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Post by championhomepa on Oct 2, 2019 2:18:37 GMT -8
I recently acquired my maternal grandparents cottage. Slightly prior to my grandfather passing away in 1971 he acquired a travel trailer which still sits on the property. I found a placard on the trailer ... Champion Home Builders Company Dryden, Michigan. The serial number stamped into the placard looks to read 3 1854.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 2, 2019 2:24:11 GMT -8
The company is still in business but they said they only keeps records back 7 years. Have not been able to locate the title yet. Does anyone have suggestions for research other than the company and the state DOT?
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studeclunker
Member
Posts: 42
Likes: 9
'51 Spartanette Tandem
Currently Offline
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Post by studeclunker on Oct 2, 2019 13:46:22 GMT -8
Photos would be helpful. Kinda hard to ID it otherwise.
I used to live in a 10 X 50 Champion back in the seventies. It was a nice coach and not very old at the time.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 8, 2020 19:47:03 GMT -8
Have made some progress since last year. I have been told that what I have is a mobile home since the trailer has 110 volt AC wiring and a fuse box. Have no plans on connecting power due to the mouse, chipmunk, and squirrel damage. Working on posting photos.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 8, 2020 20:27:59 GMT -8
link
Let me know if link allows viewing of all four sides of Champion Home.
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Post by vikx on Oct 9, 2020 9:54:09 GMT -8
Your photos are showing. It looks like there is some replacement metal on the back, not sure.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 11, 2020 2:01:09 GMT -8
Low back side was cut off by my uncle in order to access behind shower wall which is located on left side of back view. Rather than reinstalling original siding he opted for what you see ... outer panels are carbon steel sheets and center panel is fiberglass panel sheet.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 11, 2020 2:50:44 GMT -8
The first project that I think I am going to undertake is removing the current paint ... the original factory paint job is the blue that you see peaking though in some locations ... the white was applied by my uncle and is an off the shelf retail store paint ergo the pealing white paint ... the red is industrial steel mill building paint provided to my uncle by my father. That history being provided what would be the the easiest method of removing all the paints in order to get to the raw aluminum? I hesitate to use any liquids since my water supply is a well. I have contemplated using wire cup brush or sand blaster. My plan is to leave trailer raw aluminum.
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 11, 2020 6:42:31 GMT -8
Hello and welcome! I love the old mobile home trailers of that period. I am sure in their day they were gorgeous with all the wood paneling and just space for a change over a typical canned ham. I think your priority should be to fix the rear of the trailer first. The left rear wall is smashed and the patch is just asking for continuing problems with rodents as well as water and snow damage. champion home 4 by pa championhome, on Flickr It's nice to work on the outer skin, because we feel it will look better, but I can only stress that this should be last on your list. It's also a TON of work. That old paint doesn't always come off easily. It's getting cold as Fall and Winter approach and those chemicals for removing paint won't work as well in the cold. I am sure you have leaks in the ceiling as well or along the sides of the trailer. That's also a priority. Just sharing my opinion. It's really up to you what to do first. Cheers, Rod
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Post by vikx on Oct 11, 2020 9:49:40 GMT -8
I agree with Rod. I think the paint is the LAST chore that should be done on the trailer. With limited water, stripping doesn't seem to be an option. Using wire brushes on aluminum really makes a mess and leaves some deep grooves behind. Fix the rear with aluminum trailer siding before winter if you can or at least tarp it.
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Post by championhomepa on Oct 13, 2020 21:56:00 GMT -8
Thanks for the advise. Trips to the property have all but ended until April 2021. May possibly make Saturday trips if no rain is predicted. I will start researching repairing the lower rear side during hiatus. Reason I asked about removing the paint is I will be using Dicor DiFlex II TPO Roofing for repair of the roof and the roofing will extend three inches on the sides. The roofing will go from seam on front just above windows to seam on back. Any recommendations for back repair material? I am familiar with Hemet Valley RV. I will need to take a closer look corner molding since it has been removed and discarded in that area in the back.
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Post by vikx on Oct 14, 2020 11:36:26 GMT -8
I do not recommend rubber roofing of any kind. The warranty is only 12 years and it can fail quickly if left out in the elements. Do heavy research into the product you plan to use and read reviews if available. I've repaired my last rubber roof. Never again.
Aluminum siding should be fine for the back. Find a pattern that looks a bit vintage that you will be happy with. It's possible an RV shop would have extra siding, so check around your area to see what's available.
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Post by championhomepa on Nov 10, 2020 10:06:41 GMT -8
Woodlin window hardware linkThe trailer has Woodlin window hardware to open and shut windows. Currently previous owner has all windows screwed shut. Removed screws and only one of 12 windows have hardware that works. Did an online search an unable to find any replacement or rebuild information. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by Teachndad on Nov 11, 2020 21:58:10 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
My answer is not based on any actual knowledge, but Woodlin windows were not manufactured as much as the more popular and well known Hehr windows. If that's the case, then the window operators could be really hard to come by and or repair.
Did you lubricate all moving parts in attempt to get them working again? Can you share if you know what's broken on them? That might help. If we know exactly what's broken, maybe collectively, we can come up with a work around.
Rod
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Post by championhomepa on Nov 26, 2020 4:23:06 GMT -8
When the window gear operator stopped working the previous owner removed the operator and threw the operator away then screwed the window shut therefore my trailer requires replacement operators for some of the windows. Bear with me while I try to provide more detail using the 'Woodlin window hardware link' from post #12. Please understand that I am not savvy with the terminology that I should be using therefore I am using terminology from similar hardware I have found online. The crank and arm closely resembles Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-323. Each window operates with a single crank and arm. That being said the arm to window connection closely resembles Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-410 and VTS-409 but the fixed metal disk at the end of VTS-410 for my arm has a flexible metal clip held on by the button and that clip is what slides in the track. For the two vista view windows located on the trailer side near the front ('link' from post #4) the crank still closely resembles Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-323 but the arm closely resembles Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-298 and the arm to window connection is the same as previously described. My only option may end up being to Frankenstein replacements. The one thing that I have not been able to figure out is how to convert Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-323 arm from its nylon friction pad to the Vintage Trailer Supply VTS-410 fixed metal disk plus how to fabricate the flexible metal clip. Thoughts, advice, and/or recommendations anyone?
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