doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 4, 2019 17:09:45 GMT -8
Needing to re-seal my roof, best options?? GO!!
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PT
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1964 Aloha & 1962 Holiday House
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Post by PT on Aug 4, 2019 17:49:12 GMT -8
Uh-oh... The crew here gets pretty worked up about "roof seal" questions. If you like a dry trailer that has a great vintage look stay away from caulking and roof goop sealers. They don't work and look like crap.
Removing and cleaning Jrail - vents and other trim pieces and then resealing with fresh putty tape is the way to go. Also clean the skin where the Jrail/vents, etc. contact the putty and you can put a small dab of gutter seal on staple holes before applying new putty tape. Clean with paint thinner or similar solvent.
If there is a leak along a roof seam I think some here have had a good experience with Proflex sealant applied along the seam but opinions will likely vary on this.
Others will chime in :-)
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 4, 2019 17:54:54 GMT -8
Uh-oh... The crew here gets pretty worked up about "roof seal" questions. If you like a dry trailer that has a great vintage look stay away from caulking and roof goop sealers. They don't work and look like crap. Removing and cleaning Jrail - vents and other trim pieces and then resealing with fresh putty tape is the way to go. Also clean the skin where the Jrail/vents, etc. contact the putty and you can put a small dab of gutter seal on staple holes before applying new putty tape. Clean with paint thinner or similar solvent. If there is a leak along a roof seam I think some here have had a good experience with Proflex sealant applied along the seam but opinions will likely vary on this. Others will chime in :-) I am actually wanting to re-cover my aluminum roof, it's not leaking, but I'm afraid with the heat in Texas, it won't last much longer. So, I am looking at the EPDM roofing membrane, or the liquid EPDM roof system... So I wanted to get some opinions before I proceed......
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Aug 4, 2019 19:06:48 GMT -8
Forget about those membrane or coating systems. PT is right. If your bare aluminum roof isn't leaking then just leave it alone, or possibly paint it white to keep things somewhat cooler. "Coatings" are just layers of expensive gunk that are unnecessary.
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Post by vikx on Aug 4, 2019 21:06:36 GMT -8
I agree. EPDM is NOT for vintage trailers. It's heavy, ugly and doesn't last. The guarantee on rubber roofs is 12 years and many don't last that long, especially in hot sun.
Roof goop also rots metal, so don't use it. (it peels within 6 months and water creeps underneath) I can outline the Proflex method if you have iffy seams. It is never a whole roof coating.
Also, I would research the build on your trailer. It's possible the PO cut some corners. Photos are the best proof of a good build. Otherwise, you might consider careful inspection and possibly lifting the skins in the off season.
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 5, 2019 13:54:56 GMT -8
I agree. EPDM is NOT for vintage trailers. It's heavy, ugly and doesn't last. The guarantee on rubber roofs is 12 years and many don't last that long, especially in hot sun. Roof goop also rots metal, so don't use it. (it peels within 6 months and water creeps underneath) I can outline the Proflex method if you have iffy seams. It is never a whole roof coating. Also, I would research the build on your trailer. It's possible the PO cut some corners. Photos are the best proof of a good build. Otherwise, you might consider careful inspection and possibly lifting the skins in the off season. Thank you for the info, here are some pics of the roof. The PO did a great job on the interior and I'd like to protect it. The roof definitely needs attention. IMG_5501 by John Hughes, on Flickr IMG_5500 by John Hughes, on Flickr IMG_5499 by John Hughes, on Flickr IMG_0198 by John Hughes, on Flickr
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 5, 2019 14:16:14 GMT -8
You really don't know if it's leaking or not unless you remove the roof. And by the time the leak becomes visible on the interior, it's too late... Then you have to rebuild the roof structure. That roof has had a lot of gooping. That tells me that there WAS leaking at some point or the PO would not have gooped it. But now I wonder if they actually replaced the rotted wood underneath or just paneled over the problem areas inside.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Aug 5, 2019 15:14:52 GMT -8
You might try some easy investigation for hints of possible leakage by pulling the interior trim from your roof vent and inspect the wood condition of the framing that the vent is fastened to. That trim should come off easily, and darkening in the framing will give you a hint for the reason for all the black goop around the vent. You could also pull a window and check that framing too. Make sure you have a roll of new putty tape for the window when reinstalling it.
