chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Dec 28, 2019 17:43:03 GMT -8
Hi folks,
I may be interested in using my gas absorption fridge in cold winter weather. Where I live, the lows could be in the low teens, occasionally lower. On average, in the 20's overnight. The trailer would be parked and electrically connected to my house, therefore operating on the 110V setting instead of propane.
I read the quote below from another RV forum. For those of you with experience with this, do you agree with the strategy outlined, which is to add a "heat load" inside the fridge compartment to prevent disruption to the gas absorption process?
Thanks!
"...if the unit gets too cold while trying to operate, it can solidify. Meaning, basically, the components that make-up the solution in the absorber can separate and become trapped in various places in the system. Not common with modern units but can happen... the fridge needs a heat load to operate properly. If the absorber section, or the condenser section become too cold the process will not be proper. Absorbers work by the basic function that the heat source (gas flame or electric element) heats the liquid causing it to turn to a vapor which travels in the system... if that cools before it reaches its targeted area, then the unit will solidify (or crystallize)... The heat source needs to be either in the fridge or in the outside compartment..." |
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turbodaddy
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17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
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Post by turbodaddy on Dec 28, 2019 18:17:43 GMT -8
Interesting question. All I know is that with the roof vent and side vent on our trailer, the refrigerator compartment gets really cold in winter. We've only stayed in the camper in weather above 25F, and during those times I just turned off the fridge and stuff froze inside. I did insulate as best I could around the fridge with rigid foam panels which seems to help keep the living space less drafty. I guess my question would be why do you want to have it running anyway?
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Post by vikx on Dec 28, 2019 21:35:04 GMT -8
Unless you need it, why run the fridge at all? If being used, the electric elements should warm the cooling unit and you could insulate the fridge cavity with foam. (no need for ventilation on electric) I can see why some sort of heat source might help fridge operation in the teens. Maybe an incandescent light bulb?
If you insulate be SURE the fridge won't automatically switch to propane.
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chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Dec 29, 2019 11:43:17 GMT -8
Interesting question. All I know is that with the roof vent and side vent on our trailer, the refrigerator compartment gets really cold in winter. We've only stayed in the camper in weather above 25F, and during those times I just turned off the fridge and stuff froze inside. I did insulate as best I could around the fridge with rigid foam panels which seems to help keep the living space less drafty. I guess my question would be why do you want to have it running anyway? Somebody may be living in it in the winter. I've figured out all the other cold weather stuff, I'm just checking on the refrigerator issue. Many have reported no problems whatsoever, as long as the interior of the trailer is heated (which mine would be). But some have reported problems, which may be due to "environmental differences" in their particular situations. |
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chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Dec 29, 2019 12:14:00 GMT -8
Unless you need it, why run the fridge at all? If being used, the electric elements should warm the cooling unit and you could insulate the fridge cavity with foam. (no need for ventilation on electric) I can see why some sort of heat source might help fridge operation in the teens. Maybe an incandescent light bulb? If you insulate be SURE the fridge won't automatically switch to propane. This unit will not switch over automatically to propane. Thanks for the safety check on that! The unit cabinet was also well insulated when it was installed.
I believe the ventilation is still important even in electric mode, namely for removal of excessive heat build up from the chemical process that changes the ammonia from liquid to gas, not to mention the heat created from the glow element. My fridge is ventilated low and high (through the roof), with an active fan and has a monitor that reads the internal temperature of ammonia circulation. The main enemy of these units is overheating (and ultimately corrosion), whether on electric or gas. But we are talking about winter here, so all that air circulation to remove operating heat may not be so important. I could still monitor the internal operating temperature of the fridge with the monitoring unit, but not use the circulation fan in cold temps and just let the heat rise out of the roof stack. The extra heat build up without the fan on, may be of benefit to winter operation.
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Post by vikx on Dec 29, 2019 19:27:51 GMT -8
Yes, I was thinking temps in the teens. That's very cold for this type of fridge. I've never tried using one in the winter so have no hands on knowledge.
I think you would get better information on a modern RV forum and from those who use their trailers year round in colder areas. They would know what works and what doesn't.
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