oakback
Active Member
Posts: 263
Likes: 55
Currently Offline
|
Post by oakback on Jan 9, 2019 15:32:48 GMT -8
I ordered #6 3/4" stainless steel hex head sheet metal screws from bolt depot. I'm having a hard time getting them to tighten enough to deform the putty tape. The screws will go in, then spin. This is new metal, and 1" of new plywood, no existing holes. I got half the screws on one small window to snug down tight, and none of the screws on another small window.
Is it because they're sheet metal screws? Or because of the plywood somehow? How can I rectify this? Longer screws?
|
|
kudzu
Active Member
Posts: 344
Likes: 84
Currently Offline
|
Post by kudzu on Jan 9, 2019 17:21:36 GMT -8
Sounds like they could be to short. Just the tip is embedding in the wood and pulling tight, then stripping the wood before they get a good bite in the wood.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,817
Likes: 3,740
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 9, 2019 17:23:23 GMT -8
With new wood and new metal I don't understand what is happening but I can tell you that I use hal inch long #6 for brows but I use 3/4 inch long #8 for Jrail and windows.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,727
Likes: 2,866
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jan 9, 2019 18:43:11 GMT -8
How much of the 3/4" screw is reaching the wood? It sounds like your window and putty are taking up half the threads. If yes, I'd try a 1" screw.
I had the same issue with one window on a Shasta and a #8 screw worked but #6 the same length didn't pull the window tight. I never figured out why.
|
|
oakback
Active Member
Posts: 263
Likes: 55
Currently Offline
|
Post by oakback on Jan 9, 2019 19:37:10 GMT -8
I'll try some 1" #8 screws and see how that goes. I read bolt depot has a great return ploicy, time to find out for myself!
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jan 9, 2019 20:31:57 GMT -8
There's a couple of things that can cause this; the first being "self tapping" screws. They enlarge the hole just enough to allow the screws to strip.
I think 1" might work, depending on the wall thickness. Also, plywood isn't as sturdy as real boards and that might be part of it.
In any case, the screws must ooze the putty. Let us know how things go.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,817
Likes: 3,740
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 9, 2019 20:55:06 GMT -8
Vikx is right. Use regular Pan Heads.
|
|
oakback
Active Member
Posts: 263
Likes: 55
Currently Offline
|
Post by oakback on Jan 10, 2019 5:18:54 GMT -8
These aren't self-drilling or self-tapping, they're these. I'll get the same kind, just bigger/longer. My walls around the windows/doors are 2 layers of 1/2" ply and the interior wall of 1/4" ply, so with the total wall of 1-1/4" and the thickness of the window flange, 1" screws should be fine.
|
|
|
Post by youngbloodhawk on Jan 10, 2019 6:23:04 GMT -8
Wouldn’t wood screws be better in wood or am I missing something about campers.? Just asking
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Jan 10, 2019 7:00:13 GMT -8
You're not. The threads are too fine on sheet metal screws. Use #8 pan head screws. In the thin aluminum, they cut through just fine. Wouldn’t wood screws be better in wood or am I missing something about campers.? Just asking
|
|
oakback
Active Member
Posts: 263
Likes: 55
Currently Offline
|
Post by oakback on Jan 10, 2019 7:18:20 GMT -8
So much conflicting advice in various threads. Pan head, hex head, #6, #8, wood, sheet metal. I think I'll just buy a handful of each from the big box store and see what works. Then order bulk online. Ordering a bunch of stuff and waiting and then having it not work is really frustrating.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,817
Likes: 3,740
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 10, 2019 7:44:53 GMT -8
Perhaps you should follow advice from Face Book.
|
|
|
Post by youngbloodhawk on Jan 10, 2019 7:53:38 GMT -8
Perhaps you should follow advice from Face Book. Wow That was cold!
|
|
oakback
Active Member
Posts: 263
Likes: 55
Currently Offline
|
Post by oakback on Jan 10, 2019 8:33:43 GMT -8
I'm not sure if that's a joke or a dig, I don't use facebook except to keep in touch with family, none of which are into restoring campers. But from other comments I've read on this forum regarding facebook, your comment comes across as being snarky, and not helpful in the slightest. As for the conflicting advice, I'm just being honest with regards to what I read here. It's a great forum, but people have different opinions and experiences on some things. I don't have a problem with that, it's great. I try to read as much as I can and form a sort of consensus. Also most people don't build like I'm building. It's an experiment of sorts, I suppose, and sorry if that results in me needing to trial-and-error some stuff. I'm not sure what to take as gospel for some things, I don't know the credentials of one person over the next. If I'm being an idiot because I took one person's advice and not the other, then there really should be a sticky saying "you should use this, the others are wrong" like there are for things like build techniques, waterproofing, etc. Examples of conflicting info, making it difficult to make a decision: The hex heads are a great design when you need a positive lock on your fastener, with no chance of it slipping or jumping out of the slot. Nothing wrong with square or torx drive I actually prefer them to Philips style when making repairs to things. I wouldn't use hex heads for body screws; use them on windows, doors and trim. Use pan head Phillips for the body, as original. If they were 6s, stay with that #. I use #8 panhead phillips for all windows, J rail and awning rail. I use #6 for marker lamps, brows and other smaller things like that. [/div][/quote] I would (personally speaking) order about 1200- 1500 #8 X 3/4 stainless pan head Phillips, and about 100 #10 X 3/4 stainless pan Phillips. I personally like the look of hex screws, but my trailer had Robertson screws which are the square Canadian screws. Since I am doing a Canadian themed restoration I have felt like I should go with the robertson, and maybe just use hex on the windows My not-a-Shasta has hex all around, and I did what Ten posted - got a stock of #8 and #10 3/4s and I have them on hand whenever I need them.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,817
Likes: 3,740
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Jan 10, 2019 9:30:59 GMT -8
Yes it was a dig in response to your dig... Advice is just that. It's not a law. You are welcome to decide for yourself. I tell my students to build the trailers just like the factory built them. This way they can't go wrong. There is room for improvement in some areas and in those areas we improve our techniques and materials used. I can see where it is confusing whether to use sheet metal screws, because after all it is sheet metal. But the bite is in wood and not the metal. So whether you use hex heads or pan heads, they need to be wood screws. Not sheet metal screws. Simple as that.
As far as the "dig" is concerned, when you begin your question with an insult on the forum I think you are asking for it and I have no problem giving it to you. I answer questions every single day regarding the restoral of vintage trailers. Not just here but in my class as well. Most people are happy to have the advice and don't start their question with an insult.
I assume my comment or this thread will be deleted soon.
|
|