PT
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Post by PT on Nov 9, 2018 19:01:32 GMT -8
I'm pretty sure that every 50+ year old trailer has some sag out at the far edge where the wall meets the floor. The wall and floor on mine are still nice and tight to each other, but along the 15 feet of the trailer box there is a max of about 3/8" variation in height from the concrete floor it sits on to the top edge of the outriggers. For instance, the first outrigger on the front street side is 17" from the floor - the second one a few feet back is 16 3/4 - another 6' further back is is 16 5/8 etc... There is similar variation on the other side of the trailer - you really can't notice unless you get out the tape measure. The main frame a foot or two in from the sides is nice and beefy and solid as a rock.
So far - the floor/framing on this trailer is in good shape in most areas - so hoping to avoid taking things down to the frame. I think this kind of variation is workable but what have others experienced?
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forkzilla
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Post by forkzilla on Nov 9, 2018 19:32:29 GMT -8
I would be surprised if your concrete is within 3/8 of an inch of being level in a 15 foot distance. I wouldn't read too much into it.
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datac
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Post by datac on Nov 10, 2018 1:01:26 GMT -8
I doubt it was closer than 1/4" to true when it left the factory.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Nov 10, 2018 5:10:29 GMT -8
I would be surprised if your concrete is within 3/8 of an inch of being level in a 15 foot distance. I wouldn't read too much into it. EXACTLY what I was thinking. Concrete is FAR from flat and level.
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PT
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Post by PT on Nov 10, 2018 9:44:16 GMT -8
Thanks - I tend to overthink things and pretty much figured it wasn't a big deal - so glad to hear this feedback!
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Post by vikx on Nov 10, 2018 21:09:28 GMT -8
I agree. A person can cause themselves trouble by picking too much. I let the trailer tell me how it's going to be...
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Nov 11, 2018 10:56:57 GMT -8
I know from my experience building & restoring cars that when dong frame work I have to use a framing table that has adjustments to get the table top square, your surface has got to be perfectly level before you can take any accurate measurements.
I honestly think you are over thinking your frame, especially if you are measuring from the concrete floor to the frame, did you tank in consideration air pressure in the tires or a possible weak spring? Danny
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PT
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Post by PT on Nov 11, 2018 19:51:28 GMT -8
Yep - overthinking things is my usual MO until I do something stupid by underthinking ;-). I definitely took into account the springs/tire pressure. One side of my trailer sits an inch lower than the other and I can see the leaf spring on that side is more compressed which explains the side-to-side difference. New springs should fix that. My concern is variation on the same side from front to back where outriggers have sagged to different levels and I'm guessing also affected the floor level a little.
This relates to another post I had about wall bulge at the kitchen counter/sink area. I was concerned that a 1/4" outrigger sag in this area might translate into wall bulge at the counter area.
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Post by vikx on Nov 11, 2018 21:17:34 GMT -8
Outrigger sag is not the norm. If they are thinner metal (say 1/8 or so), they may have bent downwards. This is something I would address now rather than later. Our member Teachndad had bent outriggers as I did on my 58 Cardinal, so it happens. You could do metal work on the frame or shim to level things out.
I'm not sure the wall bulge is related, but it could be... I know the Loliner was a MESS from that saggy side and wheel well.
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Post by bigbill on Nov 13, 2018 18:17:08 GMT -8
If you don't have a frame rack then the next best thing is block the trailer up until the main frame rails are level in all directions this will take some effort and shims then establish a way to stretch some lines under the frame leveling them with a line level. You might want to do this out in the yard where you can drive stakes in the ground to stretch lines between. This will give you accurate measurements if done properly. As for walls bulging in kitchen area it only takes a slight sag to cause a bulge 40 inches up the wall. To see what I'm talking about take a 24 inch square and set it against a wall that checks square to floor now raise the end away from the wall 1/4 inch off the floor and measure the between the wall and the square at the floor that will show you what the cabinet unit can do to the wall as the floor sags. This most likely doesn't require a major tear down usually at worst the can be jacked back up and reinforced to correct and prevent farther sag. Shimming will solve the problem for a while but it will sag again unless it is made stronger.
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Nov 14, 2018 8:00:16 GMT -8
If you don't have a frame rack then the next best thing is block the trailer up until the main frame rails are level in all directions this will take some effort and shims then establish a way to stretch some lines under the frame leveling them with a line level. You might want to do this out in the yard where you can drive stakes in the ground to stretch lines between. This will give you accurate measurements if done properly. As for walls bulging in kitchen area it only takes a slight sag to cause a bulge 40 inches up the wall. To see what I'm talking about take a 24 inch square and set it against a wall that checks square to floor now raise the end away from the wall 1/4 inch off the floor and measure the between the wall and the square at the floor that will show you what the cabinet unit can do to the wall as the floor sags. This most likely doesn't require a major tear down usually at worst the can be jacked back up and reinforced to correct and prevent farther sag. Shimming will solve the problem for a while but it will sag again unless it is made stronger. All great points, and to help make sure the frame is square run a tape measure from the right front corner to the left rear corner and then switch around and measure the opposite side. If they are the same it's square. Danny
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PT
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Post by PT on Nov 15, 2018 21:41:49 GMT -8
Thanks for the follow-up everyone. I'm going to see if I can have an ironworks/blacksmith shop that does lots of trailer frame work to come out and look at things. With the skins off I can't get the trailer to them. If they're confident any problem areas can be reinforced without taking things down to the bare metal frame I'll be pleased... but if that's what is required it will be done right.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Nov 16, 2018 3:50:58 GMT -8
If the rigging isn't severely bent or cracked you can fix it yourself. You'll need a bottle jack and some patience. Just place the jack under the sagging outrigger and push it back into place.
Get a 16 foot 2x4 and run a chalk line down it, level the frame, level the chalk line and measure from there.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Nov 16, 2018 18:52:22 GMT -8
At 66 years old, my frame is a little bent, somewhat saggy around the middle, and not as strong as thirty years ago. I can still move pretty good, but I am beginning to look like an old geezer.
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on Nov 17, 2018 8:11:55 GMT -8
At 66 years old, my frame is a little bent, somewhat saggy around the middle, and not as strong as thirty years ago. I can still move pretty good, but I am beginning to look like an old geezer. I got a couple of years on you and I can relate, too many broken bones when I was young and that's starting to slow me down, but it ain't stopped me. HRP
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