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Post by vikx on Aug 5, 2019 21:06:33 GMT -8
That roof doesn't look right to me... the seams are too high and bulky. Not sure what is going on there. Just my opinion, but it looks like the trailer needs new roof metal. It is a fairly easy repair and goes quickly. Remove the J rail and roof metal, along with the front and rear sections. Inspect for framing needs and replace with nice new metal. The front and rear metal probably don't need to be replaced. The factory seams won't leak and you won't need goop, just new putty under the J rail.
Regardless of the great interior job, I suspect the trailer could have been repaired from the inside. That means that the lower sills and floor boards would not have been addressed, as there is no access from the inside. Are there any photos of the build/work being done? I hope I am wrong but we've all seen it many times.
The trailer is beautiful, so some of the cosmetic work has been done. Honestly, I would lift the siding while you replace the roof. Just a few more J rail screws and straightening the roof/front/rear edging to have a look see. It's not rocket science, and would certainly give you peace of mind that all repairs were properly done.
Thank you for sharing with us. I'm sure some of our information and ideas are not exactly welcome. Hang in there.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 5, 2019 21:56:56 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
I am curious as to what the deal is with that screwed down roof patch. It's right next to the edge, too. I don't like that. What's below that inside the trailer? Was that another roof vent over the galley, once upon a time?
Rod
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Aug 6, 2019 1:37:05 GMT -8
Id like to point out that the current metal roof is almost certainly original and has lasted nearly 60 years. No rubber is going to come close.
I need to replace the rubber on my 2011 camper, i gooped it this weekend to get through the season.
Personally id look at doing a 1 piece aluminium roof, actually i plan to, just trying to find a place to get the metal that isn't a 6 hour drive.
Yours will be easier since it was designed for a metal roof and it's smaller.
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 6, 2019 7:54:49 GMT -8
You really don't know if it's leaking or not unless you remove the roof. And by the time the leak becomes visible on the interior, it's too late... Then you have to rebuild the roof structure. That roof has had a lot of gooping. That tells me that there WAS leaking at some point or the PO would not have gooped it. But now I wonder if they actually replaced the rotted wood underneath or just paneled over the problem areas inside. He sent pics of the rebuild, and he did replace all of the rot on the inside....
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 6, 2019 7:55:47 GMT -8
You might try some easy investigation for hints of possible leakage by pulling the interior trim from your roof vent and inspect the wood condition of the framing that the vent is fastened to. That trim should come off easily, and darkening in the framing will give you a hint for the reason for all the black goop around the vent. You could also pull a window and check that framing too. Make sure you have a roll of new putty tape for the window when reinstalling it. I've already reconditioned all of the windows, pulled them all and all of the wood is good and in tact.
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 6, 2019 7:57:41 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I am curious as to what the deal is with that screwed down roof patch. It's right next to the edge, too. I don't like that. What's below that inside the trailer? Was that another roof vent over the galley, once upon a time? Rod The PO removed the heater vent because he wasn't using the propane heater.. his best option, I guess was to just put that patch on.
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doublet54
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Post by doublet54 on Aug 6, 2019 8:22:29 GMT -8
Id like to point out that the current metal roof is almost certainly original and has lasted nearly 60 years. No rubber is going to come close. I need to replace the rubber on my 2011 camper, i gooped it this weekend to get through the season. Personally id look at doing a 1 piece aluminium roof, actually i plan to, just trying to find a place to get the metal that isn't a 6 hour drive. Yours will be easier since it was designed for a metal roof and it's smaller. My same struggle... shipping costs for aluminum from California are $$$$$.. So, it's got me in a pickle. Trying to find it locally....(Dallas, area)
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