jbenini
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1976 RL-1750
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Post by jbenini on Apr 14, 2019 18:09:16 GMT -8
Greetings all, been working on my '76 Shasta RL-1750, seems like I've found and fixed all the leaks...but one. This past fall I opened up the rear of the camper, removed the skin below the window, fixed the rot with fresh wood, etc. etc. didn't pull the roof off entirely but opened it up enough at the rear for repairs, basically the beam right across the top of the rear window. New butyl tape around the window and the J-rail butted up against it ( has an awning right over the rear window), but I'm still getting some water on top of the window channel every time it rains (I haven't completely closed up the interior wall inside so its easy to see any accumulating water) So...I noticed the water is collecting on the top of the window channel right under the three center clearance lights. I've made butyl tape "gaskets" in the base of each light, made water shields over the holes tight against the wires out of Eternabond, made sure the drain holes in the bottom of each light base will allow water to drain out....and it still leaks. I thought I did a good job re-sealing the window. Anyone else had this problem? Am I doing this wrong? I don't want to close up the back wall until I know it's not leaking, but I'm running out of ideas. All suggestions appreciated!
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Post by vikx on Apr 14, 2019 21:23:55 GMT -8
Water can creep a long way. It could be the lights or something above. There are a lot of places it could be leaking, including the top edge lights. The only way you'll be able to know for sure is to run water over it and look for leaks inside.
Possible culprits: pinholes in the metal, especially the roof, leaking light bases, failed putty above, including ALL J and awning rails, roof vent and other roof features. The leaking is coming from above the window if it's wet on top of the window.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Apr 14, 2019 21:41:16 GMT -8
You might also wish to check the very top edge of the window. Sometimes they will leak some no matter how careful you try to be sealing, and especially working with butyl. If you find this is the case, tighten the screws around the window itself till snug... don't strip 'em out.... Then a bead of clear gutter seal run across the top of the window and down the side edges at the corners may cure seepage.
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jbenini
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Posts: 37
Likes: 5
1976 RL-1750
Currently Offline
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Post by jbenini on Apr 15, 2019 5:27:34 GMT -8
I'll get out the garden hose and see what I can see. I'll check the side marker lights, just re-did the J-rail and all the roof vents, which cured all the other leaks. Let you know what happens!
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jbenini
Member
Posts: 37
Likes: 5
1976 RL-1750
Currently Offline
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Post by jbenini on Apr 24, 2019 8:46:09 GMT -8
So....after further investigating, and nearly 3 inches of rain as a test, i have to say I FOUND THE LEAK!!! And fixed it! I started inspecting the top of the window frame where it nearly touches the
c-rail for the rear awning (yes, it actually came with a rear awning!) and started pressing on the skin gently with a popsicle stick, everything seemed tight, then I saw a little bit of water and some bubbles ooze out of the butyl strip I had installed. GOTCHA!! Seems I hadn't thought about the skin being so flexible, I thought the butyl would glue itself to both the window frame and the skin. Almost did. I loosened the screws, pushed the skin inward a little and caulked with Trempro 635. Retightened the screws and cleaned up what oozed out. Two days later I went to see what the results were in the pouring rain. I waited to install the new paneling just over the top of the window so i could make sure things were dry. Not a drop!! Problem solved, thanks for the advice guys!
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