htchevyii
Active Member
Posts: 108
Likes: 31
1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Oct 21, 2019 16:48:46 GMT -8
Hi guys, I've been trying to come up with the best approach to fix the saggy skin on my Lo-Liner. The trailer was disassembled and all the bad wood replaced and the droopy curb side wall fixed. The skin looks fine when it's cool, but when it gets some heat on it, the skin bows pretty bad. I'm sure that it won't be a fun job, I'm thinking I will need to get the skin as warm as I can and will probably have to dowl a bunch of screw holes because the new ones will be right next to the old ones. It still seems like it will be difficult to get tight enough. I think the skin was stretched when the old wall was bowed out, but of course it looked fine when I first installed it in the cold. If course, I put gutter deal on the seams before I painted it, so that should be great. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/159356289@N03/48939309117/in/dateposted-public/" title="20191013_125802"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939309117_ed9a20d2c2_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="20191013_125802"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/159356289@N03/48939310992/in/dateposted-public/" title="20191011_090347"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939310992_1b2b98677b_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20191011_090347"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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turbodaddy
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Posts: 1,086
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17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
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Post by turbodaddy on Oct 21, 2019 19:21:46 GMT -8
Just me, but my 54 year old trailer has all kinds of "scars" that look like what your pics show, I just think of them as adding character and history to the camper. Perfection is not my goal, safety, comfort and reasonable historic accuracy are. No one is ever going to look as closely at the work you've done as you do. I'd just leave it as is and go adventuring. If you do, you will undoubtedly make your own dents and scratches which will only add to the history of the camper.
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Post by vikx on Oct 21, 2019 21:01:00 GMT -8
I tend to agree with Turbodaddy, it's not that bad.
One option is to install body screws on the studs on that side. They can be painted to match and won't show that much. Many trailers have bows in the heat. Some choose the screws, others don't.
Be careful to hit the wall studs if you decide to attach the skin.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Oct 22, 2019 4:43:26 GMT -8
I agree with the above comments, I wouldn’t risk the paint job to fix minor waviness. With that said, I understand why it’s annoying after so much work to have skin issues. Hemet Valley RV told me they heat the building to 80+degrees before installing new skin. It looks like you only have a few screws in the actual skin? The problem is mainly the lower skin? If yes, I’d consider waiting for a hot time of year, really hot, taking out the screws possible without damaging the paint. Glue tiny splints of wood (Like thin wood matches) in the holes without taking the skin off. Pull the staples/ screws off the automold at the bottom where the skin wraps under. In essence the skin would be loose/hanging. Park in the sunned wait for the camper to get really hot. Work from the highest loosened area with an assistant pressing gently down and add screws every 1 1/2’ or so working down. In the end you may have a 1/8” or so space to take up at the automold and the two or three screws originally there (removed and splinted) may need the holes pre-drilled to avoid shifting when the screws go back in. Hopefully that makes sense. I’ve done this on one Shasta and it helped. BUT where it’s buckled at the S-lock/seam you’ll have to live with it in hot weather. I pre-painted the new screws beforehand. And you may or may not have to unscrew the jrail. Our Shasta campers had very few screws in the walls. Our Forester had a screw every 3rd break (12”). Expand this photo and you’ll see I stretched it to about every 1 1/2’ apart. All of this is based on the assumption the wall framing is straight.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 22, 2019 5:54:30 GMT -8
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htchevyii
Active Member
Posts: 108
Likes: 31
1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
Currently Offline
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Post by htchevyii on Oct 22, 2019 6:58:33 GMT -8
The lower picture is when its cold. I added a few painted screws, but I think it just made it worse, it seems to make pressure points around them, I'm afraid that the aluminum will eventually crack. We live on the coast and I never even noticed an issue until we travel someplace hot. Unfortunately for me, I am anal and will need to try to make it better, even if it means that I have to repaint the entire side of the trailer. I guess I need to decide if I can live with more screws or if I want to tear it all apart hoping that it will be better when I am done. It's tough to get the skin warm enough, since it's cold here. Even in the shop with a heater, I am never going to be able to get it as hot as it gets when its 100 degrees out.
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Post by davesshasta16sc on May 22, 2023 12:38:11 GMT -8
The enemy of good is better.
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