do not have Ash. The Birch is U.S. made. They also have imported Birch and Ash. Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I was researching where and how to buy birch paneling and came across this. We are lucky, and there is a Hood Distribution in Nashville! I called and they have 5/32 inch birch paneling, 4x8 sheets, for $15. It's not 1/8 but it's really close! Do you all think it will be fine? Also, probably a dumb question, but do we use the same panels for the ceiling as well as the side walls? One more thing, and please don't kick me off the forum for saying this, but we are planning on painting the interior. I know there are many purists out there who are cringing right now, but we've decided that we aren't attempting to restore our trailer to its original look. We want something to enjoy camping in that we love the look of. So fresh and clean and white inside suits our style. I don't know if that changes our paneling needs? Also, I've read lots of you recommend shellacking prior to installing the panel. Same applies for paint or no? If you are painting your trailer it makes no difference what type of paneling you use. But for shellac you need good birch paneling. The latest crap is from China and a lot of the dealers are buying from them for obvious reasons. Problem is we have found the new birch from China to be defective in a few different ways. Nothing that will bother you if you are painting though. You could use 1/8 inch luan which usually goes for around $10 a sheet. Oh and by the way. I doubt you will be thrown off the board for painting the inside of your trailer but you may have to wear a pancake on your head for an hour.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Jan 21, 2016 17:58:17 GMT -8
Larry, we had breakfast for dinner tonight, too busy getting ready for pending epic storm to make proper evening meal, then I see "pancake on your head" and almost had pancakes on my shoes I laughed so hard. Your dog taught you to do that didn't she.
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jehle
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Post by jehle on Jan 30, 2016 21:42:30 GMT -8
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Feb 25, 2016 16:01:34 GMT -8
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bev
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Post by bev on Jul 1, 2016 6:30:52 GMT -8
Any hardwood supplier will have many 1/4" and even a few 1/8" plywood options. Find the supply house for professional cabinet makers. Please don't confuse hardwood supplier with lumber yards. They are 2 different animals. Seldom do these places advertise bc their main customers are professionals.
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ommmjenny
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Post by ommmjenny on Jul 24, 2016 19:50:03 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip, Bev! I asked two local cabinet makers here in Missoula and they directed me to a couple specialized hardwood suppliers, not the main lumber place in town. Look forward to seeing what they have.
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Jul 26, 2016 8:09:11 GMT -8
I am doing a scratch rebuild right now - and plan on having at least part of the ceiling painted. There will be birch walls and other items throughout the trailer, and it seems like 1/8" birch is not available in my area anyway. I'm trying to determine what material to use considering how my roof/ceiling structure is (see below), and I'm considering 5.2 Birch ply, 1/4" hardboard, or a 1/8" white hardboard. Any thoughts on these?
The structure of my ceiling/roof is a bit odd - it's basically the ceiling material (whatever I choose) laid on top of the framed walls, with a sheet and a half of plywood laid over that (just on the very top) to support the roof/vent (with some wedge-like pieces on each side to ease the plywood back into the curve) and then the skin laid over that. I'll likely add some reflective insulation and vapor barrier under the skin as well, but for a large portion of the sides going into the top of the camper, literally it's just skin, foil insulation, and whatever ceiling material I choose.
The lower front - where the dinette is (as well as the lower rear) will have some framing and structure built inset into the cabin a bit (The wall will be inset a few inches there).
It's hard to describe, but the camper I'm working from (1960's Fleetwing) was build similar to this, and I'm basically using it as a template, but trying to make improvements where I can.
Any thoughts on any of those options being the best for my ceiling material?
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Aug 5, 2016 7:35:23 GMT -8
I was able to get 1/8" Okoume Marine Grade (Lloyd's Certified) through Noah's Marine in Toronto (shipped to their warehouse in Buffalo NY for about $43/sheet. They have Meranti for slightly cheaper, but it was out of stock when I ordered.
After a two week exhaustive search, the only other option I had was to special order 1/8" Birch for close to $75/sheet, or try and lay 1/4" instead.
I am painting my ceiling, so the face wood wasn't a huge deal for me. I'll probably also lay down marine epoxy over the top and edges once it's on the camper, since I have quite a bit left from doing the flooring. This should help strengthen it, and also help resist any moisture damage down the road.
-Tom
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bev
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Post by bev on Aug 23, 2016 4:45:53 GMT -8
I am using Prefinished quarter inch (5mm) plywood, which is an import, for the interior of my trailer. It's prefinished on one side and a smoother than most people can achieve by finishing it themselves. It's a birch plywood. The Color is lighter and more yellow than the traditional orange shellac color, but I'm not trying to go original. I just want it to look and function well. It cost slightly more than $20 per sheet. Hardwood suppliers should carry this.
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bullseye17
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Post by bullseye17 on Aug 23, 2016 5:34:07 GMT -8
I am using Prefinished quarter inch (5mm) plywood, which is an import, for the interior of my trailer. It's prefinished on one side and a smoother than most people can achieve by finishing it themselves. It's a birch plywood. The Color is lighter and more yellow than the traditional orange shellac color, but I'm not trying to go original. I just want it to look and function well. It cost slightly more than $20 per sheet. Hardwood suppliers should carry this. For the ceiling? That stuff is a BEAST to bend. Trust me, I've done it.
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bev
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Post by bev on Aug 23, 2016 10:08:07 GMT -8
Yes for my ceiling but my model doesn't have curved ceilings. If it did I would take scrap to determine required kerfing to make the curve. Practice on scrape to determine frequency and depth of kerfs.
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theresa
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Post by theresa on Aug 23, 2016 10:55:36 GMT -8
Yes for my ceiling but my model doesn't have curved ceilings. If it did I would take scrap to determine required kerfing to make the curve. Practice on scrape to determine frequency and depth of kerfs. Bev, if you have readily available 1/8" birch, is there a reason you'd use 1/4" (if your trailer called for it) rather than the easily bendable 1/8"?
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bev
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Post by bev on Aug 23, 2016 12:12:30 GMT -8
Yes, it's stronger, prefinished (super smooth to the touch)and staples won't pull through as easy. Just bc the trailer came a certain way doesn't mean I can't improve on the quality. These shastas were known for less than stellar quality.
I would only use 1/8 inch plywood if I were trying to make it as original as possible. I see no other advantage. I have no desire to keep it original, though I respect those who do.
Being prefinished is my biggest reason. It will save me from several days of labor of applying finish.
The other way I look at it… I can spend an extra 30 minutes or hour on Kerfing the wood in preparation for a bend for each curve or I can use 1/8 inch plywood and spend several days of finishing it. Keep in mind I have the tools readily in my shop,
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theresa
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Post by theresa on Aug 23, 2016 12:51:02 GMT -8
Yes, it's stronger, prefinished (super smooth to the touch)and staples won't pull through as easy. Just bc the trailer came a certain way doesn't mean I can't improve on the quality. These shastas were known for less than stellar quality. I would only use 1/8 inch plywood if I were trying to make it as original as possible. I see no other advantage. I have no desire to keep it original, though I respect those who do. Being prefinished is my biggest reason. It will save me from several days of labor of applying finish. The other way I look at it… I can spend an extra 30 minutes or hour on Kerfing the wood in preparation for a bend for each curve or I can use 1/8 inch plywood and spend several days of finishing it. Keep in mind I have the tools readily in my shop, Gotcha, all very good reasons!
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