Alaska Shasta
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1964 Shasta
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Post by Alaska Shasta on Apr 1, 2019 9:27:32 GMT -8
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n2hcky
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1967 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by n2hcky on Apr 1, 2019 18:44:28 GMT -8
Just a quick look..... The ground should not be bonded to the neutral. It looks like it is.
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Post by vikx on Apr 1, 2019 19:52:32 GMT -8
Alaska Shasta, I agree that the copper grounds and white neutrals should be separate in a trailer. Your box appears to bond the two with the metal plate. I would add a ground bar to the box. It's very easy to screw the bar to the box, probably on the left side. Here's a similar box: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/46795849444/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 g Breaker Box (1)"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7816/46795849444_ca745f0763.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="006 g Breaker Box (1)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/46604137495/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 g Breaker Box (2)"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7899/46604137495_e530533670.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="006 g Breaker Box (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Alaska Shasta
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1964 Shasta
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Post by Alaska Shasta on Apr 1, 2019 20:42:16 GMT -8
I was following instructions from a journeyman electrician. He is coming over in a few days to check it out. I will show him your photos to get his input. Obviously this is working for you, so you are most likely correct. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
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Post by vikx on Apr 1, 2019 21:31:39 GMT -8
You're welcome. Trailers are not wired like houses.. they are different and the grounds and neutrals are always isolated in an RV. That has to do with "hot skin" issues and also will trip GFCI outlets. Wonder how I know that?
NOTE: When an electrician wires your trailer, there's important rules that must be followed in a trailer. Below is info for a residential electrician
1. The grounds and commons are ALWAYS separate in a trailer. 2. Whenever possible, wiring should be run thru cabinets in accessible areas. This runs contrary to what most electricians want to do. The walls are only 3/4" and very vulnerable to damage when wiring is run in the walls. The kitchen wall will need some wiring thru the studs, but a lot can be in the cabinets, under the bed, etc. Another reason to expose the wiring is in case repairs are needed.
3. Across the ceiling is a good way to get from side A to side B. The ceiling cavity is more protected than the walls are.
4. Mount outlet boxes in cabinets, not walls. A sturdy backer is required. DO NOT use RV outlets!!!
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Alaska Shasta
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1964 Shasta
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Post by Alaska Shasta on Apr 2, 2019 13:30:21 GMT -8
You're welcome. Trailers are not wired like houses.. they are different and the grounds and neutrals are always isolated in an RV. That has to do with "hot skin" issues and also will trip GFCI outlets. Wonder how I know that? Where, inside the breaker box, did you connect the heavy ground wire that connects to the frame?
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Apr 2, 2019 14:45:45 GMT -8
Also your feeder wire to your breakers looks like #12. It’s only rated for 20 amps so be sure not to overload it by plugging your trailer into a 30 amp service. Your wire feeding the breakers should be rated for the source it’s coming from. Most camp grounds around here are 30 amp services.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Apr 2, 2019 16:36:20 GMT -8
I have been Camping in trailers for over 40 years. I have NEVER blown a fuse. I go Camping. I do not need that much stuff. Like a Microwave. Darn it. that’s not the point. All a breaker does is protect the wire. It doesn’t matter what’s plugged into it. The breaker is supposed to be the weak point but if the wire is too small for the breaker then the wire is the weak point and becomes an instant heating element if the breaker doesn’t trip.
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Post by vikx on Apr 2, 2019 19:53:41 GMT -8
Alaska Shasta, I run the ground wire up thru a hole in the box (many have a small hole) and attach to the same ground bar. Most ground bars accept wire as large as #4. I usually go with 6 or 8. The box in the photo was a demo for a friend to see how it should be done; the main frame ground is missing.
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Alaska Shasta
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1964 Shasta
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Post by Alaska Shasta on Apr 2, 2019 21:03:10 GMT -8
Here is the final correct breaker panel. Notice the larger 10 gauge shore power incoming wire, as well as the jumper wire to the second breaker. 12 gauge wires to the recepticles. Ground wires, and large chassis ground wire are connected to a junction block. On this box, there was originally a machine screw in the middle of the white wire junction block. This screw needed to be removed because it grounded the junction block to the main box. E5EB74D3-F8FA-40C2-AE9C-7F5EAF0616A8 by Bryan Port, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Apr 2, 2019 22:09:03 GMT -8
Thank you Alaska Shasta! Pay attention, people. This is how it's done.
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Post by youngbloodhawk on Apr 2, 2019 23:51:32 GMT -8
Ooh This looks so much better. This needs to be A flagged permanent thread.
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n2hcky
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1967 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by n2hcky on Apr 3, 2019 9:00:28 GMT -8
Looks like a proper breaker box you got there.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Apr 3, 2019 10:36:01 GMT -8
That has to do with "hot skin" issues and also will trip GFCI outlets. Wonder how I know that? I learned that as kid! Grabbed the door to open it up our Holiday Traveler and pow! My dad laughed and didn't believe me till a couple of days latter it got him good! Back then I don't think they had a ground? Seems like he just reversed the plug/polarity and that solved it. But I never stood on the ground and opened that door again. Never trusted that camper when it was on shore power!
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Post by vikx on Apr 3, 2019 11:36:15 GMT -8
Many older campers were not grounded, even some newer ones. My 63 B & B wasn't and had some serious electrolysis issues on door side metal. It is grounded NOW.
I'm going to lock this thread and it is already flagged as a sticky. Thank you all for your help.
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